Dave’s been in touch with a DCC reverse loop wiring problem.
As usual, there are lot of helpful comments at the bottom of the post already.
“Al,
Here are 5 pics of the layout and a diagram.
Sorry for the mess but I’m trying to ballast the outside loop.
The problem is the reverse loops and how I should wire them.
I have NCE as my DCC control although I have it running on the outside loop via DC right now.
I understand I need to insulate blocks or districts, but do I continue to wire the track the same within the district ( Blue wire on the north rail, white wire on the south rail) and use a module for seamless transition? I do not want to use a DPDT switch if at all possible.
Thanks Al”
Now on to Bob:
“Hi Al,
I’m in the process of building my dream model railroad similar to dangerous Dave’s.
The room is 20ft x 32ft feet with a triple track main.
Two of which run around twice and one that runs around once. All the rail is in and the wiring half done.
I have a long long way to go and other things keep getting in the way. But I will keep at it.
I will send a few pictures that I have under separate cover.
Best Regards
Bob”
“Dear Alastair:
Enclosed is a shot to two cars I did, one for me with the Delaware and Hudson livery, the other for my brother in law who models the Union Pacific. These answer the question,”How does Santa get his reindeer food?”
I created the decals with the same process as I describer earlier on the pumpkin cars. As to the reindeer food, it is a dry sifted proprietory pig food mix donated by my nephew colored with some diluted raw sienna pigment.
It has the look of distillers grains, which is the by-product of making ethanol (US gasoline has 10% ethanol) from corn. It is used as silage. Ground-up rabbit food or any other dry material would work as food, including sawdust, which may even be preferrable. I top coated the loads with a flat medium to seal them.
If you can’t post, no worries, but thought you might enjoy a look.
Thanks, Al, and best wishes for the continuation of your wonderful site.”
A big thanks to Daniel and Bob.
And who can help Dave with his DCC reverse loop wiring? Please leave a comment below if you can.
That’s all for today folks.
Please do keep ’em coming.
And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.
Best
Al
PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.
PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.
WOW
Wow!!!! That’s a hell of a nice job on your layout gives me a lot of good ideas thank you for sharing the pics can’t what to see the end product !!!!! Chris
Regarding the reversing loop, there is an electronic module you can buy (from Digitrax, I believe) that controls the power to the loop. You insulate both ends of the loop, then power it from the module. It detects the momentary short as the loco passes over the insulating fish plates and switches the power, so that other than hearing a click from its relay you don’t notice anything. Much better than a DPDT switch!
Dave:
Continue to wire the same way and use a module.
very nice let me know if I can help
The Digtrak module works great but you must insure that your insulated reversing loop is long enough to take your longest train or you will have problems if your cars have metal wheels.
wish i had the mony to doo one not to big but ithink befor i kik the bucket i might be able to built one smal one love you posts thank you
Fantastic, very inspirational. I can find the large space, but I would have to put all of my living room furniture in the garage.
ANDY FL
Dave – out of choice, I would use two different colour wires to feed the reversing loop section (as the polarity can be either way round). You should be able to wire it up via a reversing loop module.
Gotta say I love the Heavy Duty Triple Track Truss Bridge. Going to be a real treat watching long freight and passenger trains snaking around your layout.
Can you post your track plan?
Al, In that all your posts are a learning experience for me, I am putting all of them
in memory..My thought is that when I get a pile about two inches thick, I’ll put out
a hard cover book ” The Train World According to Al ” I’m sure it will sell a million
copies worldwide I can’t do any building now, my biggest layout was 15×20, HO
DC…Double main with 36 inch curves. I built a power pack that would handle
seven locos in consist although the rails got a little warm. I’m a retired loco
electrician Federal Inspector for Conrail. My favorite is the GP 38-2. 8250 as I was assigned to it …..You will never know how much you are appreciated RJL
when new.
Hey Dave, for the reverse loop: You can go DCC and use one of the many options available to make it an automated reverse loop.
I just returned my Digitrax AR1’s and got DCC Specialties Quad Frog AR1 instead. That’s because the Digitrax AR1 is an older generation auto-reverser which uses relays and they are too slow for the newer solid state controllers.
Digitrax AR1 is a good product but if you are buying a new reverser then it’s better to “future-proof” it. So you can go in for any solid state product (not based on relays).
Please be mindful of the fact that with a reverse loop, your train will arrive back at the switch with the switch being thrown the “wrong” way to receive the train back. Since I use Digitrax DS64 for switching, I am going to install Digitrax BD4 block detector to automate the switching so that the switch gets thrown back to the right position when the train is approaching the switch on it’s return journey.
Hope this helps.
I love long straight aways. Coming along nicely thanks for sharing
Good luck with the project Bob , you should be able to get a few ideas from some of my video’s …then there will be 2 Dangerous modellers ? LOL …Dangerous Dave
I as well use NCE, and employ DCC Specialties solid state PSX circuit breakers for my power blocks, and PSX-AR auto reversing module for my layout’s reversing spur. As well, to get by the train length limitation for my reversing spur, I put a dab of clear nail polish in the gaps where the insulating joiners are installed at each end of the reversing spur. This way,, the reversing module senses the presence of the locomotive when it moves onto the rails of the spur and the metal wheels of the wagons/carriages are not able to bridge the gaps because of the insulating properties of the nail polish. Since I use just a dab of nail polish at each end-gap, by the time it dries it not only can’t be seen, it flattens out when the polish dries. If you go this route, you may have to adjust a timing CV for the breaker module adjacent to the PSX-AR to gain flawless operation.
Dave, I use a Digitrax auto reverser, I chose the new solid state version as it is quicker to respond, [only by microseconds]. Bit being solid state should be more reliable over time. easy to set up. I did my wiring of the isolation block in a different colour pair as that polarity will change with each train entering. Make sure the isolation loop [block] is longer than your longest train to ensure there is no conflict between entering switching to one polarity and leaving switching to the other. I think other brands do similar products, but the Digitrax is great and easy.
the bridges are really nice & the passenger train is as well, the whole layout is. good work, will look forward to seeing it finished.
Reversing Loops
If the trains have any lighting or electrical pickups along them, the loop must be longer than the longest train you will run. The loop must be isolated at both ends. In other words, you should put isolation joiners/fishplates on yours as the loop leaves/enters the point/turnout on both ends. Use a solid-state automatic reversing loop controller. When I built a reversing loop on one of my n-scale layouts, my Z21 controller’s sensor and circuit breaker were too fast for any reversing loop modules I tried. I am sure there is a good, fast solid state reversing loop module out there by now. Try this, NCE AR10 Auto Reverser. It may work for you.
I have 4 reversi g loops on my layout. 3 of them use Digitrax Ar1 auto reverser. There are easy to install. It has a potentiometer to set the trip current. Once installed and current set correctly, they work great. When my locos cross over the insulated gap, there is no delay at all. I have a solid state everser by Nce, the Ar-10. It works great as well. Again easy to install. Just make sure that your loop of track is isolated electrically on both ends or you will have a short
a labor of love. its nice to see someone that is so into trains.
Thanks to all for the great answers to DCC reverse looping. Finally answers from people how have actually done it . Thanks again. And Al you are the Greatest for posting entries that solve problems.
our club is using PSXX AR for auto reversing. it seems to be the best on the market. it is also a circuit breaker. easy to adjust for current sensing train detection as well. if your loop is just a loop then any of the AR’s would work ok. if you have several areas involved in the loop like sidings then you may want to consider the PSXX AR.
All these nice tips on the “LOOP” I’m building a reversing “WYE” and need a little help on that if someone has set it up before.
Wow…… you guys have got some great train rooms……very jealous.
Great info on the reverse loop. is this method only for DCC???
Dave,
I’d recommend using a Digitrax AR-1 auto reverser for each reversing loop that you have. Just follow the instructions and you can’t go wrong. I have two on my layout that have worked flawlessly.
Yours,
Paul
For Gary M on Long Island, I have an MRC Auto reverse loop module installed on both a loop and a Wye. Just isolate the 2 legs of the Wye from the main line.