More model train pics and tips

“Hi Al,

just a photo to let you see how I am progressing, I would like to install street lights but without drilling holes in the baseboard, any ideas please?

Starting the scenery now and will keep in touch.

regards

Alasdair M”



“Hi Al,

Here are some more photos of my new railway under construction.

As you can see in the photos, some scenery has built before track was laid.

Also in the photos track laying is well under way. I am using trackrite underlay, which can be purchased from hobby shops and ToyWOrld stores.

The underlay has to be modified to go under points, but can easily be cut using sharp scissors

Paul”



“Color Coding

I have 5 or 6 different sized, diameter and thread, screws I use frequently while modeling. To make things easier, I color coded them so it was easy to identify the tap drill and tap as well as the screws for them.

I bought some cheap fingernail polish in different colors. On a particular drill and tap set, the same color of polish is painted on each. I have small zip-close bags for screws. The same color represents a particular size. For example, all bags with 2-56 screws, the bag has yellow polish stripe. Drills and taps for 2-56 have a yellow painted band around the base. 1-64 screw bags, drills and taps all carry a blue stripe or band and 0-80’s a red stripe or band.

In instances where I have both tight and loose fit drills for a particular size, the tight fit drill will only have the appropriate color for the size while the “loose fit” drill will have a second band of silver on it. Thus, the drill for a 2-56 for a loose fit, probably one where I intend to use some sealant to make it permanent, would carry the yellow band with a silver one beside it.

Not only do I store my screws in zip-close bags, but the drills and taps too are stored in them and the bags are all identified accordingly.

This makes identification easy and when several are left laying on the work bench, it very much simplifies sorting and putting them away.

Dick”

That’s all for this time folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the store.

They are great fun to make and great value too.

More lighting know how from Barry

“Hi Al,

Barry from South Australia here again.

This is a follow up to my last email re: the CL2N3-G IC (Integrated Circuit) module.

The CL2N3-G picture compares the size to a resistor, and the TO-92 picture shows the module with its 3 legs.

The leg marked NC (Not Connected), can be cut off flush with the body, as it is not needed. The VA leg is the + connection, and the VB leg is the – connection.

The FR_Circuit picture shows a simple circuit for wiring a forward & reverse LED for an Analogue setup.

The CL2N3 can be used with DCC, just replace the resistors with CL2N3’s.

The Multiple LEDs picture, shows how to wire multiple LEDs to 1 CL2N3, which is good for lighting coaches (passenger trains).

The Standard Circuit picture, is, well, a standard wiring diagram of the CL2N3.

A search on the web will also provide many more applications for this wonderful little device, and there is another version that can supply 25mA to a LED, a CL25N3-G IC.

Regards,

Barry”

“I was looking at the TIPS FOR YOU and I want to give you one.

I am retired from a power utility and use the info I have to include running electric (not hot) to all of the locations that us electric.

I found that buying fencing of all this cost lots of money, so. I now use Plastic Window screen for fence.

You can turn it at different angles to get square, or diamond shaped fence. Just cut it to your right height with a pair of scissors.

For the posts I save used stick matches or tooth picks.

For the wire on the power poles and high tension towers I use the elastic thread sold at sewing supply stores. This makes hitting the lines not pull or brake the poles or towers.

G”


“I got a great tip from a Jim O’Connell of Santee,CA. he builtmy Z scale layout in 2012. I too neede a way to keep my ‘ MTL lumber loads,ect. from sliding off my flat cars.

Jim told me to get some elmers glue and put a small drop on the cars and also on the wood packs.

Then when you change from runnind those cars to something else you can peel the wood packs off of the cars and be able to put them back into the plastic “jewel cases” they came in.

To get the glue off of the load and the cars all you have to do is”roll” the glue spot back and forth until it comes off. The glue will stay “soluable” for several years.

It comes in a small brown bottle with a brush top applicator. Hopes this helps.

Most of what I have learned about Z scale is from the people who have been in that scale a long time. Now if it had anything to do with your HVAC system or your ductwork I know all th answers and tricks of that trade, as I was a sheetmetal mechanic for over 40 yrs.

Lee Barry Bristol,Va”

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

Even more layout pics and tips

“Hi Alastair.

I’ve been following your posts for some time now and wow there sure are some talented people out there.

I started a model some years ago which also featured a lake, that was about as far as it got, then we moved house.

Re kindled again late last year and I have used the lake again, albeit in a different place on a new model.

The lake in the picture was made on a bed of plaster to give contour effects then painted and layered in about 15 coats of varnish to give depth.

A little blue looking at the picture but in the flesh it’s quite a dark green.

Andy”

“I used brown sewing string around my telephone poles and power lines.

I also took 2 plastic ho automobiles and melted the front ends together with a lighter to simulate and accident. Had police and ambulance at the scene. (of course everyone was ok)

David”

“Hi Al,

I noticed from the comments about the glowing fire box effect, that some of the guys said” it was too bright and I should tone it down a bit”

So I did, I painted red paint on the light bulb, here is the effect with Hornby pug 0-4-0st number 51240.

It is shunting it has track cleaning car in front and a van behind it.

Paul”

“This is a half done hydro power substation with working warning light near the shack.And barbed wire with rolling gate.

I also including my home satilight dish.

I also have made up some bungalow’s.

Did 3 in a few hour’s and are made of balsa wood.

If you would like more detail to any of these build’s let me know.

Kim”

“Hi Alistair,

Just uploaded this video to youtube , showing how to add lights to buildings , and also how to put flashing lights on to a car very cheaply…

Regards

Dave”



That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And please don’t forget the Beginner’s Guide is here if you want to start on your own fun, blood, sweat and tears.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.