Bill’s been in touch with his HO scale switching layout.
Well, I say, HO scale, but he’s also playing with his others too, as you’ll see:
I’ve been busy still working on scenery for my small O/On30 layout (4-1/2 X 14 feet) but took some time to make sure my other two layouts were cleaned and running.
I know we all have opinions on track cleaning and there is no one best method. The best method is what works for each modeler.
I used No Ox IDA Special last summer and now a year later I just have given the tracks a lite wipe down and I continue to have great results with very good electrical conductivity.
Having given everything a lite wipe I decided it would be fun to run all three layouts. I had great fun watching all three layouts perform very well and enjoyed cool sips of lemonade as I sat back and watched and videoed.
In addition to the O/On30 I have the 4 X 16 foot HO scale switching layout and the 3 X 15 N Scale layout.
Each layout has different themes and scenery to keep it interesting. Each layout is mounted on castors so each are movable in my garage.
I’ve attached video of my afternoon of multi scale running. I will do this once in a while in my one man empire and enjoy the fruits of my fun filled labor.
All the Best
Bill in Virginia”
A big thanks to Bill for sharing his HO scale switching layout. You can see his last post here, which is just as impressive.
Now let’s move on to George – who also mentions Bill in his missive.
And as his post is on turnouts, it makes sense to follow Bill’s switching layout with it:
This is a rudimentary wiring diagram to show how I powered my turnouts.
One must install the microswitch so that when the servo arm turns to turnout it hits the switch lever and the light, then turns from green to red.
The tester mounts on your panel or if you have a very thin facia only the dial can show. This is the way I did it.
There are many ways to skin the cat but this is a very strong turnout method- guaranteed point throw which I will use from now on. Puny solenoids and expensive tortoise motors that do not work when you need top mounted gear are out.
This is cost effective and I hope long lasting.
For all you computer guys hooking up Arduino and other gizmos for computer and DCC operations is a can do and you eliminate the tester but substitute other stuff.
The main point is a $2.50 servo with metal gears, driven by a 4.5 V source is the best motor to turn any gage turnout.
I mentioned in a response that I was toying with a box on top and next to the turnout that housed the servo and a small green/red light.
I really don’t want to go under and do the tortoise dance- more like torture trick- and I can mentally accept the box on the layout which could look like an electric cabinet.
You young-uns can go below and do the torture trick which is the preferred method and this scheme is no harder than a tortoise, cobalt or other hidden motor and when your layout demands no ugly contraption below the impact on top aint so bad.
Real clever guys, like Bill of Virginia, can remotely locate the servo in a house, hide the push wire, and really blow the minds of the gentry. You have some power to play with.
Servo mounted vertically on an S scale defective turnout – The turnout behind it was defective too. I put a kink in the rod to take up a little mismatch between servo throw and point throw but it works like a charm.
Tester on the left, servo on the right.
That’s all for today folks. A big thanks to Bill and George.
Please do keep ’em coming.
And if today is the day you decide to join in on the fun, the Beginner’s Guide is here.