Craig’s lighting ‘how to’

After Arnie’s wonderful video and pics on his lighting, I thought it fitting to post this sent in by Craig:

“Al: I have been getting your e-mails for some time now. They are great and I look forward to them. But up to now, I have been a taker, not a giver.

I found an inexpensive way (OK, cheap) to make yard lights. I wanted to share.

Street lights cost upward of $10 each. I did find some that were about $10 for 2 lamps on posts. Still expensive if you need several of them.

I want to share a new way to get street lights with the guys. I ordered 20 of these building lights. Peel and stick type. They were $18+ for 20 of them and they had Grain of Wheat sized LED’s.

I used the light that came in the peel and stick lamps and they were good for yard lights but a bit too big for outside building lights.

So I used the Grain of Rice LED’s in place of the lights that came with the peel and stick fixture and came up with some good building lights for a service station or grocery store loading dock, for instance. Here’s the process:

Take the peel and stick lights and remove the sticky pad. The light slips easily out of the housing. Cut off a portion of the housing as shown on the photo.

You come up with a funnel shaped thing and a straight collar shaped thing. There is an inner collar in the light housing.

Either use a large drill bit and rotate the drill bit by hand to slowly shave away this inner collar, or use a #11 blade and rotate it until it trims this collar down to a fine edge so that it will accept the lamp and thread the light back in the opposite way it came out and glue it in place.

Paint the housing inside white or silver to reflect the light back, or leave it black.

Paint the outside a color that would go good with where it will be mounted: maybe gray for an industrial area, green for a store loading area or maybe silver for residential street lamps.

I drilled a hole in a skewer (saw this in a recent issue of Model Railroader Magazine) and threaded the wires through the hole, painted the skewer to look like a light pole and mounted one outside a line shack. The one pictured with three lamps will go in the train yard.

I also cut the funnel a little shorter and mounted it to the outside of a service station off of a piece of styrene channel I had left over from a project. It passes.

Just a note about the post with the three lamps: I cut the wires off two of them and wired them to the third set of wires. I used tape and don’t like it. Maybe shrink tubing would work better to hold them together??

In any case, the wires that come with the peel and stick lamps are long enough to run them to a nearby building then down to wherever you are going to connect them to your power source. The grain of rice LED’s only have a few inches of wire with them.

Be very careful when trimming the insulation from these lights. There are not many strands of wire and it is very easy to cut these small wires, and you need them all.

I have been a rail fan since I was a boy, and recently got into model railroading, HO scale. I bought a cookie cutter benchwork and have spent the last three years adding terrain and scenes. I’m a first-timer, but if you are interested in seeing some of my mistakes, I can share the photos.

Craig in Utah (That would be the USA: I see from looking at your layouts that many of you are driving on the wrong side of the street) :)”

A big thanks to Craig.

That’s all for today folks, except a few of you have asked for Gary’s link again, so here it is:

Gary’s model railroad journey.

(It is one of my fave posts.)

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if you want to make that start – just like Craig and all the others did – the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

7

Arnie’s night time pics

“Hi Al,

I continue to see and enjoy really nice layout work in the postings and some great tips that are both cost and outcome effective. Thanks for bringing them to us.

I have just completed part of a new LED lighting project I’ve undertaken on my N scale SV&GS Railway layout.

It addresses the issue of the valley side of the layout being too dark since there was no direct illumination there.

A prior video you posted on my nighttime operations on the SV&GS made that very apparent to me. So I decided to install LED illuminated lampposts along the park, train platform, roadways and cliffs near some waterfalls.

I also installed LED lighted autos I obtained and modified two buses I had by installing LEDs on the interior to illuminate the passenger areas.

Thus far, the effect has been very pleasing. I thought I would share with you and the readers a video and some photos I just put together. Hope you’ll consider posting them.

Thanks again — Arnie”


The very latest ‘ebay cheat sheet’ is here. Some bargains to be had at the mo.

Hope you enjoyed Arnie’s work as much as did.

Please do keep ’em coming.

That’s all for today folks.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.


Frank’s superb railroad layout

Frank has been kind enough to send in a video of his superb video.

If you missed the pics, they are here.

Here’s what he sent in with the vid too:

“Ok here it is, I finally got some time to sit down and wright something out.

First thank you Al for posting my pics.

And thank you to everyone who commented on them. I cant enough about the kind words you all had to say. It speaks volumes to a rookie.

Ok the layout is on a 4×8 and a 4×4 in an L shape its pulled out from the wall about 2 ft in witch I added a raised platform for the back part of the HO scale. Oh by the way the top is HO and the bottom is O 27, Lionel.

The Lionel I’ve had since I was about 7. Through the years its been up only temporary. I’ve always wanted to do some sort of layout. But never got the chance.

The Foam board, I lucked out with that. We had some construction where I work and I plucked scrap out of the dumpsters and I was surprised at how much there was. I originally was using it to insulate a crawl space but there was so much I decided to start on my railroad.

I first laid out a track platform for the Lionel Train. I wanted to keep it simple, (no switches and no branches). Not ready for anything too complicated. I knew I wanted mountains, It got a little out of control.

But anyway its construction foam its different and better than styrofoam.

I stacked it up where I wanted and glued the layers together.

After they dried I carved them. (Tools) Drywall saw. Shark tooth saw.

Screw driver. Glazers putty knife.

I’d jab a screw driver or a drywall saw or the glazer tool into the foam and break off a piece then another. Where the foam broke off made nice rock like formations, I also would take a pointed edge and scrape it causing the foam to chafe and break off also with good result.

Then I would take the big shark tooth saw and made horizontal

Shallow cuts one inch apart all the way across to simulate layers.

I then took a spray bottle filled it with eggshell white latex house

Paint added a little water to thin it and spry’d a base coat on the foam.

I bought a cheap airbrush witch turned out to be a great choice.

Bought small latex paint samples at Lowes. For a couple of bucks.

And started painting light layers and just go over the same area a few times to get the effect you want.

Light coats first you can always put more on but you cant take it off. Use earth colors and flats.

The O gauge tunnel entrance is actually HO that some one gave me after I had it done but I put it in anyway. I made it work.

The HO tunnel at the right of the bridge goes through the mountain and loops around and comes out behind the upper spring.

Two big mistakes I made:

I didn’t think about making the bridge open in the middle so you could see thru it.

And I should have put it back farther because the lionel bridge is behind it.

3 rd mistake was I forgot to put the rail wood beams down the length of the top of the tresell. (Not sure what there called). The Bridge is made from round and square doll rods.

I made a jig to make each trestle. I laid the vertical legs in first Measured and cut each cross peace and then used a dremil to nutch each one as to glue each one across the uprights. I was trying to anchor them in a foam base but found that a peace of wood worked better. I measured and spaced each one where I wanted it to be on the board making a grid.

I drilled holes into the board where the legs would line up inserted the trestles in place. I put the hole thing on the layout where I wanted it and then adjusted each trestle so they where all level then I glued them in.

After they dried I Then cut and glued in all the horizontal joining peaces.

Frank”



Don’t forget the very latest ‘Ebay cheat sheet’ is here.

Now on to Barry:

I started this project the middle of January but I only work on it 2-3 days every 2-3 weeks and they live about 1-1/2 hours from my home.

I have about 110 hours into the total project so far and will probably require another 30 hours to finish the rest of the scenery and then I will send you a complete set of photos showing the development from beginning to end.

Thanks for the compliments.

Regards,

Barry”

model railroad layout

railroad layout and scenery

Please leave a comment below and let us know what you think.

A huge thanks to Barry and Frank for sharing.

That’s all for today folks. Please do keep ’em coming.

And don’t forget the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al