Here is a new tip I found out about the other day. I tried it and it works WONDERS!!!
First. I used the “QD contact cleaner” on my engines and locomotives. I spray a light rag or paper towel with this stuff. Then I put the towel on the track and run my engine or loco over the wet part at full speed holding onto it so it doesn’t run off on me. I run it back and forth till the wheels are clean. You would not believe the gunk and buildup that comes off the wheels. Then I turned the loco around and did the same thing for the rear wheels.
I then did this same thing to each and every car. The buildup that came off the wheels was amazing.
Then I took a rag and rubbed all the track down with this contact cleaner.
Second, I then fashioned a block with 2 scraps of wood and a piece of roadbed cork and hot glued them to make an applicator.
I took the “2-26 multi purpose precision lubricant” and sprayed it onto the cork part of my block I made. I then rubbed it along the entire track system. The rails shined up like a new penny.
Now my trains crawl at low speeds and run MUCH MUCH better and the best part is the guy who told me about this system hasn’t cleaned his track in over a year and it still runs like a top. This system is supposed to last MONTHS before you have to clean again! I cannot believe how much better my trains run.
I used to use goof off or goo gone, but this is much better.
To clean my engines I used to use rubbing alcohol on the wheels but it just took off surface dirt. I’ve noticed by using the QD contact cleaner it took off all the gunk and build up from over the years.
I am very very happy with the results.
Here are pictures of the product I bought in a hardware store, the block I made and an example of the rag with dirty track stains on it so you can see how it cleans.
Best of luck to all fellow Model railroaders with your track cleaning!!!
I found my system I will be using from now on!!!
Cal from Oregon USA”
My name is Ben and I’ve enjoyed your emails for a few months.
Thought I would share some pics of the switching layout I’m building. It’s 8×4 and HO scale. I haven’t had a layout in 20 years. I’ve always wanted a switching layout because that’s my favorite thing about trains, switching yards and industries.
Keep the great emails going!
Here is a little tip for all of the model railway fans out there.
Before throwing out that old mobile phone, modem, Christmas tree lights etc or whatever. Keep the power supply back (unless its faulty of course) as many of these are rated at 12 volts DC and most are also rated at about 500ma (half an amp) to 1 amp sometimes you might find them rated at 1500ma.
these are great for powering station or building lighting when using LED lights. The centre pin on a female jack is generally the positive and may be marked on the wire with a tracer marking, making it easier to cut of the female jack and identify the positive wire.
I have several of these around my small Lionel O gauge layout. works a treat. My Modified Hobo Hotel with all the electronics I added is powered from an old Power adaptor rated at 1 amp. (shown)
keep up the good work with the site
“Alastair–always look forward to your daily e-mails with questions and answers from other modelers…so when I ran into a problem I figured that someone in your group might have the answer to a problem I’m currently having.
Here’s the situation: I’m adding a 72×76″ extension to the existing Damnit RR using Atlas snap track and flex track. There is only 2 ways to connect it to the existing tracks and they are colored BLACK in the pictures and can’t be moved. The new section must have a 22-24” radius in order to take existing cars and there needs to be sidings to park the cars when not in use, yet not block the whole line. In addition to providing storage space, the extension must create a way to reverse a complete train in both directions–i.e. eastbound has option to become westbound and vice versa.
The first picture shows the complete layout with the extension with a proposed solution, the second is just the extension itself.
(all pics are clickable)
As you can see, the proposed ladder portion in light green doesn’t meet the requirements and involves a lot of back and forth shuffling of a single car at a time. That doesn’t work because one of the cars is the SP triple unit (coffee shop, diner, kitchen–28″ long) and can’t be unhooked. The same applies to the rest of the SP units which are double units of 19″ long each. They too can’t be uncoupled.
Any ideas your members can provide would be greatly appreciated. I’ve been working on this for weeks and am at a complete loss.
Thanks so much
A big thanks to everyone for today’s post.
And who can help Terry? Sometimes we all get problems that vex that the most seasoned modeler.
That’s all for today folks… except for this message:
All good things must come to an end. And today is nearly the last day to grab the Beginner’s Guide.
It’s up to you if you want to grab it or not – but don’t forget it also comes with this free tunnel print.