Rod changes a chassis!

“Hi Al,

Never done an entire loco thank heavens, the time commitment must be huge, but I have had to make a couple of simple chassis sort-of from scratch, albeit using commercial axles, wheels, gears etc.

The first was to replace a cast whitemetal chassis block in a loco kit which seemed to have been cast with the sides at an angle to each other, quite unsalvageable. I had tried sending it back as a complaint only to be told the pre-drilled axle holes were “supposed” to be breaking out through the bottom of the casting on one side “to make it easier for you to fit springing”! Yeah, right.

The second one was because a mate turned up with an old K’s kit of a GER tram-engine (like Toby the tram engine) which wouldn’t run. All it was, the body was a little low one end and the cowcatcher was fouling the rails and shorting out.

It just needed a little Plasticard pad sticking onto the chassis mount, so I did that, held it in place for a count of thirty, said “There, fixed it!” and whipped my fingers away – needless to say I had superglued the plastic to a bit of skin as well, and the whole chassis flew into the air, tore the skin loose, and fell to the tiled floor with a resounding bang.

It was one of those old K’s ones with the motor sides and bearings glued together and integral with the frames, so a total write-off (I couldn’t get the motor to run again properly, although I did try). You should have seen his little face, a proper picture, so I had to replace it.

The replacement was made from 16th brass frames, bolted together for drilling of axle positions and tube spacers, and fitted with flanged bearings, reamed for Romford axles.

The old chassis was a four-wheeler but the real things were six-coupled so I thought I’d do it right, although there was no point adding cylinders and running gear as they would be behind the side-skirts.

I used a Branchlines slimline gearbox/motor mount and a Mashima motor, and added little black ‘platforms’ either end to form floors for the driving cabs. For some reason, the model had never had a chimney, I think the real ones were just stovepipe-type but all I had in the junkbox was a cast one for a GWR King, so that had to do, capuchon and all. That was a bit of a departure from prototype, so I painted the finished loco blue and brown and moulded a little face onto the end in low-melt solder, sculpted with the iron and a bit of chasing with a ball cutter in the minidrill – great fun but wear goggles.

The photo shows the new chassis in the foreground, the reassembled old chassis and tidied-up body behind, and a Reverend Awdry book for livery reference!

Rod”

“Hi Al

A short video clip of my double headed Heisler logging locomotives running on my layout.

An experiment that worked out. Was not sure how to get double headers on my DCC system until a friend helped me out.

Many thanks and all the best.

Brian”




I always look forward to Brian’s mails. And what a layout!

Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

Best

Al

PS Want three times as much as content? You need the Golden Key. See what it’s all about here.

Brian’s logging locomotive

“Here is the reason for lots of power, double headers to push equipment through the snow.

I will send details later on how the double headers are set up on DCC as well as a video of more scenery.

Thanks Al

Regards.

Brian”

“Hi Al, as requested – an explanation on DCC double headed locomotives.

It is not easy to explain how to do a double header with a DCC system as there are many different makes available and each has its own way of setting it up.

I use the Lenz DCC system and have 3 hand held tethered controllers. One with a keypad and two with knob control all with display. I use the keypad one for setting up double headers.

With most DCC systems, one can run two different locomotives as double headers. (You will have to set the speed steps in both locomotives to be the same). You can also set it up the same way and have a lead locomotive and a tail end helper locomotive.

1 – Prerequisites for creating a double header are:-

# each of the two locomotives to be double headed must be called up on the same hand held controller.
# each locomotive must have a given command (that is changing speed, direction or turning on or off one of the functions)
# the speed step of both locomotives must be 0 when they are joined as a double header.

2 – Configuring two locomotives as a double header:-

First, call up the first locomotive (say number 2) and move it to where you want to couple it together with the second locomotive on your layout.

Then call up the second locomotive (say number 3) and move it up to the first locomotive.

In doing this, you make sure that both locomotives called up on your hand held controller has been given an operating command.

NB. Make sure that both locomotives are set to run in the same direction.

Control of the double header can be from either address (locomotive 2 or 3). When running a double header, the operation keys work on both locomotives at the same time. The keys that turn functions on and off work only on the locomotive whose address is shown in the display.

In the display of my hand held controller, an ‘E’ in front of the address is a single locomotive and ‘D’ is a double header with the address of the locomotive shown.

I say again that the explanation for double heading shown here is for a Lenz DCC system that I use on my layout using Tsunami decoders in my locomotives from Blackstone models in the USA.

This is a very basic description of setting up double headers. It took me a couple of tries at getting this right and eventually enlisted the help of a very good model railroad friend and expert at DCC installation and running to help me get mine right. He also gave me a “hands on” on how to do future double headers. But if some of you are like me, it will take me quite a few more tries to get it right.

I hope that the above will be of some help on how to set up double headed locomotives.

Regards

Brian”


“Hi Al

A short video clip of my double headed Heisler logging locomotives running on my layout.
An experiment that worked out. Was not sure how to get double headers on my DCC system until a friend helped me out.

Many thanks and all the best.

Brian”




A fantastic triple bill from Brian – I always look forward to his mails. And what a layout!

That’s all this time.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you grab the bull by the horns, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.


Ron’s corner tunnel

“Hi Al, just a couple of pics of the corner tunnel I made on my shed layout, I got the retaining walls from a guy in Bristol on ebay, he makes them from MDF and presses out the brickwork etc, I weathered them with my weathering powders in about an hour, really easy to do, I wanted access to my track for cleaning and maintenance so I bought a couple of those magnetic latches you get for wardrobe doors etc, it works great, I hope the tip is useful to somebody out there, by the way the whole tunnel and scenery cost me about £20.00 using scrap timber and scatter etc from my bits box.

Thanks for all the brilliant tips and information from some really great modelers on here.

Cheers Al,

Regards Ron”


Big thanks to Ron for sharing. Keep ’em coming.

Some good stuff on ebay at the mo – have a look at the latest cheat sheet.

Best

Al