Here are photos of some of my rubber moulds (I must have about 80 different ones) the small trackside shanty moulds, I have about 4 or more of these as they can be put all around the layout and I can never have enough of these, just paint them different colors.
The items shown in the rest of the photos are:- vertical boiler, black horizontal boiler next to its mould, rock walls, shelving, drums, logs for my log cars and used at the log loading area, workbenches and wall racks to name a few. Will send photo of the shelving filled with odds and ends.
This photo shows 3 of the items made in my rubber moulds that have been painted and placed on my layout. I have different ones all over the layout where required.
From L to R, a small trackside shanty (red), a small sand bin for the sand house and an oil tank carrying oil for my oil fired locomotives.
A resin cast shelf rack filled with odds and ends and some of the details (castings) inside a 2 stall engine house.
Everything on my layout is in HO scale in case anyone asks.
Method 1: the cheapest one with readily available silicon.
Once a master is made – does not matter of what material it is made of, I mount it on prestick (blue tac) usually, to any flat surface (I use a piece of glass). I bevel the bottom edge up towards the master. I normally have a few masters ready for this process. Helps when waiting for the silicon to dry.
Use a paint brush and paint a thin layer of Vaseline over the whole master as well as the blue tac and be sure to get it in all the crevices. This acts as a release agent for the silicon.
I use clear silicon (bathtub sealer) from a tube and squirt it (starting at the bottom and work it in with a lot of pressure) all around the master working up to the top and seal it across the top. Put it on fairly thick all the way up and on the top. Then play the waiting game for the silicon to dry (usually about 3 to 4 days).
Once the silicon is dry, it is very easy to peel it off the master. (Vaseline).
I use mainly plaster of Paris to fill the mould and make as many products as i see fit. The mould will last indefinitely (I have some from 30 years ago and still as good as new). The use of plaster of Paris allows me the put dents (if for instance if it is a motor vehicle and remove fenders, bonnets, doors etc. It is also very easy to stain or paint as required.
Method 2: a more expensive way and not so readily available product.
Use a 2 part silicon (pink) usually bought in 500mil tins with the equivalent hardener. Be careful of shelf life.
Again mount the master on a flat surface and build a box around it leaving about one inch all around it as well as above it. Make sure that it is ‘watertight’. When this is done, mix up the two part silicon according to the specs of the product and then pour into the mould box right to the top of your box. This usually takes about an hour to dry. After that, remove the box completely from the master and you will now have a mould.
You can fill these type of moulds with a 2 part epoxy or plaster of Paris. Be aware that these moulds do not last as long as the ones described above if using epoxy.
I will try to find the photos of some of the moulds that I made and send in for posting.
Hope this help in making rubber moulds.
Many thanks and keep up the excellent work.
Cheers for now
A huge thank you to Brian. Now take a look at the
ebay cheat sheet, and look at the price of some of the scenery – I think Brian really is on to a winner. And it looks stunning too.
I hope you can all see why I put Brian in the hall of fame. He was also very helpful with the guide too.
What’s more, Brian is really quick off the mark when it comes to answering questions. So feel free to post some below.