It’s hard to find an inexpensive paint when making models of rolling stock or structures. (I am in Canada.) I have used plastic compatible automotive primer. It comes in two colours, grey Nd brown. The grey has a poured cement, or concrete, appearance. The brown can be used on buildings, bridges, and rolling stock. There’s a black equivalent which is used for people.
Assemble the building, use the aerosol primer paint in a well ventilated area, add the colour highlights, then let the thing dry. The primer goes on looking terrible, it drys quickly and is a thin film.
Using a highly diluted black ink and water wash and weather the model. The weathering will cling to the primer. Leave to dry, this will take a while, go do another modelling project.
The grey for cement can be done the same way. Using the black on people is best done painting a layer, let dry, then highlight the colours on the people, the black is the shadows from light sources.
IN ALL CASES, the priming paint needs to be PLASTIC COMPATIBLE! Not using this type of pain, the model will become a blob of plastic.
Next time, how to paint and ballast track and roadbed.
“Cleaning tracks and wheels – never use an abrasive. It makes tiny scratches which hold impurities.
I use Goo Gone on a clean cloth rag, for both tracks and wheels.
For tracks, stretch the cloth over two extended fingers. Squirt the Goo Gone over the finger tips, and rub the rails. Silver or brass, doesnt matter, the oxide and scenery goop and other dirt come right off.
For wheels I do the same thing. To be thorough, take the trucks apart and clean the wheels and contacts. I have both toys and expensive models. They all disassemble and reassemble easily.
Goo Gone has a pleasant orange smell. Seems safe enough. It’s really great on those damn sticky price labels. Cleans pine sap too.
I am not very experienced in the more professional skills!! I have just started however there are few tips I have learnt to date.
1) Cheaper items such as the Peco tunnel entrance is very cheap and once surrounded by scenery as per photos I sent earlier looks very realistic this is a few pounds only – see photo
2) Use foam underlay and fill in with ballast and scenery again as photos cheap and easy for the leaner but very realistic once down – see photo
3) Think about how realistic you can be within the confines of the layout i.e. how do passengers and cars etc get to the station forecourt? and how will the staff get to the engine shed?, paths should have purpose to be appreciated
4) Remember virtually nothing is pristine and perfectly clean in the world, think about dirt, weathering, weeds, rust, coal and ash was everywhere on shed, this is cheap and you gain experience quickly – see photo
I am working on a much bigger section now the main through station i will let you know the progress – so far so good and there will be many hours spent in the loft to get this right! again taking it from old Hornby platforms which clip together, which is fine but into a more realistic station.
Some nice tips there – thanks to Steve, Geoff and Dave.
And now a little help is needed.
The thing I get the most comments on is the ebay cheat sheet. Please have a look at it and let me know if there is anything I should add? I’d love to know.
That’s all this time. Please do keep ’em coming.