Seems Barry’s new plans really split the pack -so he’s kindly shared his thoughts:
“Al,
The pics included only represent a potential track layout for the lower level but are not attached as you can see. You requested that I explain my layouts design purpose so I will try to do so below:
1) It’s being built mounted to wall to still allow space in the room for other purposes.
2) It’s (2) levels to double the amount of layout in the same space.
3) The double track helixes allow the trains access from one level to the other that are vertically 21.75 inches apart. They also allow the trains to disappear for period of time (approx. 70.00 lin. Inches of track) on each end of the layout to add to the realism and also hide from view the turnaround radiuses which visually define the layouts parameters.
The helixes will be scenery covered mountains with visible tunnel entrances and exits.
4) The lower level will be an industrial scene with (2) mainlines and multiple sidings to stage extra complete trains to digitally called to enter or exit the mainlines and there will be several spurs to accommodate buildings.
5) The upper level will be a rural scene with (1) siding on each of the (2) mainlines and probably a couple of spurs.
6) The backdrops will be panoramic high resolution photographs printed to the required lengths. The upper is approx. 41 ft. and the lower is approx.
26 ft.
7) The upper backdrop and the train decks will be removable to access the electrical breaker panel and marked accordingly for safety and code.
8) Note that the backdrop corners are curved to create a more realistic flow of the photo backdrops and to avoid shadows.
9) All turnouts will be controlled by Tortoise under deck mounted switch machines with green or red lights on the layout control panel diagram at each turnout control toggle switch to indicate at a glance which way the switch position is.
10) The lower deck will be lighted by incandescent lights on a dimmer to simulate different sunlight conditions.
11) Stage II will be an additional 4 ft x 8 ft platform extending out from the center of the lower level to accommodate spurs and a (7) bay roundhouse with a powered turntable.
Hope this helps you and the viewers more clearly understand my design
intentions.”
A big thanks to Barry – can’t wait to see his next update.
When I was younger I longed for the day when my computer would be as easy to use as my phone. Well I am happy to say that day has finally arrived…. I no longer know how to use my phone.
Sound for a Layout
They might be hard to use but one thing these new smart phones and iPads are really good for is bringing sound to your layout. You can connect them to a cheap pair of computer speakers and run sound from any one of the free/cheap sound effects programs (apps) available for your device.
I am using a program called DJ Soundbox that works on both iPhones and iPads. After trying a few I found it had a few advantages.
– it will run multiple sounds at once,
– it will loop some sounds over and over, like background sounds
– you can download your own sounds onto it.
I have included a photo of the screen to help.
Cameron”
Now on to Alan.
I get a lot of stuff from Alan – and it’s always welcome. He’s been busy syncing sound effects with his iphone. Have a look!
“Hi Al, I have a couple of old ARGO LP’s of steam trains in the 1950’s. I have fun matching the sound of different locos with the same models. Here is an ex GWR 2-8-0T on a long climb up Abergavenny bank in South Wales, perfect for my layout.
I have transferred all the tracks on to my Iphone and play it through some decent speakers.
Sounds much better than DCC in my opinion. Getting the speed to match the exhaust beats is tricky, but it’s fun.
Alan”
“Al,
Do you remember me? I finally started building my own Model Railroad. It will be 2 levels with a double helix at each end. I started construction 2 weeks ago and attached are some WIP pictures. If you wish I will keep you informed. I’m expecting to be operational in 2 months and then the detailing will obviously follow. Note the curved masonite backdrops, I’m trying to procure high resolution actual photographs for the backdrops, rural country for the top , and industrial setting for the bottom. Please let me know what you thing so far and if you want see more.
Regards,
Barry”
Barry! How could we forget you? You sent in one of my favourite posts (it’s here).
Can’t wait to see how you get on – please do send pics and video!
Thankyou for your kind feedback and support for the video. It has left me feeling extremelly motivated to put the finishing tuches on the layout and film another one.
As for the bus and fire engine moving, it is not as impressive as the video makes out. Just some black thread and a 1:1 scale man pulling it along. I got the inspiration from Dave who used this technique in a video he submitted some time ago. Ahhh the magic of cinema.
Cameron”
“Hello again Al,
My decision to switch into a larger scale was not only based on the fact that I was thick fingered and squinty eyed but also I now had a larger space to play. I decided not to take apart my HO layout because I still liked running the trains and I felt I had too much invested into it. Thought this was a good time to mention that although my 1st layout had a switching area I found I really did not enjoy picking up and dropping off trains. I just like to watch them run around my layout while I sit and drink my coffee.
My plan was to build the On30 layout on top of my work and storage shelves directly under the HO shelf layout. The first thing I did was to buy a 2-6-0 Consolidated with DCC and sound and put it on the shelf to give me inspiration. I then bought a couple of what they call Craftsmen kits. I got one called the Hillside Mine from Ozsteam (Steam in the Bush) in Australia and the other was the Danby Saw Mill that I found on eBay. After I finished building them I designed my new layout. It was during the process of building the craftsmen kits that I got more confidence in my ability to do more scratch building. I got tired of using coffee stirrers from restaurants and tongue depressors that I picked up at my doctors office and went to a place called Michaels that my wife told me about (an 80 mile round trip) and bought all kinds of wood sticks. Some of these were like Popsicle sticks, others were like tongue depressors and some were just flat w/o the rounded ends. Forget the hobby shop (although I do wish I had access to one) this is the way to buy wood for scratch building. Also picked up a bunch of 1/4 size stock at the lumber yard.
Some items of interest about this layout:
1. Had to bite the bullet and use two drop-in’s (two levels of tracks) since this layout was too low (about 34″ high) for me to duck under.
2. Tried my hand at installing decoders. After destroying two locomotives, I have given up on this part of the hobby.
I buy my locomotives with the decoders installed or I send them out to be installed.
3. The main trestle with the waterfall is my copy of one I saw on the internet called the Sundance Central. The main station is my rendition of one I saw in a magazine called the Rubble’s Depot sold by Deben LLC. I built it out of cardboard boxes with the round part being a couple of salt boxes (Morton’s Salt) with the top being a funnel wound with string and a thing the doctor uses to look into your ears and nose mounted on the top. I then rolled the whole model in kitty litter. When I was at my doctors, he threw away the plastic do-dad that he used to look into my ears and I asked if I could have it. He then reach into a drawer and gave me a bunch of them. I now glue them on top of pill bottles to make steam boilers. Everything else is also scratch built from pictures I see in magazines of on the internet.
4. Just a note about making molds of things. For rocks and big stuff, Plaster of Paris is O.K. but on thinner stuff like tunnel portals it’s much too soft and the casts will break. Use regular plaster. If you need really strong plaster, I used Durham’s Water Putty. I bought a bunch of plaster stumps and spent a whole lot of time making molds of these tiny stumps and then making plaster casts for my layout. Much easier to just go out and get some tree branches and cut them into stumps. Live and learn! I made molds of barrels and then made dozens of them out of plaster. When I ran out of plaster I filled the molds with melted glue sticks …. much easier and the casts were better.
5. A gentleman named Mario gave me some advice when I began to build this layout and also the names of some layouts to look at. They really changed the way I try to plan and build my layouts.
6. Some of you may have noticed that I now use NBW (nut-bolt-washer) sets instead of pin heads. Make sure you don’t trim your finger nails when you play with these little things.
7. On my HO layout I used something called Liquid Water (I think). On this layout I used a product called Glaze Coat (Famowood – but any like product will do) that I bought at the lumber yard. Much cheaper and does the same thing. So if you like your water feature to have actual depth, this is the way to go.
8. Lighting this layout was always a problem for me. I tried strings of white Christmas lights. I tried string tube lights that are used under kitchen cabinets. I also tried small florescent under mount lights as well. None of these really worked for me. The main problem with lighting this layout was the fact that I did not allow enough height to provide for effective lighting. I could not use a valance because it would block the layout. If I would have planned for a layout under my existing one I would have used small canned lights mounted in the upper layout. My waterfall is actually strips of clear silicone caulk painted white on the underside.
9. The heavy foliage is some poly fiber that I took out of an old pillow that my wife threw away. I dunked it into a can of green latex paint, wrung it out and let it dry out in the sun. When I need it, I stretch it out into a thin sheet, then dip it into a 50/50 mix of white glue and water, ring it out a little and press it into a mix of scenic foam(one side only). I then drape the stuff over my scenery. If your scenery is unfinished plaster you may have to brush on some white glue to help is stick.
I operated these layouts for about a year and then had a scathingly brilliant idea. I called a contractor friend and asked if he could add a 12 x 12 foot extension onto my existing train depot. He said ‘No Problem’. This gave me a 12 x 24 foot space and another adventure had begun.
Robert”
Wow! Another inspirational layout. Thank you Robert.
