I was shocked when I first saw this: talented Dave has ripped up his layout.
I know, hard to believe, isn’t it?
Here’s his progress so far on the new one.
Leave a post below and let us know what you think!
All your comments on the ebay ‘cheat sheet’ are very much appreciated by the way.
Best
Al
“Hi Alastair,
I made this model for my sons last year. It is my interpretation of Tracey Island from the Thunderbirds which I made from about $90 of materials, and 3 months of my time.
I included LEDs and a rechargeable battery pack, which lasts 9 days of charge, and cost less than $15.
Planning is the key, do concept drawings, details and elevations to plan it out.
Then do a mockup of all the foam bits to make sure they will all fit together before gluing.
I use polystyrene foam as the main building material. It’s light, cheap, strong compressive strength and you can use PVA glue and acrylic paints without dissolving it.
I also used balsa craft wood, yoghurt containers, perfume cardboard boxes, plastic bottles, steel cans, pumice stones, seaweed, timber hardwood and acetate film for the “glass” on buildings.
I hope this helps.
I’m doing an 8’ x 6’ train model for them next with 3 loops, tunnels, bridges, elevated trestles, a boat harbour and a mountain peak.
Matthew”
“Something for people without a dedicated Railway Room. And as a change from recent articles on here, this is about Layout rather than scenery. My priorities are:
Get as much track as possible into the available space.
Re-use as much as possible; this means 50yr-old rolling stock from my Hornby 3-rail days, and old timber “that’ll come in useful sometime” except this actually did.
I’ve identified redundant space near eye-level in my 6ft x 2ft walk-in wardrobe: with sloping walls, which my head hits before my shoulders do, the space is unused.
I also realised the following:
From my train-spotting days at GWR’s Acton Goods Yard, I actually like shunting.
Small engines improve operability in a confined space.
With DCC, I could run multiple engines independently on the short lengths of track.
No circuit is required (or possible at 00-guage in 2ft wide!).
Hence the decision to build a 6-siding track, as below (this based on standard Hornby curves, flexi-track was used in practice):
Further maximising my track in the limited available space, I added some “dummy” sidings (adjacent but unconnected, just by cutting flexi-track on an angle) on which I placed my old Bristol Castle and steel-wheeled trucks as “scenery”. The track had to be built in two halves to get it into the wardrobe; the pieces are as shown below. [Inset shows how the track has to run clear of the sloping wall.] Note that, for added immediacy, the track runs along the edge of the base-board where possible.
Having no space between tracks for signals, huts etc, my only scenic options were as backdrop. Inspired by the Acton Goods Yard of my childhood, I photo-shopped views from Google Street-View such that my sidings to the left represent the main-line from Paddington, and those to the right the Acton Goods Yard itself (now greatly reduced from its heyday).
The finishing touch was to construct a backdrop panorama between the two siding sets: I decided to photo-shop from my holiday pictures, including the Tamdhu Station building on the old Speyside line, the Cambus o’ May Halt building on the North Deeside Railway, and shots of the Spey at Granton; these rendered surprisingly realistic by some rubber hedging material in the foreground.
I couldn’t resist getting Ince Castle in as well, so now have four DCC locos installed. And yes: it is possible to run all the trains individually, although it takes careful planning; which all adds to the fun and realism. But being routinely confronted by one’s trains at eye-level at both ends of the day is something I can’t recommend highly enough!
Robert”
I know – and odd collection today. But what fun!
That’s all for today folks.
Please do keep ’em coming.
And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.
Best
Al
PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.
PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.
“Hi Al. Update on making metal looking fence’s.
1 nylon road crew flag. Cut up to make fence’s or can leave it to look like the construction orange fence ya see.
And already weathered. Paint with crafter’s acrylic water base paint. You can wash it off. Make sure you rub with small paint brush all the bubble’s out.
Take metal wire to make post’s and instant glue them on.
The road barrier is made from plastic food container’s.and glued with instant glue and painted crafter’s paint.and for the post’s i used wooden match sticks.
Kim”
“Hi Al,
I purchased a magnetic tray, which I can use for servicing my locos.
I can put the screws and other metal parts in it.
Result I don’t lose the screws and other metal fiddly parts.
Paul”
“Hi Al,
For realistic point operation, I insert insulated joiners about 18 inches leading into points on the switching tracks. If a train approaches the points, and the points are NOT set for thru, he train will stop at a realistic location before the points.
Its amazing how most of us use ‘junk’ and ‘REAL’ materials. Simple economics I guess !
Keep up the good work.
Steve”
“Hi there, I run 00 H0 and I’ve found that the empty 2 litre plastic milk bottles when cut down on the ‘bulk’ part and sprayed matt black on the inside and glued into place make ideal single tunnel entrances, and the 5 litre plastic liquid containers when cut down and sprayed do the same for double tracks. You can of course join several together if you wish for a longer run
Regards
Derek”
“I’ve found that old cotton sheeting or muslin dipped into a solution of polyfilla or similar is cheaper than mod roc, easy to mold and dries a lot quicker than papier mache. You will need to play about a bit with the polyfilla solution. Also, beware……..it can get a trifle messy.
Kind Regards
Larry”
“Let’s try this again.This is a diagram for relay and reed switch’s for signal’s:
“Alastair,
Attached, I hope, are two photographs I think you might enjoy.
One is of a working railroad here in Western Maryland. My wife and I have taken this tour and we loved it. The foliage in autumn is beautiful.
The other is a steam engine, #777 that you may have to keep watered all summer long.
Enjoy
Richard”
That’s all for today folks.
Please do keep ’em coming.
And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.
Best
Al
PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.
