I had been using Sea Foam to make trees for my layout and have been very pleased with the results, but have been looking for a cheaper option. Yesterday whilst sitting in my garden I noticed our Smoke Bush ( Cotinus Coggyria) had what looks like a viable alternative. The ‘flowers’ have some tiny seeds which need to be snipped off, but my first attempt, using hairspray and scatter, shows promise. Maybe needs a trim, some more scatter and placed in a group. Obviously I don’t know yet if they’ll stand the test of time, but at the moment they seem pretty robust.
I have already used Martin’s PDF to make a railway tunnel.
Here is the result of my effort, just finished yesterday.
Just a pole update. I made up plastic insulator’s. Suppose I could have done a better job on them. If you want the how and what to use to make these I will send in the how to.
And lastly, who remember’s Eric’s layout?
Eric has been kind enough to send in this follow up:
I thought after the amazing reactions that came from showing my layout that some might like to see a bit of the construction side as I rebuilt the layout, it might hopefully help some find a way round obstacles.
Picture 1 The helix
I had to expand the side shelf as I needed 29 inches for the helix to fit it in as it uses third and fourth radius Peco track, the Sundeala board shaped to take over from the helix swings the track 90 degrees to go over the much lower track the helix itself has had a seven passenger coach Deltic climb it with ease and even the lower sharper curves don’t cause any problems. The helix was purchased from modelrailwaysolutions.co.uk and they do them for OO or N gauge.
This shows the overall track layout round the solid wall I have to contend with but it does give you plenty of time to adjust things before you run engines on it but I always try get at least one bit of track wired to test it first. The underlay I got from Gaugemaster for the exposed parts is ready gravelled so all you need is the same colour ballast to fill in the gaps between tracks.
This shows the top board over the helix, note all the markings and the buildings so again you can figure out the best ways of designing it, the building site is fixed as I have side and top access here. I usually mark where the building will stand and then I can work without the buildings in the way. ( Note the helix below).
This is as the top board takes shape, on the farm itself, note the planned lines don’t always help and have to be adjusted to suit. In this pic the farm takes shape.
Shows the join between the scenery and the top board and how I used a hillock to hide the joins. You can’t hide them all but you can hide a lot
Thanks to everyone who has contributed. If you’ve got a any pics or tips you’d like to share, just email them in to me (just hit reply to any of my mails).
And if today’s missive has got you itching to make a start, side step all the usual mistakes with this guide.
That’s all this time folks. Please do keep ’em coming.