More model railway tips and tricks

“Hi Alastair,

Latest part of my 00 guage model town with the water park and the town pub.

I am really enjoying doing this, I made the pond from model water.

The pub has turned out better than I had hoped. more to come at a later date.

The stone wall I made from a length of cardboard and covered in PVA glue I then sprinkled fine pebbledash which I sived through a cheese grater; came out great.

Keep up the good work sending all these tips and great ideas from everyone.

Cheers

Stuart P”

(See more of Stuart’s layout from an earlier post here).


“Instead of using ballast and track underlay I went ton a vinal shop and bought an offcut of brown spotted or flecky underlay that is used for laying vynal and cut it into strips for track underlay.It looks the real part. Track underlay out here in NZ is so dear.

Thanks Murray”



“Another tip for people doing benchworking is to have your plywood cut at the lumberyard before you bring it home. Most plywood comes in 4’by8′ sheets. This can be bulky to haul up to the attic or down to the basement. With a little forethought, you can have the lumberyard cut it into 2’by4′ pieces; or 4’by4′ pieces; or whatever specific measurements you need.

B”


“Hi Al.

Not sure i sent you this yet.It’s my end train flashing warning light.Think they call it a fred.If ya dont want it on.Grasp it and unplug.or plug back in.

The two holes i made in the car are the same size as the leads going in.almost invisible from the outside.There is an old computer connector inside the the car that the unit plug’s into.Then that run’s to a temporary battery pack.

I plan on running power from the track later to run it.No wires should show.Really easy to make.Im going to shrink it smaller alittle and better material.Only a test.tell me what ya think”

Been playing with these idea’s.Im useing phone boxes to distribute 12 volt and 6 volt power.You jack into the box like a phone.My street light’s are plugged into the phone box and if need replacement or repair just unplug from phone box.My signal’s are also plugged into the phone box.Any thing can be plugged into the boxes as long as you leave the connector on.Said this before when i sent you the how to wire signal’s.

Other is a test.My warning tail light at the end of the train.It flashes every second.And if you dont need it on there.You can pop it off.I made two so tiny holes in the back of it same size as the Led posts.And those post have a plug on the other side with a a battery pack inside the box car.It’s a test so far work’s great.I will steal power from the track later to run the 2mm flashing Led


There’s a lot of talent out there, isn’t there? Thanks for sharing everyone. Please keep them rolling in.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al





Replacement lights for locos

“Hi Al and modeler’s.This is to replace those 12 volt bulb’s in your locomotive.

To run realistic speeds i find the bulb doesn’t produce enough light.You have to run to fast to show it and normally looks a yellowish glow.

Ive replaced my locomotive lights with 1.5 volt Led’s. Less heat and more light at very low speed’s.

Photo 1 is the led and the 12 volt resistor.And next to it is the factory bulb lot’s of heat very little light.

Photo 2 is the light board in the locomotive.

Photo 3 is the already finished and installed front light with resistor and used shrink tubing to protect from heat and short.

Photo 4 is the factory bulb in the rear of the locomotive.

Photo 5 is the Led and the resistor soldered to the possitive lead of the Led.Dont over heat.

photo 6 is the finished light.

Photo 7 is the Led soldered in place.

Careful to make sure the 2 soldered point’s dont not touch and to use a object to scrap gently between to clear any unwanted stuff and make a clean connection.

Photo 8 is me holding the locomotive at super slow speed and show how bright during the day the Led’s work.

Now next time i am replacing the 2 mar’s light’s in front to real lights.

Basic soldering and a easy fix to spruce up your locomotive lighting. Going to love it at low light.

All Led’s and resistors come in a pack from ebay and cost .99 cents and free shipping for 20 colored led’s.

If any problem’s let me know.enjoy.

Kim”


A big thanks to Kim, I know this is a problem that is posted a fair bit.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the store.

They are great fun to make and great value too.

Ken’s layout, step by step…

Got this in from Ken – and I’m always a sucker for the ‘step by step’ stuff. Hope you like it as much as I did.


“Thank you for all the great tips and advice, I have included pictures and a dialog of my progress since beginning my new layout in September.

I now live 2 hours away from Guadalajara, grew up in L.A. Calif. and after the service moved around a lot and now am retired in Mexico.

My new layout begun in September, it occupies a space of 13 feet by 13 feet.

It has been almost 20 years since I last had a layout, that one was in a basement room that was 30 feet by 30 feet, it never got beyond track laid and operation but was fun.

I am determined this time to get as complete as possible, this however now has some challenges as I now live in Mexico, and some things we take for granted as always being available just aren’t here or are so expensive as to be prohibitive.

With this in mind I started, the bench work is made from ½ inch plywood, the reason for this is simple, solid lumber costs more and is not kiln dried, so prone to warp and shrinkage.

I started by cutting up 2 sheets into 3 inch strips, these for the legs and bench framing, the legs are L shaped, the joints are glued and screwed together.

The bench work is L girder in design, again all joints are glued and screwed together, also in assembling the bench work I planned on 4 sections that could be separated as we are contemplating a move to another city and do not wish to destroy what I have.

The only part that remained from my previous layout is a bridge that I hand built as a removable bridge.

After 20 years three moves and subsequent time in storage it was in sad shape, this became the first project, rehab, that is done except new paint.

Then where to place it, the design of the layout and the length of the bridge made the choice easy.

I needed a way into the center of the layout and so one corner became the bridge central.

The main track concept is a main loop around the entire layout, this required a double track bridge, the bridge, and then up and down ramps to the main level.

Also there is a coal mine incorporated with its own trackage, this would also require another bridge, and then there is a loop on the main level connecting everything that needs a bridge.

The 2 remaining bridge designs have not been decided as yet mainly because as I go I think of different ways to do things, such as a lift out section with trestles.

These first pictures show basic benchwork completed.

Here the bridge is seen, this is the location it will be in, the height above the bench is 8 inches.

This section of the bench is 4 feet across all the rest are 30 inches.

This is the location of the coal mine, here I am working on the track layout. I have numerous switches from before, number 5 and 6, left and right, plus some Atlas that a friend gave me, these plus what track I still have I set to work.

I lost count of the variations I tried till I finally arrived at this one.

The considerations were, being able to pull empties in, un couple, run around, and push into appropriate track, number of tracks, length of tracks thus dictating length of train.

The first of many designs. I find it easier to lay things out full scale.



Final design, the sub road bed base is construction fiber board, after putting it down I ‘painted’ it with a mix of white glue and water, firmed it up and stopped the fuzzing.

Then after trying all the regular methods of fasting the track and visiting several hardware stores, and told every time, no, senor, I don’t have that, I resorted to a silicone glue and now all track is glued in place. After all the mine track was laid and I was admiring my work I made a nasty discovery, I had left out the un coupling magnets. Trust me I will not make that mistake again.

Here are the cars that make up the mine consist. The purple cars are from Tyco, that I have modified to meet my needs, I chose these cars because they have operating bottoms, and my plan is to have an operating mine loading cars and a point of drop off, the wife has suggested a coal fired power station.

The Shay is from NWSL, I bought it in the early 70’s, and plan to use it as the main motive power for the mine. The name on the cars is that of my daughter.

The pink insulation foam board is the base for the scenery.

Here I’m beginning work on the upper level, I had to make the road bed, I used the fiber construction board, cut on a table saw, 2 inch width, then beveled 35 degrees.

Then for the curvable pieces I used a band saw to cut diagonal cuts, all done at my local carpenter shop, they are friends of mine, in fact I helped them get and set up the shop. I create quite a cloud of paper fiber dust every time I do this.

Here you see the tunnel for the mine track under the main upper line, also what will become a turn table.

After I was congratulating myself on such a brilliant job laying out the mine track I realized I had no way of turning the loco’s around, so I came up with a turn table and then an engine shed for the loco’s also needed a track for car repair.

Here is the first attempt at what will be rock walls, I am using drywall compound and clothes dryer sheets over the insulation board. I got the idea for the sheets from an on line blog, works great and there is no cracking. In the background to the right is the ‘concrete pad for the engine house.

My tunnel portals are hand made from ¾ inch plywood, cut with a saber saw, installed using silicone glue, coated with drywall mud, sanded, and painted. May not be the ideal but it is what I came up with.

Did I mention the only hobby shop is a 2 hour drive from where I live, and if he does not have ‘it’ in stock, it takes a month for ‘it’ to get here, plus it is twice the cost of ‘it’ in the US, and it does not matter what ‘it’ is.

Also no liquid items can be shipped in, so alternatives need to be found, be creative, or plan a shopping trip to the US.




The tunnels 1 track, 1 road and the road, why you may ask are all the cars and engine still there when I am working on the messy scenery.

Good question. I don’t really have a good answer, I do know however that all will clean up and work fine.

All the mine track and locomotives are straight DC, there will be an interchange point where the cars will be left and taken over by loco’s in a DCC system.”


Wow! A big thanks to Ken for sharing. Can’t wait to see how it comes along.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.