Model railroad scenery and track tips

Thought we’d start with a question that drives me nuts too:

“Good morning thanks for all the info so far .I.VE GOT A QUESTION FOR YA ITS. DRIVING ME NUTS WHY DO SOME ENGINES STAY ON TRACK AND OTHER FALL OFF ALWAYS AT THE SAME PLACE . I’VE RELAID TRACK 4 TIMES SO IF YOU HAVE ANY ANSWERS WOULD BE GREATLY RECEIVED, thanks again

Sincerely,

Ken”


“Hi Al,

I purchased a magnetic tray, which I can use for servicing my locos.

I can put the screws and other metal parts in it.

Result I don’t lose the screws and other metal fiddly parts.

Paul”


“Hi Al,

For realistic point operation, I insert insulated joiners about 18 inches leading into points on the switching tracks. If a train approaches the points, and the points are NOT set for thru, he train will stop at a realistic location before the points.

Its amazing how most of us use ‘junk’ and ‘REAL’ materials. Simple economics I guess !

Keep up the good work.

Steve”


“Alistair,
You have erroneously credited “Dennis” with the making Waves, when it was my artwork and submission about using the Silicone sealant, and expired credit card.

Thanks

Charles ”


Oops. Sorry Dennis.


“Hi Al,
Well this is where im at tonight. Looking to try and incorporate the turn table connected up to a shutting yard and a engine shed, but we will see how it goes, and with a 4year old helper (you hear her in the video) she makes the job that little bit longer bless 🙂

Shane”


“Let’s try this again.This is a diagram for relay and reed switch’s for signal’s:

(Kim’s first post here)


“Alastair,

Attached, I hope, are two photographs I think you might enjoy.

One is of a working railroad here in Western Maryland. My wife and I have taken this tour and we loved it. The foliage in autumn is beautiful.

The other is a steam engine, #777 that you may have to keep watered all summer long.

Enjoy
Richard”


Hope you liked today’s post. Please keep them rolling in.

And don’t forget to bag a great deal with the latest ‘ebay cheat sheet‘.

Best

Al

More layout pics and tips

“I have been working on this for just short of 3 years now. had a spare room full of junk so i made this out of it. hope you like it. any suggestions will be appreciated.

Bruce”


“Hi Al,

Here are some photos of my layout at night time.

I have model power street lights and I also have lights in my buildings as well.

I have no lights in my cardboard buildings, as they have printed windows.

With the other buildings I drilled a hole in the base and in the baseboard, then installed the light bulbs.

Paul”


“Sometimes it is difficult to get a radius just right on a curve, or the track springs out of shape at the joiners, or it just doesn’t look right. The thing to do is to separate the track joints a bit, about 1 to 2 inches, then solder the rail joiners to the track. Be sure to solder the track so all of the track will slip on one side, then it can be adjusted and evened as you wish. Don’t solder all of the track, just on the curves. Then run wiring to each track. The trains will run great, and the curves will be super smooth.

Craig”

“Hi Al.Remember awhile back i talked about the orange road flags construction crew’s use.Cut in strip’s like in this photo.I also painted some, came out fantastic.I used model silver paint and sturdy wire for post’s.Chain link fence.Even feel’s like it.You find this styrofoam white board in craft shops cut and shaped for road bed was easy.builder

kim”


Hope you liked ’em. But please keep them coming!

Dont’ forget the very latest ‘ebay cheat sheet‘. Really appreciate your comments on it.

Best

Al

More model railway scenery tips

” Al,

For scenery, I use Plaster Of Paris and water based paint, available at any art shop or hardware.

If combining two or more colours, mix small amounts of each until colour is good, keeping notes on quantities.

Make it a little darker than required. Take a small amount of Paris and start adding water to about the consistancy of milk.

Again, take notes on quantities.

Add the colour slowly so that the mix is darker than required, to the consistancy of toothpaste.

You can always add more black etc to darken it. Apply the mix to a test strip and practice makes perfect.

Don’t mix too much at any one time, the Paris will lighten the colour and the paint will stiffen the mixture, causing it to dry more quickly than normal. It can also be painted over when dry.

Steve”


“Hi Al,

Here are 3 photos for you.

1 Flying Scotsman at my mpd.

2 Atlas water tower with weeds growing around it.

3 TR 67 on display at my model Park.

Tr 67 was built by Hudswell Clarke for the New Zealand Public works Department. later taken in to NZR stock.

Written off 1960.

Paul Otway”


“Alistair – making waves.

Dennis wrote:

“The only problem is that the liquid last for some time and it takes time to gather enough to make some more.”

That’s why we have relatives, and neighbors.

Another alternative (for loners like myself), is to buy as many as needed, and transfer contents into larger containers… like 2 litre soda, or orange juice bottles or gallon milk jugs. No need to wait till it’s used up…

Here is another tip for making “waves” at the seashore…

Clear silicone sealer. Comes in a caulking gun style tube.

Lay down a heavy bead, then with the edge of an old/expired credit card, start to press it into the surface going away from the direction of wave travel. This smoothes the “back” of the wave.

Do the same to the front of the wave. When that is done for the entire length of the wave.

Start at the base of the front of the wave Dig the card in, and pull it up and in the direction of wave, let cure, then paint.

Here’s a diagram…


And here’s the latest from the talented Dave:


“The Tornado from Bachmann Al , i am well impressed with the markings , but not the bet of runners

Regards

Dave”

Latest ebay cheat sheet is here!


That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And don’t forget the Beginner’s Guide, if today is the day you start your railroad adventure.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.