Another dose of tips

“Thank you for the constant info and images – all very inspiring.

Here’s an easy upgrade I have done on a lima 9400 – Add additional wheel pickups



The problem with these is the rail pickup is only on the front two wheels hence stalling on points and crossovers.

By unsoldering the wires from the pickups to the motor and replacing them with thin solid brass rod, additional thin flexible copper or brass strips can be soldered to pickup on the rear wheels. A huge improvement is seen. You can also paint the visible part of the pickups black to blend in.



I know most of the folks on this chat group are HO people. I like O and especially S gauge. My question is, how do you build an S and O gauge layout with limited space. Answer is to use the same track.

I built an “OS” gauge track and can run both S and O gauge on the same track with the same transformer. It allows me to park cars for simulated loading and unloading next to buildings and .hoppers with out the space between tracks.

Also built my own cross overs and dedicated Ys I can use an S engine to pull O cars and visa versa with a modified adapter. Laugh but I enjoy running both gauges on the same track.





“Is there anyone out there who knows the trick/tip how to glue those ultra-microscopic plastic people, that are supposedly in HO scale (via Woodland Scenics) that will make them stay permanently on a foam sheet (or any flat surface)? The feet on the people are so small, I have no idea how to keep them standing up (such as construction workers on a street or train station people waiting on the platform.) How Woodland (and other companies) can call these HO scale (clearly marked on the package and bought from E-bay or Amazon) is beyond me.


I do love the way you folk come up with these ideas and solutions – please do keep ’em coming!

Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.



33 Responses to Another dose of tips

  1. A little dab of rubber cement on the feet will help these little people to stand and also they are easy to remove and place somewhere else

  2. I am an n scaler and to mount the tiny n scale people I first super glue them to a small piece of clear plastic. Most will stand up by themselves on the plastic. When dry, I mount them on my layout with white glue. I use white glue on the layout in case I want to move them. They pop right off. There is also a product that remains tacky so you can move them around in the future, but I find good old Elmers works just fine. I do have to use tweezers. Fingers don’t work well with scale people.

  3. Try dental adhesive.

  4. WK

    I glue the feet of the people to a small square piece of clear plastic. I get the clear plastic from the container lids that my wife buys lettuce in. Since the plastic is clear, it barely shows. I even use this method on N scale people.

  5. I find that if small model people or animals are being placed on foam or a soft surface then one trick is to drill (with a very small drill) a hole up into one or both feet and glue a piece of thin wire into the hole, leaving about 7 or 8 mm showing. Push these into foam and people/animals will stay upright. If you move them the tiny hole left in the foam doesn’t even show, unlike glue.

  6. To WK.
    Try fixing tiny N gauge people in place, my only tip is using a touch of super glue on their feet, keeps them where you place them.

  7. In reference to keeping the small HO people standing up is to cut clear plastic (like clear plastic packaging from products bought at the stores) into small platforms just enough to glue their feet onto. You can move them to different places if needed when you get tired of seeing in the same places.

  8. I have found that a failry generouse spot of superglue on each foot is all that is needed and then hold firmly in place. Mine have stayed upright without problem.
    Good luck!

  9. My Christmas layout is a small layout with HO track to run On30 trains on it. I use small brads hot glued to the bottom of the feet, then just push the brads in anywhere I want them. The layout is made entirely out of Styrofoam.

  10. Hi this is what I do and it works real well, I use small amount of finger wax, the stuff cashiers use to count paper bills etc, you can place the figures a new here and are easy to move when needed.

  11. Hi If the surface is say gravel,grass, or sidewalk’s. I use a sewing pin with the head on it. And I use instant glue to stick the pin head onto the foot of the figure. Then stick the figure through.

  12. Hi Sam. That is a great mod. But true most loco’s have front wheel pickup and that isn’t good anough to keep the connection. And when pulling a load the front will lift slightly decreasing the connection. Thank’s for the great info.

  13. Hi,
    I use tacky wax that is made for this purpose, figures can be moved about easily.
    It’s also used to keep bolts etc on the end of screwdrivers to reach awkward places.

  14. Hi Al, my favorite adhesive is E-6000. It stays slightly flexible when it dries. For figures, I glue them to a small 1/4″ x 1/4″ or so clear plastic sheet. Then I can move them around at will and you barely notice the clear plastic. It also works for gluing figures in locomotives or coaches. If you want to remove them, just pull and the glue will give. You then can rub off the excess and you would never know it had been there. Rob

  15. You sure do have a lot of great tips. I print out most of them for future use. Keep up the great work. I do appreciate them and enjoy reading every one.

  16. Use glue dots bought at any art store (Hobby Lobby). They can be moved and the dot easily removed. I also use them to hold window glass in.

  17. WK,

    I ran across a similar situation when I wanted to add a scale Nativity scene to the front of the church on my Christmas layout. My solution was to crazy glue the figures to a single clear piece of plastic cut from the packaging and sprinkle modeling snow to match the rest of the scenery. Blended in seamlessly.
    Paul Y.

  18. Easiest way to fix people to foam. Is to use clear plastic (the type used in windows of boxes for plastic kits) paper hole punch disks out. And contact glue them to the disks. All you have to do then is PVA glue the people to the foam this stops the contact adhesive from melting the foam. I found this was the best way to solve this problem. This works with 00(ho) and N gauges.

  19. I really have nothing to add but want to thank everybody for the great tips some of which are new to me and of great help with mounting my figures.

  20. There,s a lot of us about! N gauge that is We don,t have the advantage of a loft (or attic) nor a shed in the garden.No we live in a flat , so all our railway building has to be done on the kitchen table ( subject to “her in charge”s authorisation .So I have elected to build my layout in “billy” bookcases.
    So far its been “where do we put the books ? and having to clear everything away after each session..But keep on keeping is my moto so far its been just 1 year of progress, several of backslipping but who knows ? One day it will be finished,…..HA HA

  21. I dribble a little super glue into a jar-lid and dip the little people’s feet into it, after which they are placed with tweezers onto their locations, which – of course – have to be flat. Holding them steady for about 10 secs. is sufficient for the glue to set. I work in N Gauge and it works a treat.
    Try it

  22. wow wotta great post today Alistair
    sooo much info
    yup the loco modification is awsome
    dude the O and S gauge mods are badaazzzz…always thought it was a great idea to MIX the to ‘same’ guages on one layout….and dont know why other guys havent gotten into it…great mods….
    and as for the little peoples feets….
    rubber glue and/or the small pieces of plastic works good for me….

  23. I have a similair problem, but with a hornby 0-4-0, it loves stalling on an Atlas crossover.

    There another loco shunts the wagons over the crossover, then the little loco shunts the wagons to their final destination.

  24. I use blue tac. Get a small piece of blue tac & rub it with your fingers to get pliable. This makes it sticky & put on the underside feet of the people. The good thing with blue tac is they are easily removed if you want to change the scene without destroying the foam bed or item.

  25. I use my best set of tweezers and regular plastic cement which works on rough surfaces better.

  26. You could probably try double decking with suitable landscaping – hilly terrain, etc.

  27. Sorry my response was to Joseph – to make use of available space or overcome space constraint –
    You could probably try double decking with suitable landscaping – hilly terrain, etc.

  28. To WK
    I have an N Scale setup. Small people, big finger, big problem. I spray paper in various colors ,depending where the little guys are to go. Then hole punch in different piles and with tweezers and superglue put them on the little disc. after a while a dab of PVA glue on the bottom and place them where you want and bob,s your uncle.
    Cheers Werner

  29. Hi all the little people wanting to stay upright : trick I use is to” araldite” a small dressmakers pin to eachj figure: keep them pushed into a pice of blue styrafoam and when you want to place them on your foam layout just push them in they will stay pit as pin is as long or longer and acts as a ballance. Hope that helps and they leave hardly a mark when you want to re arrange them for a change maybe to fool the Grandkids for a bit of fun

  30. I have had good success with rubber cement. It is not permanent so people can be moved, and does not damage the people. I work in Z, so good tweezers are a must !

  31. Hi Guys/Gals:
    To place any size figures be they people, animals, buildings etc.-please try “Liquid Nails Adhesive” clear 100% silicone adhesive found at most stores like “ACE” “Home Depot”, “Sears” and “Lowes'”. When you dab a bit on the base or feet it will stay/stand in place until you do something else with it. It is waterproof flexible sets in 6 hrs and cures in 16 hrs so says the label. Never timed it-never a need to. To keep your fingers clean-use toothpicks to keep the adhesive down where you want it to adhere. Also WD-40 will keep your fingers clean by putting it on a cloth or old sock and wipe your soiled areas clean. Has worked for me several years. Good gluing y’all.

    Harold Jr. Grand Prairie, TX USA

  32. Most craft stores have cleat sticky dots in two sizes or sticky glue both are clear and come off easy

  33. Dear WK:
    I don’t know what you have for glue where you live. In Canada’s elementary schools, we use a thick, white, and fluid (it spreads) glue. When it finally sets, the WHITE becomes TRANSPARENT.
    In other words, the glob of glue forms a base for the HO person. The bottom of the glob that surrounds those tiny feet takes the shape of whatever shape is beneath them.
    IF you want the base’ bottom to be flat, THEN pour the glue onto a flat surface.
    IF you want to keep those feet in/on a base, THEN pour the glue onto Vaseline (any non-stick material) in order to lift off the miniature WITH A BASE.
    Realize that the miniature can be glued to the layout table, but why struggle to move it someday?
    Likewise, to have a worker on a slope, glob the glue and TIP THE WORKER.
    Similarly, to have a statue atop a “bumpy” terrain, simply glob the figure atop the actual “bump,” OR atop a duplicate “bump.” Either way, the little guy will stand.

    The significant end result is its tell-taless CLARITY.

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