“This layout is gona be quite huge when complete,size is 15 x 33 feet with 2 islands. I will include you a photo of my river span all kitbashed and scratch built. My very 1st attempt at a river span its 8 feet long.
I’m still laying track gona be doing that for long while LOL. I took a break from it for summer but plan on getting back to it soon. this is a walk around layout built in my house.most of my friends freak out when they come over and see it for 1st time at just the size of it. Plan is to also have 2nd level just for passenger trains.
And to give you more info its freelance and I’m incorporating some actual settings from my area. The river scene is the Tennessee river in north Alabama with that scratch built vertical lift bridge that csx and northfork and southern use daily. The layout will have 2 main lines,few yards, and long sidings to park long consist all analog dc for now because that’s what i have. May go dcc later on because I have about 20 dcc locos out of the 80 I have now. There will be plenty of rolling stock to fill the yards and run long trains last count I had about 450 peaces.been working on this layout for about a year buying inventory up for it about 3 years.
(images are clickable)
Here are some more photos of the MIDLAND GREAT CENTRAL JOINT RAILWAY.
I ballasted the the goods yard area with sand and grit from a building site.
I also used faller scatter material to make some track weed grown.
I used Pva glue mixed with water and detergent.
A word of warning don’t put any glue near the moving parts of a point it will gum up the point, but if you do hot water melts the glue, and the point will work again.
You have these sort of things in the UK.We have taken them and are using them on abandoned and working rail tracks in large groups. Sort of tour around. In the old days the track inspector’s used them to check out the track.But now they have modified pickup trucks and are bigger.
I been in a group who restored them to use on old tracks.Great fun and really boot along.they are called speedster’s.
Further to the various posts about wagon loads, for what it is worth, here is my method:-
First I lay clingfilm over the wagon and push it down into the corners. I then squeeze in a thick layer of ‘No More Nails’ until the wagon is about half full. Next I pour in the load. usually some scenic coal, or track ballast and tamp it down just a little. At this stage I cut off the surplus clingfilm level with the top of the truck so that it will not be seen. I then top up the load to the brim of the wagon and sculpt it how I want it to look. Finally I spray with hair spray which seals it all in place. You need to start the spray away from the model so that the load does not get blown away by the initial burst of air. I make the load quite wet with the spray, but it dries clear. I have been using this method for a while and so far no problems. The trucks do not spill their loads in the event of a derailment. The purpose of the clingfilm is to allow you to remove the load without marking the wagon. I have had no need to do this so far, but assume it will work.
That’s all this time, folks. Thanks for the comments on the ebay cheat sheet. I’ll keep updating it.