My N gauge 2016/17 Project shown early January has reached a point where I am happy to show off the improved scenery and running sessions under improved lighting.
But knowing how everyone wants information on the layout, I will get to that first.
The baseboards at their widest measure approximately 90” * 72” (229cm*158cm) they are built using Sundeala (Compressed newsprint) model board and work round a built in wardrobe with a solid wall, plus an access hatch. The track I use is Peco Setrack and their flexi track, the underlay is ready gravelled with added matching gravel between the tracks. I also use a 1.5 turn helix at the right of the layout to get the height.
Tracks are accessed by lifting away portions of the scenery, for instance the four plaster panels that make up the moorland on the left, are not fixed so lift away. To the right over the helix the castle panel lifts away and in the centre the lake lifts out. One thing I will mention here is that I do not plan a new layout by planning ahead on paper but do it in my head allowing me to alter things to fit as I go along, so don’t ask for a track plan please.
Now the layout has the mentioned moorland to the left with sheep and horse riders, with tracks circling around the lake/ camping grounds below, that seem to have come together quite nicely with boating, shop, toilet block and bungalow and even an adventure playground for the kids to enjoy when I populate with more people / tents etc.
To the right a brand new top board over the helix has a rather nice little ruined castle on top of it’s rocky perch which has turned out better than I hoped. The castle is a Noch item ordered through Amazon as I haven’t seen them on normal retailers websites. The castle appears to be made of cork but nicely moulded.
The two tracks run along the long section to the front of the layout with 8 sidings and twin track engine shed with the twin tracks showing behind. As someone mentioned on the last post it is difficult to tell which tunnel the train will emerge from which adds to the fun, unless you are looking for a derailment J
I hope you will excuse the occasional shakiness as it is difficult to keep the camera steady as you move around
Note in the back left by the hill a small lake and to the right of that note the start of a feeder stream for the big lake. There is still a lot to do but so far I am delighted by the results to date. Let me know what you think.
Eric (Leeds) UK”
“I’m new to your great site. I’m 66 years old, retired, and lucky enough to have my first Lionel 027 set from 1951. I’ve added to it past few years. Theme is Des Plaines, IL where I lived as a child.
Time frame is 1949 to 1961. The train set, layout, buildings, scenery, etc. sort of defined itself because Plasticville buildings from then look just like Des P looked then. Train station, bank, first McDonalds rstd., O’Hare airport which was in Des P until Chicago annexed it, and lots more. Des P was known as “City of Roses” back then and was primary local industry, so of course I have greenhouses. Lots of little touches. I find inspiration in your postings.
Sometimes the simplest things take a great deal of time. All I wanted was a bunch of lines scribed on a piece of aluminum. Being retired means I can do whatever I want as long as I don’t spend any money. Years ago I made an X-Y table to fit on a drill press. It never worked as it was not strong enough to work as a milling machine. I need eight pieces to fit in square holes on the side of a “O” guage model diesel. The lines need to represent louvers and are fifteen degree slats in real life.
Here is what I made using a support for a dremmel tool. The aluminum square tube was an interesting piece of junk I saw at the steel store. Yes I wasted a buck. I brought it home not knowing what it might become. I used a couple of 2×4 boards and cut semi circles out of the sides at about 15 degrees and made slats to go at the top and bottom to clamp on to the drill press. I used 3/8 threaded rod to hold the whole thing together. T-Y table uses a forty thread per inch screw so that each division of the collar id one thousandth of an inch. I carefully milled the aluminum until I got what I thought might work. I will cut squares out of the section to then glue into holes I will make in the model. Making this by hand using automotive bondo was just too crude and did not work well.
That’s all for today folks. Thanks to everyone – especially Eric, I enjoyed his video.
And if it’s got you chomping at the bit to get started, don’t forget the Beginner’s Guide.
Keep ’em coming folks.