“A few pictures of my n gauge layout. Originally intended as a retirement project I started it early and now it is almost finished.
I make no apology that it is not built to a particular era. I run what I like and mix steam with some modern diesel. I am sure the wrong locos are at times pulling the wrong carriages/wagons.
Overall size of bottom base board is 7 feet by 4 feet plus the small side extension.
The upper level is a basic first radius oval hiding a through fiddle yard for the lower two ovals. In addition on the lower level an end to end automatic shuttle runs from the station and off into a hidden area under the hills.
All curved track is “set track” and trains are analogue controlled. Where ever possible each building is lighted by led bulbs. I have added flashing red lights to buffer stops and inside a couple of sheds to imitate braziers/fires. About seventy lights are fitted throughout the layout.
Hills are formed with styrene sheets covered in “mod rock” and poly filler. The textured faces are formed by pushing screwed up baking foil into the soft filler to form the textured surface finish. This was then painted black and then dry brushed with two colour tones of grey acrylic paint.
I still have a lot more detailing to add – mostly on the platforms and to finish the lower level crossing near the horse paddock.
Three ideas to share. Some may be old hat but they weren’t to me so they maybe useful to some.
1. Soldering two pieces of wire together end to end can be difficult as, in my experience, they don’t stay still!! I found a simple solution was to use two pegs and a short scrap of wood to hold them together as illustrated.
2. Peco flexitrack basically wants to return to being straight particularly at joints and especially if they are situated at insulated rail joiners (not ideal but sometimes necessary). I discovered a way to solve the problem. I cut curves, at the desired radius, out of ply wood to use as a template. Set the track on the workbench and used panel pins (on thesides, not throught the sleepers) to keep the track in place. I then put a spot of superglue on every alternate fishplate, left it to dry and I had a piece of set track at the right radius that would stay there and I could trim to the exact length with no strain on the rail joiners.
3. I was doing some electrical work in the garage the other day with an incompleted cardboard model on the layout nearby, I noticed that one of the chimney stacks was lying on the ground – only, it wasn’t! I had trimmed off a bit of the brown cable insulation and it was the correct colour, length and diameter! My latest model has cable insulation chimney pots held in place by tiny panel pins which give support and hold them upright. A spot of black paint on the top finishes them off.
A big thank you to John and Kevin for sharing.
I think Kevin’s layout has bags of charm. And John drives the point home that simple tips work best. There’s lots more just like them, in the beginner’s guide.
That’s all for today folks.
Please do keep ’em coming.