Model railroad layouts plans

“Hi Alistair. More pics of the station area which is coming on now.

Still a lot of touching up to do, and always something else that needs doing; as you know it’s never really completed.

I have decided to make a small lake area in the middle of the model which can be lifted out and replaced whenever I need to get into the centre.

I have made some mistakes on this build, ie the climb for the train on the outside track is too steep for it to run without working the control, I have to speed it up on the incline and slow it down on the descend; however my next one will be bigger and better I hope, cos I have really got the bug now, this has certainly been a fantastic hobby.

A big thank you to everyone for sending in their tips, photo’s, videos and how to’s. There have been some fantastic ideas, will keep sending in new things.

Cheers

Stuart”

Now on to Grant:

“Hi Alastair,

Here is a contribution for you.

I am an N scale modeller from Australia

I have several small layouts that I show at our local rail shows every year. Currently I have completed a Small Coffee Table layout that is modeled vaguely on Germany/Europe.

My other completed layout (as much as any layout is ever “completed”) is a two sided Japanese layout, with one side being urban the other rural. I found this a great way to have more detail in a small space.

Mountains – I have a tip and trick for your readers. How I do mountains.

When doing mountains I do some things slightly different.

As usual I create my frame work using polystyrene foam, bits of cardboard or whatever is lying around. I then cover this in plastic fly wire (mesh) that I get by the roll from my local hardware store, securing it with tacks or a staple gun. To create my realistic mountain shapes, I use the following tools

• Plaster of Paris
• Cement render Tints
• Tin Foil (usually one foot squares (30cm by 30cm) folded into quarters. (15cm x 15cm)
• Wet Water (water with a couple of drops of dish detergent)

Once I have a good idea of the sorts of formations I want, I create as much as possible with the under frame to avoid unnecessary weight. (my layouts travel a lot)

I then mix up my plaster in small batches, usually three or four large tablespoons of plaster and one large teaspoon of Tint. These tints are available from your local hardware store and are used to shade the cement renders used in housing and concreting.

I use a chocolate brown for earth tones, and a terracotta for my Australian red desert scenes. I used a grey tint on the Japanese layout.

These tints make undercoats more effective, but also, if the layout is chipped and damaged, then in stead of a white showing through, I get an earth tone, which looks less obvious and more realistic.

Also, varying the amount of tint you use changes the shade of your plaster, which can create an effect all its own.

Once I have the Plaster/Tint mix at the right consistency I then spray the tin foil with the Wet Water.

I then place the plaster on the foil and place that, foil up plaster down on my framework. I then shape the foil to the contours I want, or leave the natural crinkle in the foil to generate a random pattern. (usually a little of both).

A batch of that size will allow for 2 or three patches at a time, so have that much foil ready.

It is important to note to do these patches away from each other, so as to not foul the foil. I usually work from each end and in the middle.

I then wait about 5 minutes for the plaster to set (once it is warm) and then gently peel the foil off, revealing a contoured area.

I then repeat with another batch in more small patches next to the ones I have created.

The foil can be pushed to follow the shape of the last patch, so each section is seemed with the last.

Also, Start at the bottom and work up.

Painting – To paint my mountains. I use a dark base coat, much darker than I want to end up with. I also have three shades of the colour I want, including two lighter than I want.

For example on my Japanese layout I used:

• Burnt umber undercoat (almost black grey)
• Grey (rock colour)
• Nimbus Grey (highlights)
• White. (highlights)

I start with a dark undercoat, usually watering it down so it soaks in all the little cracks, holes and crevasses the foil has created.

Once that is dry i use a technique called Dry Brushing to add the primary rock colour.

Dry brushing is a technique by which you place a little amount of paint on the brush, rubbing the brush on the palate to remove most of the paint leaving you with an almost “Dry Brush” and then gently brushing across the surface in quick strokes.

This causes the paint to adhere to the raised areas, but skip over the lower ones.

For my colour coat I tend to still have a fairly “wet Brush” but I make sure it is not running into the cracks.

Then I switch to my first highlight colour and do that with a very dry brush. You may have to work over areas a few times to get the shading you need.

Then I use my second highlight to just add to the very tips of the areas. This is usually a very subtle highlight.

This technique is worth practicing as it creates real dimension in your mountain work.

From there I would decorate with flocking, trees etc.

I hope your readers enjoy.

Grant”

That’s all for this time folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.

Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the store.

They are great fun to make and great value too.

“Here’s a tip for realistic country blacktop roads over foam:

First, mark the path of the intended route.

Then mark the edges with painters tape.

Spray Rustoleum black paint between the painters tape.

If there is a risk to other structures in the area of the road, mask with newspaper, perhaps held down with the tape placed along the road’s route.

The result is that the rustoleum eats just enough of the foam underneath to give a nice weathered surface.

Michael”

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“Al –

I realize that I’m not submitting an actual favorite tip … it’s more of a “lesson learned” kind of thing. Hope I don’t waste your time.

At one time I belonged to a model train club. Eventually, I found this group to be comprised of three categories of RR guys: Collectors, Modelers, and Toy Train guys.

Collectors all seemed to be quite egotistical, spending tons of money purchasing the most precisely detailed scale models, bringing their acquisitions in on club night under tight security and (perhaps) putting juice on the track to run them.

Modeler types were more sane, but obsessed in spending every waking moment gluing and trimming and fussing over minute details without running their trains every meeting.

I found I belonged to the last category – I was content to just put my childhood trains on a track and watch them run around and around. I do that at this time of year with a track on the floor; it’s all the thrill I could want out of that great toy invention.

So, the lesson I learned was that the three categories of train guys I had joined didn’t mix too well all the time.

Their goals are different, and when it comes to putting on the annual train show, one quickly discovers the hierarchy of the groups.

Collectors trump modelers and toy guys… only their cars are good enough for the public to admire.

Modelers are more respected by the public… they get the most questions to answer, about their clever landscaping.

Toy guys are at the bottom of the food chain. I had fun, but without having much track time. My trains were… just toys.

I still love them.

— Mike”

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“Sir;

I’m kinda a rookie all talk and no action but I was going to try and use diluted inst. coffee crystls for rusting or weathering train cars or buildings…There is a commercial for Advair the gal or guy is in a fog Something to create the fog on the surface of an area will give an aged look Still thinkin on that one….

Crushed eggshell feed used for raising chickens would work for ballast but it would need to be crushed finer some way I talked once about using rice barley flax for cargo and ground clutter even ballast My wife said I’d have mice eventually. I said thats why they make traps isnt it…..Traps would be good for someething….

I’m going to try sections of broken glass for water the underlayment will need some features painted or drawn first then the glass overlay. Shorelines will be a challenge

Duane”

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“Hi Alistair,

Mine would be plan, research, budget. It’s easy to be woo’ed by the amazing models and technologies, the craftsmanship and the cool factor, then go to a store or show and spend like you on drugs! We have all done it. With a solid plan in place, you can get the reward without the buyers remorse, and still be cool!

JB”

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“Hi Al

I took a couple quick shots from my new layout expansion. Not the best pics, but gives you a good idea what I’m up to. The foreground mountains/rocks are not completed yet.

Thanks for all you hard work throughout the season.

If someone is interested I’m happy to answer questions.

Regards

Matt”

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“Hi Al, Jim here from CO. I had a couple of HO layouts back in WI years ago, about 30 I guess. So I am totally new to On30 and have been waiting for information I sent for. In the mean time I have built my first structure for my Florence-Cripple Creek railroad. I can see the entrance to the old narrow gauge railroad from our home and have been up there many times since moving out here 26 years ago.

I am going to try to sent a picture of my Water Tank.

In the past 35 years I have built three full size airplanes, two biplanes and a 1909 Bleriot XI so I guess it is time to get back to my old Hobby. Thanks, Jim

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Some great tips -and pics. Please keep ’em coming.

That’s all for this time folks.

And if you think everyone else is having all the fun, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.

Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the store.

They are great fun to make, and great value too.

“i just though i would share a few pictures of the mountains and water fall i have been working on.

So far this is the best ones i made, im kinda new at this so i hope everyone enjoys these

thanks for taking the time to look

Andrew”

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“Hi Al.This is the tower i did with the strobe light.And this is a transformer station i been working on.The transformer is a burnt out relay cover with window blind parts for fin’s.And used instant glue tips cut into sliver’s and clear beads inbetween for insulator’s.I’m doing a few more tower pieces and then hook lines up and such.Will keep ya updated.

Kim”

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“Hi Alastair

A quick tip for you. Save the cedar liner that comes in cigar tubes. It is beautifully thin and is excellent for siding over card stock or plastic and very terrific for cedar shingles. A chopper works well with this stuff.

Fred”

Dear Al,

The box it came In.

The layout I had prior to this one I had a very long time ago. I kept it in the garage next to my Dads workshop. From there it provided hours of enjoyment for a number of years.

But like many layouts it became neglected, dusty and fell into disrepair.

On one memorable afternoon I came home from school to find my beloved beagle standing on the layout chewing its way through the small town and most of the rolling stock. I forgave the dog but it was too late for the layout.

As you can imagined this experience has somewhat shaped my approach to the new layout. I am quite determined that this layout not become a victim to vermin or dust. Thus “the box”.

Although the lid (pictured) makes the whole thing pretty heavy I think it will protect it when it is not in use and hopefully make it more reliable when it is.

The lid itself is 9mm MDF with some light pine framing to stop it bowing. I also attached couple of gas struts to the lid to help lift it up and down.

The front panel folds down flat to expose the control gear. It can fold either flat or all the way down for when I am working on the layout and don’t want to be leaning all the way over the control panel.

The black wire ducting is made from some sections of steel stud work. You need to be careful not to have any exposed wires inside the duct. I have also painted them black inside and out to provide a bit of insulation.

The steel studs are quite light and a fraction of the cost of an equivalent plastic duct. I think the studs cost a total of $8. The studs interlock so you can unclip the top plate to get access to the wires when you need to.

Cameron”

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Rod’s been in touch again. You may remember his layout – there aren’t that many with an Italian theme.

Anyhow, thought his pics were interesting and worth posting.

“We had a trip on this line a bit south of Auckland, with a guided tour of the shops by a friend of a friend, very nice day out.

New Zealand Railways are 3’6″ gauge but the stock’s impressive, they have a 4-8-2 in use (sorry, parked in a dark shed behind a pillar) and several old British export diesels, such as the red Bagnall Dsa shunter shown, as well as the 4-6-4T in the pix, which reminded me of the old Tri-ang Transcontinental loco I used to lust after in the catalogue – only that, mind, I was brought up on Hornby Dublo! Glenbrook station itself is nicely restored, with working signalbox and a connection to the Kiwi-rail main line, and the train has open cars as well as closed so you can soak up the cind… err, atmosphere.

Rod”

That’s all for this time folks.

A big thanks to Rod, Cameron, Fred, Kim and Andrew.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if you feel like you’re missing out on the fun, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.