N gauge layout – inside a drawer!

“Hi Al.

Hope everyone is doing well. How is the dog doing? I been messing with junk again. The old steam engine for farm’s or railroad is being put together with pieces of a tank model.

Have a bunch of things to put on it still. Not sure what I will do with it onece finished maybe sink it in a swamp or in a broken down shed.

The other is a log cabin deep in the wood’s. I used real stones for the chimney or fireplace. Will add black chalk around the fireplace to look like silt. It’s my first go at weathering sort of. what ya think?

Kim”

ho scale 004


“Hi Alastair,

Here’s a tip I figured out for wiring on my N gauge layout. I am building it inside a drawer under the glass top of a 30 inch X 30 inch cocktail table in my living room.

A problem I encountered was that since I had to pull the drawer out to work on the layout it involved disconnecting a whole lot of wires, especially if I wanted to flip the drawer over to work on the underside. I went to the local computer store and purchased a couple of those flat ribbon wires they use to connect components inside computers and the receptacles to go with them.

Now I can connect and disconnect 30 wires at a time by simply unplugging one end of the flat ribbon cable.

All the wires are color coded too so it is easy to keep track of their purpose, and the ribbon is flexible enough to allow you to pull the drawer part way out and push it back in without disconnecting any of the wiring.

I’m including a photo of my layout in mid construction before I started the plaster work. I’m using a digital camera to take photographs for the perimeter of the drawer and will use my computer to print them on mat finish photo paper to glue around the drawer. Then I’ll paint the landscape to match the photo backdrops.

Bob from Florida”

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“Well, seeing as how I am the least handy person on this planet, and cheap to boot, here are a couple:

Since my layout is in a permanent winter mode, I wrapped the plywood bases in white bedsheets —
It makes a a great “canvas” for laying down landscaping and a SUPERB conduit to run the wiring between the sheets and the wood – no drilling required.

The “snow” is actually a ceramic product: Duncan’s no-fire snow, available, among others, online at Amazon. You can paint or sculpt it on, and it dries to a plaster-like state.

More recently I wanted to add some ice-covered ponds, and as I dislike mixing chemicals, etc. for water effects, I went to the nearest drugstore and purchased a couple of ladies’ hand mirrors, you know, the kind they carry in their purses. I laid down some snow and partially buried them, feathering the edges with more snow.

But then I wanted a larger ice-covered swamp or pond, and here comes the cheapest solution of all: I headed to the kitchen, ripped off a good-sized sheet of food clingwrap (like Saran Wrap), painted the bedsheet in the colors I wanted to show through, and laid the wrap on top with a little landscape cement. You can make it smooth or rippled, and it looks great!

I hope these help.

Bill”


“I am new to this hobby and learn a lot by my mistakes.

The buildings you build usually are put together with super glue.

If you get super glue on your fingers and thumb, it will take days to get it off.

Solution: spend $3.00 for Nitrile disposable gloves, ten to a pack. (not latex, one size fits all.)

It will be the best 30 cents you ever spent per pair! Just throw them away when done.

Bruce

Fallbrook, California”

I just love what Bob is building there – can’t wait to see it finished. There’s been quite a number of layouts like this on the site now.

Don’t forget, to grab the Beginner’s Guide and stop dreaming and start doing. It’s a great first step.

And thank you for all the suggestions on the ebay cheat sheet too. Latest one is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





More tips and tricks

“OK Al,

It’s hard to find an inexpensive paint when making models of rolling stock or structures. (I am in Canada.) I have used plastic compatible automotive primer. It comes in two colours, grey Nd brown. The grey has a poured cement, or concrete, appearance. The brown can be used on buildings, bridges, and rolling stock. There’s a black equivalent which is used for people.

Assemble the building, use the aerosol primer paint in a well ventilated area, add the colour highlights, then let the thing dry. The primer goes on looking terrible, it drys quickly and is a thin film.

Using a highly diluted black ink and water wash and weather the model. The weathering will cling to the primer. Leave to dry, this will take a while, go do another modelling project.

The grey for cement can be done the same way. Using the black on people is best done painting a layer, let dry, then highlight the colours on the people, the black is the shadows from light sources.

IN ALL CASES, the priming paint needs to be PLASTIC COMPATIBLE! Not using this type of pain, the model will become a blob of plastic.

Next time, how to paint and ballast track and roadbed.

Geoff”


“Cleaning tracks and wheels – never use an abrasive. It makes tiny scratches which hold impurities.

I use Goo Gone on a clean cloth rag, for both tracks and wheels.

For tracks, stretch the cloth over two extended fingers. Squirt the Goo Gone over the finger tips, and rub the rails. Silver or brass, doesnt matter, the oxide and scenery goop and other dirt come right off.

For wheels I do the same thing. To be thorough, take the trucks apart and clean the wheels and contacts. I have both toys and expensive models. They all disassemble and reassemble easily.

Goo Gone has a pleasant orange smell. Seems safe enough. It’s really great on those damn sticky price labels. Cleans pine sap too.

Dave”


“Hi Al

I am not very experienced in the more professional skills!! I have just started however there are few tips I have learnt to date.

1) Cheaper items such as the Peco tunnel entrance is very cheap and once surrounded by scenery as per photos I sent earlier looks very realistic this is a few pounds only – see photo

2) Use foam underlay and fill in with ballast and scenery again as photos cheap and easy for the leaner but very realistic once down – see photo

3) Think about how realistic you can be within the confines of the layout i.e. how do passengers and cars etc get to the station forecourt? and how will the staff get to the engine shed?, paths should have purpose to be appreciated

4) Remember virtually nothing is pristine and perfectly clean in the world, think about dirt, weathering, weeds, rust, coal and ash was everywhere on shed, this is cheap and you gain experience quickly – see photo

I am working on a much bigger section now the main through station i will let you know the progress – so far so good and there will be many hours spent in the loft to get this right! again taking it from old Hornby platforms which clip together, which is fine but into a more realistic station.

Regards

Steve”

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Some nice tips there – thanks to Steve, Geoff and Dave.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





Geoff’s stunning layout

“Hello;

I came upon a product some years back that might interest our fellow modelers. My ex-wife and I had ceramic shop.

Duncan, the ceramic paint maker has this product called mask-and-peel. It is a liquid rubber that can be brushed on. Do not use your good brushes!!

Take for an example, a tank car model. Brush the mask-and peel on both sides of the model, let dry, then apply tube glue, and press parts together.

After the glue dries peel off the rubber, and using a sharp blade carefully cut off the excess glue.

You now have a perfect joint, no filling or sanding needed.

TC”


“Al

I have found that some sprues from plastic frets holding say gutters etc are ideal for downpipes from a reasonable distance and the small tags look like fixing plates for the wall.

When you vacuum up ( through a net like stocking material) keep it as it is ideal for scrub land and barren ground often found near the line side

Regards

Steve M”


“Alastair,

Cleaning Lionel tubular track: Simple and cheap and easy, and you get to run the train to do it.

I think many of you guys make this problem way too hard.

First, there are two types of things you want to remove from your track. One is oil and grease. The other is corrosion.

Alcohol will not remove corrosion, but it will remove oil and grease.

I use about 3 folded paper towels attached to a car like a gondola and towed behind a loco like a 2353 to remove grease. It takes a little while, but I am running the train to do this.

To remove corrosion, I put the train on the track and run it.

After a few joyful hours of running the train, the track has a bright, shiny, very narrow stripe on the very top of the rails.

Why would I want to clean all the corrosion off of the rails? The real trains have corroded rails which have a shiny stripe on top.

This cleaning process has worked well for me for the last several years.

No longer am I trying to clean rusty track with a wire wheel. A lot of my track is old and somewhat corroded.

I have 125 pieces of 072 that is about 80 years old, and surprise, surprise, it is not shiny. It is corroded, but still works well.”

God Bless

Bruce”


“Hi Al,

I’ve been watching your stuff for a while now and thought maybe you’d like to see some of my videos made over the past few years of my layout.

It’s a composite representation of the Short North between Sydney and Newcastle in New South Wales Australia using locomotives and rolling stock common on that 110 mile stretch between 1910-69.

In particular, I have re-created all the trains faithful to their consists at the time I was traveling as a kid up to see my grandparents on a variety of passenger trains during the 1950-65 period.

The attachment is actually of an early 4-4-0 12 class pulling end platform cars passing a TF class standard Consolidation class locomotive – the year would have been around 1915. If you’d like me to send more I have lots!

Best wishes and keep up the good work – I love English railways and used to have a layout earlier modelled on the LMS/GWR

Kind regards

Geoff”



Stunning work from Geoff. Big thanks to him for sharing.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.