Lawrence has been in touch on wiring your layout.
Clambering around underneath a layout is an issue for some, so at first glance, this seems like a good way around it.
But it’s not. Sadly, it’s a great idea in principle, but not in practice, because of the fire risk.
So one to look out for. If you wondered why folk don’t do it this way, now you know.
“Hi Al
Thank you for all the work you do for us ‘Train Nuts’.
I have a hint for wiring the layout without ever going underneath the layout.
This works for people that build the layout and lay a sheet of plywood on the top of the framework. And then lay a one inch sheet of foam board insulation on top of that.
Initial Prep – I put down all my track first off and run the wires (16AWG stranded) on top of the foam board next to the track.
Feeder wires are 28 AWG. After that I run the trains for many hours over a weeks’ time, taking care of all and any problems.
Once all the trains (engines + multiple types of rolling stock) run the complete layout with no more problems multiple times, it is time to hide the wiring. Also ordered something to connect wire junctions (every time I needed feeder wires connected) – Lever-Nuts
Start hiding – The second picture shows the wiring in place next to the track. Once the wiring is correct never mess with it. What is the saying ‘don’t fix something that works’.
Followed by the Hot Foam Iron used to cut a trench next to the track. Wear a mask and glasses when doing this because it smokes, stinks, and not healthy. Well ventilated place also.
The next picture shows the wire placed into the trench. In some places multiple wires ended up in the same trench, for track and for lighting.
The next picture shows the Lever Nuts. One Nut for one side of the track. The other Nut is for the other side of the track. Using wire that is all red for one side of the track and one that is black or has a black stripe makes is easy to keep the wiring correct.
I have added two of the 16 AWG wire together and inserted in one section of the Lever-Nut when needed (the wire will fit but the insulation from the two wires will not).
To ensure good contact for the 28 AWG wire I cut the coating back three times as long and folded the wire in thirds (paper clip style) to give more contact points.
Putting the wire in a trench, the same needs to be accomplished for the Lever-Nuts. This is easy using a knife, just cut a square hole into the foam board. Next two pictures. Lower the Nuts into the hole. Take the top one eight of the foam square that was cut out and use it to cover the Nuts.
Finally ballast and ground cover as per normal.
The ballast I use is ground walnut shell I get from Harbor Freight for $30. It filled 25 of the standard ballast containers I would pay $14 for each. Do this in sections to make sure you did not break any connections. My sections are anywhere from three feet to nine feet as is convenient for the layout. Run the trains after each section is done to ensure you did not create a problem.
I have done this without any problems. Remember I ran the trains many times before the final modifications. And I am running the trains again and again with no more problems – well except cleaning dirty track rails first time around on each section.
Elevated sections – Run the wiring in trenches next to the elevation structure. Run feeder wires up the structure as needed. Hide the feeder wires to the rear and tack in place with hot glue. Or cover the upright (over the wires) with brick work paper or concrete paper from Al’s download files.
Now in the process of adding scenery and never once climbed under or passed wires under the layout. I am using the same techniques for all the wiring for lights in the buildings. This wiring is accomplished after the buildings are given a home and before associated scenery is installed.
Save the pain and strain on the back and neck, And only work on the wiring at the same level you lay track. Enjoy.
Lawrence”
Have a look at the comments below and you’ll see all about the fire risk, which is why I say, it’s a good idea in principle, but not in practice.
One comment stood out for me – Bob’s. So I asked him:
“If someone was determined to wire above the table / bench, how do you recommend they do it safely?”
And here’s Bob’s reply:
“Hi Al – I don’t have an answer, other than to leave it exposed. There are many methods to protect surface mounted wires in the construction world but none would work for our layouts. I don’t often criticize others’ work, I’m a “your railroad, your rules” modeler.
But electrical and fire safety are important so I felt I should comment.
Thanks,
Bob”
I want to thank Bob for taking the time to reply, and to all the others that have commented on this.
And now on to Peter who is making good use of his retirement:
“I have been enjoying your posts for a while and decided it was time for me share my efforts with you.
I rekindled my interest in railways when I retired 5 years ago and having a reasonable space in the garage dug out all my old models from 50 years ago and bought some new track.
Needless to say I still have lots to do but here are a few photos.
Peter”
A big thanks to Peter and Lawrence.
That’s all for today folks.
Please do keep ’em coming. It’s jolly quiet this end.
And if today is the day you stop dreaming, start doing in join in the fun, the Beginner’s Guide is here.
Remember, it’s the start that stops most people. Don’t let that be you…
Best
Al
PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.
