Another wagon load for your railroad layout

Here’s the third wagon load from Roger:

“Hello Al

Here’s the third of my FREELOADS – another one in the eye for those who would like to sell us wagon loads.

I guess you could make a log load by gathering a few twigs, strapping them together and dropping them on a wagon. But this, I think, is better. I’ve got an old wicker clothes basket which is falling to bits, shedding lengths of wicker and was ready for the bonfire. Then I thought a bit: –

– The width of the wicker looked to be correct OO scale for tree trunks.
– It was not perfectly straight, notched in places – just right.
– A cross section of it was the perfect colour for sawn timber and would not change over time.
– It was guaranteed not to rot for donkey’s years.

Usual pictures follow. I used a little handsaw to get a nice rough cut and glued the pieces together in a chunk after arranging them on the truck. Used a bit of sponge dipped in paint to colour the bark – more streaky and realistic. Often use chunks of sponge for painting (ex-washing up sponges – free – of course!). Particularly good for getting ancient brickwork effects using different colour browns and sooty black. I always attach loads to wagons with tiny pieces of Bluetack. Doesn’t mark and devalue the trucks, holds the load perfectly securely and you can change the loads whenever you feel like it.

All the best to you – and everyone.

Roger.”




“Great tips, everyone. Here is another tip that goes along with Peter’s idea of extra wires for layout expansion. Go to a local electronic surplus shop and buy a length of multicolored flat ribbon cable that is about one and a half to twice the length of your layout from one end to the opposite end, with the most amount of wires wide. (I think the most is about forty wires wide). I know that this may sound like a lot of wires but you will see why.

With double faced tape, secure the ribbon cable to the underside center of the layout length with extra overhang at both ends. At each major connection point, you can take a section of about two or three inches, (5 to 7.5 cm), fold it over and secure in a loop with a tie-wrap, then separate the wires as needed for making your connections. After making your connections, be sure to either use heat shrink tubing or electrical take to cover the wire connections.

Since the wires are colored, you can make a wire list of what colored wires are connected to things on the layout. If you need thicker wires, you just use adjacent wires to handle the current load. With colored wires, it is easier to troubleshoot wiring problems. I generally use the black and brown wires (together), for common negative track wires, with red and orange wires (together), for common positive track wires. I use purple and blue wires as my accessory ground wires. The other colored wires are connected to the various lights, track turnout switches and other items on the layout. As for the wires that you don’t use right away or have extra, can be used for later additions or expansions.

Happy modelling.

Toni”


“Hi Alastair, One tip only – NEVER buy used track or points – it takes a long time to get them up to scratch and costs more in the long run – the best and cheapest points and tracks are Peco from Rails of Sheffield.

Michael”

“My best model train tip: I model very realistic looking running lights for steam era locomotives, tenders and passenger cars using ball-head type straight pins. These are the type of straight pins typically used in men’s new shirts (but they also can be purchased at craft stores). The ball heads vary in size from approx. 1-mm to 2-mm in diameter, and they come in several colors including silver, white and black.

I add nearly perfectly round spots of bright green, bright red and white paints as appropriate (for right, left and marker) using round toothpicks with the points cut off to just the right diameter.

The really nice thing about using straight pins is that the shafts are steel, very rigid and strong and can be cut to length with wire cutters and inserted into the chosen locations in very small pre-drilled holes made with a Dremel, and secured with cyanoacrylate.

This little detail, often overlooked by modelers, makes a very big difference in adding realism.

Cheers!

Robert in Oregon”


“Hi Alastair…

I really appreciate your hints, especially because I am changing from HO to N gauge and creating a new layout. I am taking your hints to heart before I begin.

I would like to share a hint of my own. I found a great item to use as ballast for N gauge scale–finch and canary gravel. It is basically off-white in color, but has darker pieces in it. Being larger than sand yet smaller than regular gravel, it is the perfect size for such a small scale.

Anne”


“Nail polish remover is good at removing acrylic paints or when weathering rolling stock. Dip a cotton bud in a little remover fluid and rub the area to be worked on – experiment first time – the cottonbud sticks are useful for building projects or as pipes / loads etc when the dirty cotton is teased off.

Duncan”


“Four tips from the kitchen:

1) Remember to ask your spouse not to throw away the empty plastic spice containers. You can save them for loading scenic material in them. Just apply a new large label, (with material name and description), over the original label and use for shaking scenic material over smaller areas.

2) If you use the store bought microwaveable TV dinners once in awhile. Save the trays. The three sectional trays are good for holding materials when you are scratch building projects.

3) Check out second hand and thrifts stores for low cost muffin pans. They are good for holding small nuts, bolts, screws and other small components and parts while building projects or electrical circuits.

4) If you have a quart size cardboard milk container, you can use it as a large area spreader or as an open funnel. Just cut off the top part, then cut the container down one corner then the opposite corner. What you end up with is basically a ‘v’ shaped half container that you can use for spreading scenic dirt or grass material cover over a large area with a measure of control. With a pint sized containers, just cut off the bottom and use it as a funnel when you fill other larger containers.

5) In need of thin stiff cardboard for some of your buildings or signs? You could use the cardboard from some of the food containers that you buy at the market. (Like mashed potato mix or pancake/cake mixes.) Just open the containers and lay flat. Spray a thin layer of adhesive on the unlabeled side of the cardboard and apply the printed building material flat on the adhesive. Lay a lager piece of paper on top and press down firmly on all areas of the cardboard. When dried, cut out the printed shapes and assemble as required. You could spray paint the label side of the box with either white or a dark color paint before you cut and assemble the structure.

6) If the box you use from tip #5 has a clear cellophane window, you can use that cellophane material as window pane for your structures. Just glue it inside the window areas before you assemble the model structure.

Other ‘how-to’ tips:

For making coal loads; get a piece of corrugated cardboard and cut to fit the inside of your gondola car. Take a charcoal bricket and crush it into small pieces and powder. Take the cut cardboard and place it on a flat surface and apply a layer of white glue on one side and then pour the crushed charcoal on it. When dried, take the cardboard and tap it on its side to knock off lose material. and then apply another layer of white glue and again pour crushed charcoal on top of the first layer and let dry. You can repeat as you feel needed. But on the last layer you want to spray it with a coat of either varnish or plastic spray to give it a gloss sheen as coal has.

Has any one thought of using aquarium sand as a ballast around tracks?

Ton”

That’s all for this time folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the store.

They are great fun to make and great value too.

Roger’s corrugated iron hut

“Hello Al,

I expect you’ve noticed a recurring theme in my mails. I’m not a virtuoso scratch-builder and I admire those who are.

Despite my Scrooge-like tendencies I would pay plenty for their work and enjoy the knowledge that I have a little of their genius on my layout.

So everything I make from scratch has be simple to construct, look correct to scale and blend well with proprietary brands.

In a nutshell – if I can do it, so can everyone!

And, most importantly, I use the products of a wasteful society – unnecessary plastic packaging, broken plastic items and goods which by their nature are destined for disposal.

This is a rarer find. You’ll discover this thin corrugated plastic in the interior packaging of fancy tins and boxes of biscuits (that’s ‘cookies’, all you railroaders!) – also some large packs of sweets (or ‘candy!’) – but only in some of them. Keep an eagle eye open at Christmas when such things are about. All the pieces illustrated were found in these. They’re in perfect OO scale – know this because I matched them up with a corrugated iron roof on a plastic kit.

The O-gaugers are blessed on this one because wide ridged corrugated plastic crops up far more often than in OO scale. You’ll find plenty of card and paper equivalents (often separating layers of biscuits and sweets in boxes) which will match well with card built and print-out kits – like the excellent ones offered on this site.

The construction of these stores and out-houses is simple – as is the case in real life. So the pictures suffice to show it. This is an ideal first scratch build for those who have never attempted one because it can’t really go wrong. Here are a few tips if you would like them : –

– When held upright, the length of a standard match (with the business end cut off) is exactly the height of a single storey building in OO scale. Cut the tops at a slight angle to accommodate the sloping roof.

– After painting, wipe across a thin solution of matt black applied with a little chunk of sponge. This will accentuate the ‘ridged’ effect, add realism and make it look dirty. Wipe off quickly with a dry bit of sponge if you over-do it.

– Other uses? Great for farm buildings, out-houses and barns. Also line-side huts – to cover electric points mechanisms maybe? Outside toilets! Factory buildings. Coal yards and factory yards. Garden and allotment huts. Nissen huts. Domestic garages.

– The wood in the log-store is short lengths of wicker – split – like the real thing – and glued together in piles.

– The contents of the junk-store? All sorts of rubbish – broken ball points, odd bits of plastic, coils of fuse wire – any old thing, separately painted and glued in place. The wooden planks are little strips of my old enemy – the moulded plastic sheeting used to package chilled food and suchlike (pictured). The bases for the models are also made with this. A gift to modelling.

– The little office? Same construction. But windows and doors cut out to scale – doors and sign made of the old enemy again – glazed with its infamous cousin, the clear plastic packaging which once contained food. The doors and windows glued internally.

– Used superglue. Plastic cement is fussy about the plastic it bonds. Actually – I don’t care for it much at all.

– Not that it matters but the dimensions of the illustrated models are – if your interested: –

LOG STORE – Height 3.5 cm (at rear)
Length 4 cm
Depth 2.5 cm
OFFICE – Height 3.5 cm (at rear)
Length 5 cm
Depth 3 cm

– So all the buildings in the final picture were produced for not a penny (or cent!). Of course, you don’t have to wait until you come across some corrugated plastic. You can use the old enemy.

– And if, when you’ve finished, it all looks a bit rickety. GREAT!

Regards to all.

Roger.”




A big thank you to Roger. I loved it!

Please leave a comment below and share your thoughts.

Don’t forget the ‘ebay cheat’ sheet. All the comments on it make it worthwhile.

And if you want to get your hands dirty and get going with the Beginner’s Guide, it’s here.

Best

Al





The latest from the talented Dave

The more I see of Dave’s layout, the more envious I get.

Anyhow, here’s the latest from him:

Don’t forget to have a look-see at the latest ‘ebay cheat sheet‘.

Best

Al