Ken’s layout, step by step…

Got this in from Ken – and I’m always a sucker for the ‘step by step’ stuff. Hope you like it as much as I did.


“Thank you for all the great tips and advice, I have included pictures and a dialog of my progress since beginning my new layout in September.

I now live 2 hours away from Guadalajara, grew up in L.A. Calif. and after the service moved around a lot and now am retired in Mexico.

My new layout begun in September, it occupies a space of 13 feet by 13 feet.

It has been almost 20 years since I last had a layout, that one was in a basement room that was 30 feet by 30 feet, it never got beyond track laid and operation but was fun.

I am determined this time to get as complete as possible, this however now has some challenges as I now live in Mexico, and some things we take for granted as always being available just aren’t here or are so expensive as to be prohibitive.

With this in mind I started, the bench work is made from ½ inch plywood, the reason for this is simple, solid lumber costs more and is not kiln dried, so prone to warp and shrinkage.

I started by cutting up 2 sheets into 3 inch strips, these for the legs and bench framing, the legs are L shaped, the joints are glued and screwed together.

The bench work is L girder in design, again all joints are glued and screwed together, also in assembling the bench work I planned on 4 sections that could be separated as we are contemplating a move to another city and do not wish to destroy what I have.

The only part that remained from my previous layout is a bridge that I hand built as a removable bridge.

After 20 years three moves and subsequent time in storage it was in sad shape, this became the first project, rehab, that is done except new paint.

Then where to place it, the design of the layout and the length of the bridge made the choice easy.

I needed a way into the center of the layout and so one corner became the bridge central.

The main track concept is a main loop around the entire layout, this required a double track bridge, the bridge, and then up and down ramps to the main level.

Also there is a coal mine incorporated with its own trackage, this would also require another bridge, and then there is a loop on the main level connecting everything that needs a bridge.

The 2 remaining bridge designs have not been decided as yet mainly because as I go I think of different ways to do things, such as a lift out section with trestles.

These first pictures show basic benchwork completed.

Here the bridge is seen, this is the location it will be in, the height above the bench is 8 inches.

This section of the bench is 4 feet across all the rest are 30 inches.

This is the location of the coal mine, here I am working on the track layout. I have numerous switches from before, number 5 and 6, left and right, plus some Atlas that a friend gave me, these plus what track I still have I set to work.

I lost count of the variations I tried till I finally arrived at this one.

The considerations were, being able to pull empties in, un couple, run around, and push into appropriate track, number of tracks, length of tracks thus dictating length of train.

The first of many designs. I find it easier to lay things out full scale.



Final design, the sub road bed base is construction fiber board, after putting it down I ‘painted’ it with a mix of white glue and water, firmed it up and stopped the fuzzing.

Then after trying all the regular methods of fasting the track and visiting several hardware stores, and told every time, no, senor, I don’t have that, I resorted to a silicone glue and now all track is glued in place. After all the mine track was laid and I was admiring my work I made a nasty discovery, I had left out the un coupling magnets. Trust me I will not make that mistake again.

Here are the cars that make up the mine consist. The purple cars are from Tyco, that I have modified to meet my needs, I chose these cars because they have operating bottoms, and my plan is to have an operating mine loading cars and a point of drop off, the wife has suggested a coal fired power station.

The Shay is from NWSL, I bought it in the early 70’s, and plan to use it as the main motive power for the mine. The name on the cars is that of my daughter.

The pink insulation foam board is the base for the scenery.

Here I’m beginning work on the upper level, I had to make the road bed, I used the fiber construction board, cut on a table saw, 2 inch width, then beveled 35 degrees.

Then for the curvable pieces I used a band saw to cut diagonal cuts, all done at my local carpenter shop, they are friends of mine, in fact I helped them get and set up the shop. I create quite a cloud of paper fiber dust every time I do this.

Here you see the tunnel for the mine track under the main upper line, also what will become a turn table.

After I was congratulating myself on such a brilliant job laying out the mine track I realized I had no way of turning the loco’s around, so I came up with a turn table and then an engine shed for the loco’s also needed a track for car repair.

Here is the first attempt at what will be rock walls, I am using drywall compound and clothes dryer sheets over the insulation board. I got the idea for the sheets from an on line blog, works great and there is no cracking. In the background to the right is the ‘concrete pad for the engine house.

My tunnel portals are hand made from ¾ inch plywood, cut with a saber saw, installed using silicone glue, coated with drywall mud, sanded, and painted. May not be the ideal but it is what I came up with.

Did I mention the only hobby shop is a 2 hour drive from where I live, and if he does not have ‘it’ in stock, it takes a month for ‘it’ to get here, plus it is twice the cost of ‘it’ in the US, and it does not matter what ‘it’ is.

Also no liquid items can be shipped in, so alternatives need to be found, be creative, or plan a shopping trip to the US.




The tunnels 1 track, 1 road and the road, why you may ask are all the cars and engine still there when I am working on the messy scenery.

Good question. I don’t really have a good answer, I do know however that all will clean up and work fine.

All the mine track and locomotives are straight DC, there will be an interchange point where the cars will be left and taken over by loco’s in a DCC system.”


Wow! A big thanks to Ken for sharing. Can’t wait to see how it comes along.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.




Model railroad scenery and track tips

Thought we’d start with a question that drives me nuts too:

“Good morning thanks for all the info so far .I.VE GOT A QUESTION FOR YA ITS. DRIVING ME NUTS WHY DO SOME ENGINES STAY ON TRACK AND OTHER FALL OFF ALWAYS AT THE SAME PLACE . I’VE RELAID TRACK 4 TIMES SO IF YOU HAVE ANY ANSWERS WOULD BE GREATLY RECEIVED, thanks again

Sincerely,

Ken”


“Hi Al,

I purchased a magnetic tray, which I can use for servicing my locos.

I can put the screws and other metal parts in it.

Result I don’t lose the screws and other metal fiddly parts.

Paul”


“Hi Al,

For realistic point operation, I insert insulated joiners about 18 inches leading into points on the switching tracks. If a train approaches the points, and the points are NOT set for thru, he train will stop at a realistic location before the points.

Its amazing how most of us use ‘junk’ and ‘REAL’ materials. Simple economics I guess !

Keep up the good work.

Steve”


“Alistair,
You have erroneously credited “Dennis” with the making Waves, when it was my artwork and submission about using the Silicone sealant, and expired credit card.

Thanks

Charles ”


Oops. Sorry Dennis.


“Hi Al,
Well this is where im at tonight. Looking to try and incorporate the turn table connected up to a shutting yard and a engine shed, but we will see how it goes, and with a 4year old helper (you hear her in the video) she makes the job that little bit longer bless 🙂

Shane”


“Let’s try this again.This is a diagram for relay and reed switch’s for signal’s:

(Kim’s first post here)


“Alastair,

Attached, I hope, are two photographs I think you might enjoy.

One is of a working railroad here in Western Maryland. My wife and I have taken this tour and we loved it. The foliage in autumn is beautiful.

The other is a steam engine, #777 that you may have to keep watered all summer long.

Enjoy
Richard”


Hope you liked today’s post. Please keep them rolling in.

And don’t forget to bag a great deal with the latest ‘ebay cheat sheet‘.

Best

Al

More layout pics and tips

“I have been working on this for just short of 3 years now. had a spare room full of junk so i made this out of it. hope you like it. any suggestions will be appreciated.

Bruce”


“Hi Al,

Here are some photos of my layout at night time.

I have model power street lights and I also have lights in my buildings as well.

I have no lights in my cardboard buildings, as they have printed windows.

With the other buildings I drilled a hole in the base and in the baseboard, then installed the light bulbs.

Paul”


“Sometimes it is difficult to get a radius just right on a curve, or the track springs out of shape at the joiners, or it just doesn’t look right. The thing to do is to separate the track joints a bit, about 1 to 2 inches, then solder the rail joiners to the track. Be sure to solder the track so all of the track will slip on one side, then it can be adjusted and evened as you wish. Don’t solder all of the track, just on the curves. Then run wiring to each track. The trains will run great, and the curves will be super smooth.

Craig”

“Hi Al.Remember awhile back i talked about the orange road flags construction crew’s use.Cut in strip’s like in this photo.I also painted some, came out fantastic.I used model silver paint and sturdy wire for post’s.Chain link fence.Even feel’s like it.You find this styrofoam white board in craft shops cut and shaped for road bed was easy.builder

kim”


Hope you liked ’em. But please keep them coming!

Dont’ forget the very latest ‘ebay cheat sheet‘. Really appreciate your comments on it.

Best

Al