DCC bus wiring – Barry’s

Barry’s DCC bus wiring has to be seen to be believed:

“Hi Al, after seeing Cameron’s article, I decide to send in some photos of my test track.

I have to clean out my double garage (9M x 6M), to make room for my track, so I only have a test track at the moment.

I decided to use Digitrax DCC equipment, which is why I built the test track (8′ x 2′), so that I could get all the equipment to work with the computer software.

I tried JMRI initially, but found it too hard to work out, so went with Rocrail (both programs are free).

I have since bought Train Controller Gold, as this will give me better control in the future.

The reason my wiring is fairly neat, is because I am an “A class electrician”, and I am used to working with higher voltages than 16v, and I was taught as an apprentice to be neat and tidy (and it is a habit I cannot change).

The photo of the steam engine was taken from my back door, and they try and run the steam engines when the weather permits.

The town I was born and grew up in is called Goolwa (in South Australia, and I still live there), is home to Australia’s FIRST railway line in 1854.

This was built to transport river goods (Goolwa is on the River Murray, near its mouth), to a place called Middleton (on the Southern Ocean). When I start on my bigger layout, I will keep you posted on my progress.

Barry”

steam engine

dcc bus wiring

dcc bus wiring

dcc bus wiring

dcc wiring

dcc wiring

dcc wiring



dcc wiring

dcc wiring

dcc wiring

A big thanks to Barry and my word! That’s the neatest wiring I have ever seen.

Now on to Bill:

“Mr. Lee, Check this out if you have not seen this before I think you will enjoy. Located in Lethbridge, Alberta Canada. I stumbled on this on the way to Calgary a couple years ago.

Bill”

train bridge

“Al;

The other day out in my garage where the doggie is I noticed some white stuff like stuffing on garage floor. Come to find out its from a pillow my son thru away and he missed the trash can………..Immediately I thought about snow drifts areas that linger from not getting enough sun exposure…..sheltered areas….gullies fencelines…etc. I dont think it would work for larger areas of snow cover but who knows It probably would if there werent plans for alot of other scenery….

Just wanted to share SO check old pillows before they hit the dumpster, trash truck…..

DG”

“Al,

I’ve been away from the model railroading hobby for several years due to it becoming less important than other things in my life, so I’m not up on the latest available technology. But I’m beginning to think it’s time to get back to a hobby I’ve had since I was a kid (I’m 56 now).

I always ran my trains to what I perceived as scale speed, but alas, some throttle packs don’t do well at slow speeds. Yet, others do. There are several factors that affect the ability to operate the models at near-scale speeds, such as condition of the motors, cleanliness of the track and the powered trucks’ wheels, weight of the train, and the throttle’s potentiometer (throttle).

Aside from those kinds of things, there’s the scale itself; the smaller the scale the harder it is to achieve scale movements. This is because, while we have succeeded in reducing the scale of the railroad world with amazing detail, we can never reduce the scale of their molecular structures! The laws of physics cannot be denied! But, as control and materials technologies progress, better control at slower speeds may be achieved.

I applaud someone drawing attention to this aspect of the art. I’ve observed realistic-looking layouts operated at unrealistic speeds, but also many of the same genre operated with very good realism. I suppose it comes down to a matter of what the layout owner decides is acceptable. And that’s okay.

But for those of us who pursue the finer aspects of the art of model railroading, this is a great point of discussion. Thank you for bringing this to our attention. I really appreciate your daily communications.

Russ”

Thanks to everyone for today’s missive.

Hope you enjoyed it as much as me.

And if your head is spinning at just how much goes in to a layout, it’s all made simple and easy here.

Best

Al

PS Latest Ebay cheat is here




Model railroad turnouts – Cameron’s

Cameron has put together an excellent ‘how to’ on model railroad turnouts:

“Dear Al,

It’s been a while since my last post.

I have spent a lot of time over the last couple of months lying under the layout with wire cutters in one hand and a soldering iron in the other. There is now a big mess of wires under table that reflect a lack of planning on my part. I bit embarrassing but part of the process.

Following is a couple of tips on electrifying points on a layout that might be of use to a few of your readers.

Turnouts and Motors

Before I laid the track I drilled holes in the right locations for the point switch rods. I would do this again regardless of whether I planed to electrify the points or not. You never know how hooked you are going to get on this hobby.

I used Peco turnout motors which have been quite good. Rather than using the propriety plastic adapters I simply bent out the fixing prongs to act as a fixing lug. Perhaps a bit rough but a lot of modelers seem to use this method.

They all run off a 4amp 14v power supply which is not at the top end for this type of point but has been reliable.

Lining up the point motors under the track for reliable operation is one of the more difficult parts of the process. I did however find a pretty good process worth sharing.

1. I drilled two small holes through the top of the layout at each end of the plastic switch operating slide. These holes have two purposes. They provide a reliable guide marker under the table and, if drilled at the right spacing can be used to screw the point motor in place from under the table.

2. I set the point in the central position and held it in place with two tooth picks.

3. Working now from under the layout I lined up the motor so that the motor pin was in the middle ( evenly spaced) from each motor magnet.

4. The motors were screwed in place with a couple of screws and washers.

5. Remove the tooth picks and you should have a well aligned motor.

For me this method took a lot of the guess work out of the process of positioning the motor and ensured a lot less adjustment was needed to get them all working.

The other aspect of the point automation I thought was worth mentioning was the Mimic Panel. I made this out of a few electrical project boxes bolted together to form up a nice long panel. For the diagram I took inspiration from the London Underground maps. This type of graphic is really easy to read and looks good in colour.

The diagram was printed on paper and mounted on the face of the mimic panel under a sheet of clear acrylic/lexon.

Thats all for now. I will send through a post on the lighting next.

Cheers,

Cameron.

Model railroad turnouts

Model railroad turnouts wiring

Model railroad turnouts wiring

Model railroad turnouts wiring



After the points were in place I decided that I wanted to light the layout.

A previous post, I think from Arnie, pointed me in the right direction with regards to how to control the lighting.

I wanted to have a lighting control dial that I could turn to different times of the day with each position of the dial turning on a different combination of lights. This is how I set it up.

Positioning the lights:

I fixed the lights in place from under the layout so I could take them out and change them without ripping up any of the buildings to do so.

I came up with this cheap fixing method that has worked pretty well.

I first drilled holes for each light before the buildings were fixed in place.

I then made a wire bracket from fencing wire (coat hanger wire would also be fine) that would hold the light in place but be fixed from under the table.

The below diagram and photo better describes this arrangement.

Cam”

Very smart! A big thank you to Cam for his model railroad turnouts piece – and for the lighting too.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And don’t forget, the Beginner’s Guide is here if you want to stop dreaming and start doing.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.







4×8 model railroad layouts – Steve’s

Steve’s been busy with his 4×8 model railroad layouts – this one has a wild west theme.

“This is my first layout(4×8) and with only limited space I created a western town from the late 1800’s.

With over 150 trees (75% hand made) and (25% gifts from family) two oval tracks.

Steve”

rock face with back drop

4x8 model railroad layouts

model railroad folds away

4x8 model railroad layouts scenery

4x8 model railroad layouts

4x8 model railroad layouts table

4x8 model railroad layouts train





Steve’s pics reminded me of Rich’s layout Model train oval layout 4×8.

Now on to Dean, with the next part in his series:

(If you missed his last post, it’s here.)

“Hi, Al, I’m digressing a little from my Scenic Ridge construction with this short video on a cheap and reliable power supply I use to drive switches (turnouts).

This video describes a capacitive-discharge power supply that I use to power my Atlas switches on my Scenic Ridge Railroad under construction.

It can also be used with other twin-coil or snap switches such as those manufactured by Bachmann or Peko.

It is easy to build and uses an inexpensive Wall-Wart (wall plug-in) power supply, which you might have on hand. Anything you have rated at 12-18 volts, ½ Amp or greater, should work.

Generally, the positive lead on the Wal-Wart is the internal wire. Or it might be the wire that is painted white. Check before you use it since it must be connected to the correct lead on the capacitor or the capacitor will self-destruct.

Here’s a list of parts. Unfortunately, you have to buy several of the smaller pieces at a time. Shop around to get better prices or find some friends to share the cost with.

• PLUSPOE 12V1A AC DC Switching Power Supply Adapter 12W Wall Wart Transformer (on Amazon $6.98).

• 10 Pcs 5x7cm (2x3in) DIY PCB Prototyping Perf Circuit Boards Breadboards US (on eBay, 10 for $4.95

• 100 ohm 1- watt resistor (on eBay, 10 for $2.99)

• 5pcs 35v 4700uf 35volt 4700mfd 105c aluminum capacitor 16×30mm (on eBay, 5 for $5.49)

Dean”



A big thanks to Steve and Dean.

Steve looks like he’s having fun on his 4×8 model railroad layouts.

That’s all for today folks – please do keep ’em coming.

Please just email me if you’d like to share anything.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





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