Model railroad layouts plans

“Hi Al. Update on making metal looking fence’s.

1 nylon road crew flag. Cut up to make fence’s or can leave it to look like the construction orange fence ya see.

And already weathered. Paint with crafter’s acrylic water base paint. You can wash it off. Make sure you rub with small paint brush all the bubble’s out.

Take metal wire to make post’s and instant glue them on.

The road barrier is made from plastic food container’s.and glued with instant glue and painted crafter’s paint.and for the post’s i used wooden match sticks.

Kim”

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“Hi Al,

I purchased a magnetic tray, which I can use for servicing my locos.

I can put the screws and other metal parts in it.

Result I don’t lose the screws and other metal fiddly parts.

Paul”

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“Hi Al,

For realistic point operation, I insert insulated joiners about 18 inches leading into points on the switching tracks. If a train approaches the points, and the points are NOT set for thru, he train will stop at a realistic location before the points.

Its amazing how most of us use ‘junk’ and ‘REAL’ materials. Simple economics I guess !

Keep up the good work.

Steve”

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“Hi there, I run 00 H0 and I’ve found that the empty 2 litre plastic milk bottles when cut down on the ‘bulk’ part and sprayed matt black on the inside and glued into place make ideal single tunnel entrances, and the 5 litre plastic liquid containers when cut down and sprayed do the same for double tracks. You can of course join several together if you wish for a longer run

Regards

Derek”

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“I’ve found that old cotton sheeting or muslin dipped into a solution of polyfilla or similar is cheaper than mod roc, easy to mold and dries a lot quicker than papier mache. You will need to play about a bit with the polyfilla solution. Also, beware……..it can get a trifle messy.

Kind Regards

Larry”

“Let’s try this again.This is a diagram for relay and reed switch’s for signal’s:

(Kim’s first post here)

“Alastair,

Attached, I hope, are two photographs I think you might enjoy.

One is of a working railroad here in Western Maryland. My wife and I have taken this tour and we loved it. The foliage in autumn is beautiful.

The other is a steam engine, #777 that you may have to keep watered all summer long.

Enjoy
Richard”

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.

“Hi Alastair,

Latest part of my 00 guage model town with the water park and the town pub.

I am really enjoying doing this, I made the pond from model water.

The pub has turned out better than I had hoped. more to come at a later date.

The stone wall I made from a length of cardboard and covered in PVA glue I then sprinkled fine pebbledash which I sived through a cheese grater; came out great.

Keep up the good work sending all these tips and great ideas from everyone.

Cheers

Stuart P”

(See more of Stuart’s layout from an earlier post here).

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“Instead of using ballast and track underlay I went ton a vinal shop and bought an offcut of brown spotted or flecky underlay that is used for laying vynal and cut it into strips for track underlay.It looks the real part. Track underlay out here in NZ is so dear.

Thanks Murray”

“Another tip for people doing benchworking is to have your plywood cut at the lumberyard before you bring it home. Most plywood comes in 4’by8′ sheets. This can be bulky to haul up to the attic or down to the basement. With a little forethought, you can have the lumberyard cut it into 2’by4′ pieces; or 4’by4′ pieces; or whatever specific measurements you need.

B”

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“Hi Al.

Not sure i sent you this yet.It’s my end train flashing warning light.Think they call it a fred.If ya dont want it on.Grasp it and unplug.or plug back in.

The two holes i made in the car are the same size as the leads going in.almost invisible from the outside.There is an old computer connector inside the the car that the unit plug’s into.Then that run’s to a temporary battery pack.

I plan on running power from the track later to run it.No wires should show.Really easy to make.Im going to shrink it smaller alittle and better material.Only a test.tell me what ya think”

Been playing with these idea’s.Im useing phone boxes to distribute 12 volt and 6 volt power.You jack into the box like a phone.My street light’s are plugged into the phone box and if need replacement or repair just unplug from phone box.My signal’s are also plugged into the phone box.Any thing can be plugged into the boxes as long as you leave the connector on.Said this before when i sent you the how to wire signal’s.

Other is a test.My warning tail light at the end of the train.It flashes every second.And if you dont need it on there.You can pop it off.I made two so tiny holes in the back of it same size as the Led posts.And those post have a plug on the other side with a a battery pack inside the box car.It’s a test so far work’s great.I will steal power from the track later to run the 2mm flashing Led

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There’s a lot of talent out there, isn’t there? Thanks for sharing everyone. Please keep them rolling in.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

“Hi Al and modeler’s.This is to replace those 12 volt bulb’s in your locomotive.

To run realistic speeds i find the bulb doesn’t produce enough light.You have to run to fast to show it and normally looks a yellowish glow.

Ive replaced my locomotive lights with 1.5 volt Led’s. Less heat and more light at very low speed’s.

Photo 1 is the led and the 12 volt resistor.And next to it is the factory bulb lot’s of heat very little light.

Photo 2 is the light board in the locomotive.

Photo 3 is the already finished and installed front light with resistor and used shrink tubing to protect from heat and short.

Photo 4 is the factory bulb in the rear of the locomotive.

Photo 5 is the Led and the resistor soldered to the possitive lead of the Led.Dont over heat.

photo 6 is the finished light.

Photo 7 is the Led soldered in place.

Careful to make sure the 2 soldered point’s dont not touch and to use a object to scrap gently between to clear any unwanted stuff and make a clean connection.

Photo 8 is me holding the locomotive at super slow speed and show how bright during the day the Led’s work.

Now next time i am replacing the 2 mar’s light’s in front to real lights.

Basic soldering and a easy fix to spruce up your locomotive lighting. Going to love it at low light.

All Led’s and resistors come in a pack from ebay and cost .99 cents and free shipping for 20 colored led’s.

If any problem’s let me know.enjoy.

Kim”

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A big thanks to Kim, I know this is a problem that is posted a fair bit.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.