Model railroad layouts plans

Henry’s been in touch with something that can be a bit tricky, model train signals.

“Hi Al

I just want to share this with you, as some of our other readers might have had similar problems with signalling.

On my layout there is a passenger station with two platforms, that needs to be signalled for operating sessions as the engineers needs to obey the signals.

I encountered a bit of a brain teaser when it came to the simple arrangement of 3 signals at each leg of a turnout or switch.

On the opposite side of my layout, the arrangement is quite easy, as there is a single platform, so a simple double pole switch does the trick.

Throw it to the left and it turn the east side home signal green and the west side home signal red, and vice versa when thrown to the right.

At the next station which is more complex, I wanted to use a similar switch arrangement, which also helps with interlocking, that we do not get to opposing green signals.

I then realized when the Home signal controlling entry into the station, on either platform 1 or 2 is green, I need both the starter signals on platforms 1 and 2 to be red at the same time.

To keep cost down, I opted to use only one single pole switch double throw switch to select between platform 1 and 2 to turn the starter signal green.

Another single pole double throw switch controls the home signal. If I simply wire the signals from the switches, I end up getting a green and red signal at whatever platform I select the starter to be green at, as there is a feedback from the home signal switch to both red starter signals.

Then it dawned on me, why not use the diode matrix system I am using for my turnout control for the model train signals too?

I quickly drew a table with the 6 signal lights, and the switch positions, and saw that I would need 4 diodes to control the signals.

I then wired the diodes into the signal wiring, and hey presto, all is working well.

(I still have to install the signals on the layout, but now the wiring is sorted.

I include a pic with the wiring diagram. Hope this can be of help to someone.

Regards

Henry in Pietermaritzburg, Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa”

Rob has also done a very helpful post on signals:

3 light model train signal.

Now on to John with this simple tip:

“Hi Al,

Spent many frustrating hours trying to carefully strip the ends of the very thin wires on LEDs and Grain of Wheat Bulbs.

I even resorted to not stripping them but just soldering them hoping the heat would burn off the plastic. Not ideal but it mostly worked.

Today I have found a solution!!!!

I got an old pair of nail clippers, the cheap nasty sort from Christmas crackers, and squeezed them on 3 different gauges of spring steel wire.

This created notches in the clippers which are just perfect for stripping theses fine wires.

Hope this might help any one else struggling with the same problem.

Best regards,

John”

“Hi Al,

I thought you might be interested in this video. I’ve gotten a good response with it on my channel I demonstrate how to add very cost effective signals to any layout.

The first few scenes are just me having a play with my new DCC controlled coaches/passenger cars. It is fun to be able to operate the lighting remotely.

I have heard from many that these easy to understand videos have started them to add signals and railway crossings to their layouts. It is fun, not hard and very rewarding building automated signals. There are many suppliers that will provide kits, but they are expensive. This method is not.
cheers,

Rob”

“Hi Al

Someone asked if the water on my harbor was superimposed.

Definitely not (I would not know how to do it anyway)

Here are a few photos of the water in the harbor.

Many thanks

Brian – the HOn3 guy – Knysna RSA”

A big thanks to Henry for his tip on model trains signals.

What a clever lot you all are. Some great tips today – and a big thanks to Rob, John, and Brian too.

Please do keep ’em coming, and if you’d like to make a start on your own masterpiece, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

Barry has sent in a fab figure of 8, step by step for any model railroad.

Some of you will remember Barry from years ago.

Unfortunately the pics don’t enlarge but I still really enjoyed Barry’s pics and narrative:

“Alastair,

This is a Lionel “O” scale layout that I started a couple of days ago.

It’s a simple figure “8” with no sidings.

I’m doing the landscaping with 2″ pink high density foam house insulation.

There will be no buildings but (2) lakes and I will add schrubs and grass. I’m trying to keep it very low profile for easy protective storage.

I put fold away metal legs on it for easy set-up. I’ll be done in a few days and I will send you final pics of it then.

Regards,

Barry”

Making rock formations for my figure of 8 model railroad, step by step

“1) Purchase a foam cutting “hot knife”. I think I bought mine from Home Depot for less than $20.00.

2) I use mine on the highest setting which is #6 on temp. dial.

3) Just let the hot blade do the cutting with twisting and reciprocating motions and occasionally changing the angle of the blade to achieve an unevenly cut edge that I think looks like real rock formations.

4) You can use 3/4, 1, 1-1/2, and 2″ foam. This shown with 2″ foam and that’s probably the thickest my knife can cut through. (enclosed is a picture of the hot knife That I use)

5) Caulk all the joints with painter’s caulk and let dry. Then paint the entire surface of the layout with a tan acrylic paint. (from Walmart or a crafts store—they are much cheaper than from a model train hobby shop)

6) Then using a darker shade of brown drybrush highlights on the rock formations to create depth and perspective.

7) Then paint the lakebed with an olive green color paint leaving some tan color around the outside edges to simulate sand in the shallow water. Then I use a flat black spray paint with just a few short bursts to give the illusion of deeper areas.

8) On this layout I only used a 2-part epoxy fake water from the crafts Walmart as I wanted the lakes/ponds to look like stagnant water instead of my normal ripples on the water created by the wind.

9) Last before the water is dry(approx. 24 hrs. add schrubs, fallen dead trees in the water and normal trees to the entire layout with white glue as desired.

I’ve enclosed (2) early stage pics showing the pink foam and the white caulk, (1) pic of the hot knife. And the rest of the pics are final results.

I also did not use foam grass on this layout to keep it more user friendly for the young operator.

Hope this help your readers to understand better and want to try it.

Regards,

Barry”

A huge thanks to Barry.

His earlier layout is here if you want to have a look.

It also reminded me of this post too: HO scale figure 8.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today’s the day you start your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

Dave has been in touch with a question that comes up alot – how to wire reverse loops?

And Bill from Virginia’s been back in touch – with another scenenery ‘how to’.

But let’s start with Dave.

“Here are 5 pics of the layout and a diagram.

Sorry for the mess but I’m trying to ballast the outside loop.

The problem is the reverse loops and how I should wire them. I have NCE as my DCC control although I have it running on the outside loop via DC right now.

I understand I need to insulate blocks or districts, but do I continue to wire the track the same within the district ( Blue wire on the north rail, white wire on the south rail) and use a module for seamless transition?

I do not want to use a DPDT switch if at all possible.

Thanks

Dave”

And Des has sent in this scenery tip:

“Alastair:

The dried foilage is the winter blooms off cattail plants found in wetland areas.

Des”

Now on to Bill – If you missed his last ‘how to’, it’s here.

Now have a look at how he gets the details into these trees:

“Greetings Al

I had a lot of fun putting the how to’s together for the pine tree build. I created a video for the furnace filter pine trees I showed a picture of in the ‘How To’.

I’m hoping modelers that give it a try and send in pictures of there results. Quick, easy and fun.

Best

Bill in Virginia”

That’s all for this time peeps.

Please do leave a comment below if you can help Dave with his reverse loop.

Please do keep ’em coming. My inbox is looking a bit sad and lonely at the mo.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.