Michael’s been in touch with his industrial HO scale.
Best of all are the construction photos at the end – you can see how it did it from start to finish:
Just superb isn’t it? A huge big thank you to Michael for sharing his industrial HO scale.
Doug has also been in touch with a tip on inlclines, which looking at Michael’s pics is very relevant:
“My first try I did some reading and unfortunately found too many references to 4 (and higher) percentage grades. If you only want a really short consist (5 cars) you can do this, but a five-car train isn’t very impressive to watch running. Drag freight is 100 or so. I’m building #3 now and trying not to exceed 2%. Unless you’re modeling logging or mining areas, brief bursts of 3% exist but are rare.
You can still have multi-levels, just don’t do it all at once. Or, use a helix at 2% to go up and make the higher grades down-only.
The Big Boys were made to single-head Sherman Hill, the big climb in Wyoming for the UP, with 100-car drag freight consists. The grade: 1.55%.
Raton Pass, built near the original Santa Fe wagon trail, hit 3.3% on the early switchback route before they tunneled through the mountain.
Cajon Pass in southern California maxes for a few miles at 3%, the newer segments were lowered to 2.2.
The steepest mainline grade in the U.S. is probably Saluda, North Carolina, at a bit over 5%.
Unless your layout is tiny enough that tiny trains are all you can run anyway, you’ll be much happier with your options if you keep the grade to 2.
Doug”
A big thank you to Doug, there’s quite a few posts on the blog now about inclines and multi level layouts. Here’s a few of them:
Just one tip, Dip your track ends into IPA (isopropyol alcohol) makes for a nice clean connection when building your layout.
Brian”
“Just one tip today. I eat cheese triangles, so when the round container is empty I use three glued together, cover the rounded area with lolly-pop sticks, then I used four round dowell rods (minature) stain with walnut stain, paint the top & bottom off white. They look great as silos. If you do the same thing with pringles (empty) containers they are just taller & thinner. Love reading comments on this page.
Gordon”
“I scooped up a 5 gallon bucket of “road base” from a local highway project. I made a series of 5 sifting screens ranging from 1/4″ hardware cloth down to very fine screen wire that just passes dust. I sorted the “road base” into 6 grades from dust to larger than 1/4″. The larger “rocks” are used as boulders in scenery. The remaining sizes are also used in scenery or as loads in gondolas and hoppers. The dust is sprinkled on scenery and locked in place with diluted white glue as ground cover. I live in Texas and the “road base” is very light in color and matches the west Texas area I model.
Bill”
“Al,
Just getting into the model railroading with a small budget I don’t have a lot of money for scenery. With that being said using simple flour, water and junk mail, yes junk mail, you can make amazing things. I really wanted a tunnel for my train to pass through so I made on out of paper mache,cardboard,toilet paper rolls and styrofoam then painted it white with simple house paint. I believe even if you don’t have a lot of money to invest a little paper mache, junk around the house, a little patience and a little imagination can go a long way. I have included a picture of my Life Like Sante Fe train HO scale going through my home made tunnel. It’s under my Christmas tree right now but when Christmas is over I hope to make my first train table.
–Christina”
“Hi Alastair,
II’ve found that fine ‘wet and dry’ sandpaper makes excellent station platorm tops, parking lots, etc. You can get it in any grade you want. If the coarser grades are too sharp and could cause abrasions, just lightly spray paint it before cutting to shape.
Still trying to source good looking furniture and artefacts for N gauge – most of the plastic stuff looks to chunky to be real.
AND where can I get pre-war cars and trucks in N gauge?
Thanks,
Don, Australia”
And here’s a response to Dave’s wiring problem (that’s here):
“I had that problem once, and learned that it was due to a pair of contacts, where one strand of a stranded copper wire, had worked loose, and made contact with another connection; which caused several switches (turnout), to open or close, in opposite of what I wanted them to do.
I don’t remember how many times my trains derailed due to that short; although I do recall I spent four hours tracking the wiring, line by line, to find the problem.
Deranged Dragon 99”
Hope you like them. Keep ’em coming. Still getting the boats emails by they way. So if you’re in that camp, boat stuff is here. Uboat pics are amazing – take a look at the gallery.
I can’t claim this as my original, but it is the most useful thing I’ve run into for cleaning track – a problem I used to have frequently. It is a “greaseless” lubricant called LPS1. Spray a little on a piece of balsa wood or other firm but porous applicator then rub it across the track.
Cheers,
Bill”
“I enjoy very much the suggestions and tips of the members. I think is very generous to share ideas etc. I use for furniture covers Flannel fabric available at Wal-Mart’s and fabric stores. It’s not expensive. I like the dark green color which in itself can make a great ground cover. But as I wash them and then dry them, in the filter of the dryer remains a great fuss I have collected and applied to a bended an wrinkled light cardboard. I have used colorless spray varnish. While wet, I applied the fuss, seems fairly effective. I guess could be mixed with other filter fuss of rocky or ground color.
Mentioned before, that my layout is a 6 X 7 (model “N”) platform suspended from the ceiling and operated by a winch inside the closet. So eliminating weight is essential.
Thanks to all good people.
Paco. “
“Use a sewing needle and thread. Put the thread through springs so they don’t spring out of sight.
Johnny”
“Hi Al.
For signage on say station buildings,shops,billboards, etc etc. I have some magazine pictures from a old brmodeling mag of old tin/metal posters ( ex:- players cigarettes,palethorp sausages,freeman hardy & willis) etc etc and quite a few more,the largest being approx 50mm x 50mm,smallest about 10mm x 20mm so what I’ve done is Photocopied the pages required, then Laminated them, then cut them out.
This Idea may be of some use to others.
Ralph”
“One way to make water effect is:
Paint the water underground with serveral lays of defferet colors, (remember to paint the shadows darkere ) then ad a liqud of tick epoxy glue as water, just before it dry work on the surface with a stiff bruch and you can paint the the top of the waves with very little white acryl paint. You can get in a shop who deals with artist articles.
Sorry my english writing isent so god.
Regards
Keld Andersen, Denmark”
“Hi Al,
Darwi modelling clay.
The advantage of using this clay to make scenery is that if you change your mind about a hill you made you knock it down and reuse the clay by simply putting it in a container of water, just a little bit so it will soft thus it be used again.
Paul”
“Best tip for scenery would, the use of extruded Styrofoam insulation sheets, 2” thick. Use the “Handle” end of a file to carve out rock formations. Paint with interior latex paint (Tan or light grey for a base) . This will allow you to use Water based artist paints, mixes in a spry bottle, to color to your liking. Also allows you to push tack scenery into the foam, for a sturdy “Tree” and holds lichen. Easy to make tunnels, and cut out for tunnel access, that are easily hidden.
Michael”
“Chain link fence. thats what i use the fiber glass mesh and for the post i use rabbet screen that you put around your garden plants for the post and you can use larg sections cheaply i am in to o scale now i find that if you find an old wire anamal cage that works good and just gule to the wire. i also use the stick down floor carpet tile for ground cover you can paint it great for farm lands like plowed fields.. hope this can save some money.
Garry”
“Hi Al,
I have a tip for you. I’m 77 year old gal who just decided to add a circus component to my Christmas Village, so I bought a circus train, big top and sideshow tents and lots of people and animals. I had a hard time getting the people and animals to stay standing up so I am using “Sticky Wax” and it works perfectly. It holds my riders on their horses and elephants; my wire walkers in place; my people in their seats in the bleachers; balls on the dog’s nose; etc. etc. It’s main use is really to hold candles upright in holders if they don’t fit perfectly. Doll makers use them to hold eyes in place in the heads while they pour the plaster over them.
I’m new to model railroading and I hope this tip helps somebody out there. I’m also new to your “club” and am so grateful for all of the tips that everyone sends in. At my age, I have to learn new things really fast – not that much time left to do all that I want to do!!!
Thanks for everything!!
BJ Johnson”
Like ’em? I did.
Some more crackers here. But it’s not long now before the $9 offer disappears like a shadow in the night…
