More tips and pics

“i just though i would share a few pictures of the mountains and water fall i have been working on.

So far this is the best ones i made, im kinda new at this so i hope everyone enjoys these

thanks for taking the time to look

Andrew”


“Hi Al.This is the tower i did with the strobe light.And this is a transformer station i been working on.The transformer is a burnt out relay cover with window blind parts for fin’s.And used instant glue tips cut into sliver’s and clear beads inbetween for insulator’s.I’m doing a few more tower pieces and then hook lines up and such.Will keep ya updated.

Kim”


“Hi Alastair

A quick tip for you. Save the cedar liner that comes in cigar tubes. It is beautifully thin and is excellent for siding over card stock or plastic and very terrific for cedar shingles. A chopper works well with this stuff.

Fred”



Dear Al,

The box it came In.

The layout I had prior to this one I had a very long time ago. I kept it in the garage next to my Dads workshop. From there it provided hours of enjoyment for a number of years.

But like many layouts it became neglected, dusty and fell into disrepair.

On one memorable afternoon I came home from school to find my beloved beagle standing on the layout chewing its way through the small town and most of the rolling stock. I forgave the dog but it was too late for the layout.

As you can imagined this experience has somewhat shaped my approach to the new layout. I am quite determined that this layout not become a victim to vermin or dust. Thus “the box”.

Although the lid (pictured) makes the whole thing pretty heavy I think it will protect it when it is not in use and hopefully make it more reliable when it is.

The lid itself is 9mm MDF with some light pine framing to stop it bowing. I also attached couple of gas struts to the lid to help lift it up and down.

The front panel folds down flat to expose the control gear. It can fold either flat or all the way down for when I am working on the layout and don’t want to be leaning all the way over the control panel.

The black wire ducting is made from some sections of steel stud work. You need to be careful not to have any exposed wires inside the duct. I have also painted them black inside and out to provide a bit of insulation.

The steel studs are quite light and a fraction of the cost of an equivalent plastic duct. I think the studs cost a total of $8. The studs interlock so you can unclip the top plate to get access to the wires when you need to.

Cameron”


Rod’s been in touch again. You may remember his layout – there aren’t that many with an Italian theme.

Anyhow, thought his pics were interesting and worth posting.

“We had a trip on this line a bit south of Auckland, with a guided tour of the shops by a friend of a friend, very nice day out.

New Zealand Railways are 3’6″ gauge but the stock’s impressive, they have a 4-8-2 in use (sorry, parked in a dark shed behind a pillar) and several old British export diesels, such as the red Bagnall Dsa shunter shown, as well as the 4-6-4T in the pix, which reminded me of the old Tri-ang Transcontinental loco I used to lust after in the catalogue – only that, mind, I was brought up on Hornby Dublo! Glenbrook station itself is nicely restored, with working signalbox and a connection to the Kiwi-rail main line, and the train has open cars as well as closed so you can soak up the cind… err, atmosphere.

Rod”

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That’s all for this time folks.

A big thanks to Rod, Cameron, Fred, Kim and Andrew.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if you feel like you’re missing out on the fun, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





Model railway layout tips

“Hello Alastair,

After spending six decades in this hobby, I’d have to say my best tip is to think small.

Gargantuan layouts are fantastic, but for many of us they are impractical, if not overwhelming.

I’ve achieved my best results with the good old 4 X 8. When I tire of one, I simply dismantle it and build another.

Of course there are compromises due to the smallness, but it’s easier to wire, scenic, and operate the completed layout.

Admittedly, no layout is ever truly finished, but it is easier to gain a sense of completion (success, if you will) with the smaller pikes.

I’ll leave the huge layouts to the masters. I certainly enjoy seeing them, but I have to accept my own limitations as far as skill, energy, and finances. I also need to be aware of my wife’s interests.

Not really a technical skill, but it might encourage a few folks who are just beginning, or even simply needing to downsize.

Thanks for the opportunity to spout off.

Ray”


“Alastair – When laying track ballast (relatively large stones) for “0” gauge track, wet the stones in salt water first and apply them wet. After the ballast has dried, the salt binds the stones to keep them from straying and adds to their appearance.

Roger”


“Hi Al,

Here is a tip for you, I admit I got this one second hand.

If you need to remove track that has been glued down to the roadbed, and ballasted.

First pour hot water on the track, this dissolves the glue and loosens the track.

Leave it for a while, then start dismantling the track.

This works well for track renewal or replacement, also if you want to be Doctor Beeching and close a branch line.

Paul”


“Al,

I like to keep my train’s and car’s serviced, cleaned, and oiled about every 4 week’s. Even if I have not run them, and I have very few problem’s over the years.

It also give’s me a break from, my busy life & buisness. It is very relaxing, as well as good for the equipment. I don’t have much of a layout, but love to hear the trains run on the track, and change them up quite often, and just so they don’t get a lot of wear. Busy work I guess.

Love your book’s and information. When I retire, (soon), I plan to use some of your idea’s for a big layout, to keep me busy.

Thank you for all the information you share.

TP”


“My best tip, or advice, is to pay close attention to the prototype that you are modeling.

If you are free-lancing, then pay attention to the prototype of a railroad that resembles what you are trying to do. Study. Take photographs. Compare your trackwork and scenery to the real thing.

If you do these things, you will be able to create a more realistic model railroad, assuming that’s your goal. It’s certainly mine.

Brian”


“One way to make realistic wood piles is to use old wine corks sliced vertically into wedges

Dennis”


“hi allistair

here are some of my latest developments to my oo gauge layout my layout is made up with three stations and up and over .we then added a container base to it .also stead loco depot with turntable I will forward you some pictures of it along with the diesel repair shed

hope they are of interest

john”



A big thanks to John – look at all the comments below!

That’s all for today folks, please do keep ’em coming.

And if creating your own model railroad is an itch you just have to scratch, the the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al
PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the store.

They are great fun to make and great value too.

Barry’s new railroad layout explained

Seems Barry’s new plans really split the pack -so he’s kindly shared his thoughts:

“Al,

The pics included only represent a potential track layout for the lower level but are not attached as you can see. You requested that I explain my layouts design purpose so I will try to do so below:

1) It’s being built mounted to wall to still allow space in the room for other purposes.

2) It’s (2) levels to double the amount of layout in the same space.

3) The double track helixes allow the trains access from one level to the other that are vertically 21.75 inches apart. They also allow the trains to disappear for period of time (approx. 70.00 lin. Inches of track) on each end of the layout to add to the realism and also hide from view the turnaround radiuses which visually define the layouts parameters.

The helixes will be scenery covered mountains with visible tunnel entrances and exits.

4) The lower level will be an industrial scene with (2) mainlines and multiple sidings to stage extra complete trains to digitally called to enter or exit the mainlines and there will be several spurs to accommodate buildings.

5) The upper level will be a rural scene with (1) siding on each of the (2) mainlines and probably a couple of spurs.

6) The backdrops will be panoramic high resolution photographs printed to the required lengths. The upper is approx. 41 ft. and the lower is approx.
26 ft.

7) The upper backdrop and the train decks will be removable to access the electrical breaker panel and marked accordingly for safety and code.

8) Note that the backdrop corners are curved to create a more realistic flow of the photo backdrops and to avoid shadows.

9) All turnouts will be controlled by Tortoise under deck mounted switch machines with green or red lights on the layout control panel diagram at each turnout control toggle switch to indicate at a glance which way the switch position is.

10) The lower deck will be lighted by incandescent lights on a dimmer to simulate different sunlight conditions.

11) Stage II will be an additional 4 ft x 8 ft platform extending out from the center of the lower level to accommodate spurs and a (7) bay roundhouse with a powered turntable.

Hope this helps you and the viewers more clearly understand my design
intentions.”



A big thanks to Barry – can’t wait to see his next update.

That’s all for this time folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if you think everyone else is having all the fun, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the store.

They are great fun to make and great value too.