Bill’s been back in touch – and he’s been busy adding to his HO scale benches to turn his 4×8 in to a 4×16 layout!
“Hi Al
I’ve finally made some additional progress on my layout.
Over the past several weeks I’ve been working in the garage building vertical storage on one side so I can add in the second 4×8 section of benchwork on the other.
I have the storage project complete and I tore down a tool work station that was in my way and now have the space for the full 4×16 layout.
This weekend I put the benchwork together on the next module. I now have it next to the existing section.
This section will have more yard trackage and more switching. I’ll start setting out trackage next weekend to explore some options.
I’m planning on having a small coaling yard, a small bulk fuel facility and a large old industrial factory complex.
As with the first section I’m going to do my best to make it look realistic and as complicated as I can in the space I have.
Once I land on the track plan I’ll send in an update
“Ok I know this should have been my first update but I got caught up in the paving side of things.
I am limited in design to my weird shaped 7.5 by 5.5 foot max boards (seen in the pictures below) with wall and hatchway for access. N gauge.
This time I have managed six sidings on the lower area and six on the first level, all are fairly small but adequate. All my track is code 80 Peco Setrack and code 80 flexible lengths. Laid as just a double level loop.
As I am continually rebuilding layouts to keep my fingers working I only pin down the tracks to my boards that are Sundeala (compressed newsprint).
Underlay I use already gravelled and fill in between the tracks with loose matching ballast, again not glued. For unseen parts I use standard underlay. With rebuilding layouts this means I can use a hand vac to collect the loose ballast to re-use. I even re-use the track pins if they are not bent. (Economy). I usually leave ballasting between rails until last so it doesn’t get messed up.
TIP) When laying track, always run your fingers both ways on every join as it is all too easy to not get one rail into the rail joiner and if you don’t you won’t find it until your engine derails. Best to get it right the first time. Also test your locos to make sure they can negotiate any curves or inclines, for inclines include a full load of wagons or coaches, adjust incline to suit.
Electrics are DC and I have two connections to each track which is adequate to ensure smooth running, always put them at either end of your sidings for best results.I link up eight connections (4 tracks) direct to controller at two points at opposite sides of the layout so I can run up to four tracks without having to rewire every time.
If you use the above idea also wire up multi-connectors in three or four places around your boards to supply power for lighting, street lights etc, again where they are out of sight. This saves a lot of headaches later and saves laying on your back and looking up at the boards as you try wire things together.
Where my wires meets my raised scenery boards I use the plug together connectors, this does two things, one, it allows you to wire the board without it in place and two, means you can unplug the wiring and lift away the board for easy access below when needed.
Points, all my points are within reach so I switch them manually. (Saves a lot of wiring in point motors).
Controllers, I use two Gaugemaster 4 track controllers four for tracks when needed, the other four control lights on the streets and buildings, meaning I can dim them or brighten them all to suit.
Hope this gives any beginners a few tips that can save hours of fiddling and frustration later.
Happy Modelling.
Eric.”
A huge thanks to Eric for sharing his multi level n scale layout – his latest creation is really coming along. Can’t wait to see what’s next.
Next, Dangerous Dave has been enjoying the weather:
“Hi Al.
Enjoying this summery weather when its too warm to spend in the loft with my Model Railway, Deb and myself set out with a picnic to have at the side of the steam Railway.
Enjoying the sun and a very large garden Railway… not sure if useful to members , but always nice to see some proper steam.
Gerald has been in touch with his HO scale wall supported bench work.
I absolutely love what he’s done with the door area – very clever!
“Hi Al, this is a 9’2”x11’ stand alone room we were using for storage now turned into a train room.
I inherited four large boxes of HO scale trains consisting of twenty engines and numerous chars of all kinds. This has been a winter project that I will pick up again this coming winter.
We get lots of snow then so nothing else to do. I’m seventy years old now so it’s down to doing this.
The lift out section is 48 inches by 16 inches and locks in place with dowels on each side as shown. I’m almost done with preliminary track layout. Will send picks of that later. Thank you for a wonderful web site for all of us to view and get ideas.
Gerald in Northern California.”
Now on to Dave:
“Hi Al…
Just loaded this video showing how I made some cheap loads for my Bolster Bogie Trucks, did it about 5 years ago, so thought it was worth showing again how to make cheap loads for the railway.
Also I show how I mount and use the Mobius mini Cam, as a few did ask after the last video how I mounted it to video going around the layout…
