Just a quickie today because I’m hopelessly short on time.
I get a lot of mails from folk who to make their print out scenery look just like John’s, so that’s how these videos came about.
Here John has a made a new video showing us how to make a simple house look realistic:
The house John is making in this vid is from the house bundle, which is
That’s all this time folks.
Please do keep ’em coming.
Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.
Best
Al
PS
Looking for the Beginner’s Guide? It’s here.
Hi Al,
I absolutely love Johns enthusiasm when he builds things. It would be nice if more of the buildings were suitable for a British Layout. All seem very American.
With you based in Devon, some English styled houses and cottages would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Mac …
I know what you mean, Aan. I’m slowly transferring them all across from the old store: http://modelrailroadlayoutsandscenery.com/print_out_scenery.html
There are lots of UK ones there.
Hi John, Very good work you are doing, I was just wondering what Medication are taking with Red Wine, I did enjoy watching you make your house.
Chris from Melbourne Australia
John is GREAT. I bought a building because of John. Could you please tell what is Johns profession? And also is there pictures of Johns lay out?
Thank you.
ps I Look forward to reading your post in the morning with my first cup of Coffee. Please keep them coming.
Denis
Love John’s videos!
The Keith Floyd of the modelling world!
I love the landscaping as much as the houses. Well done in every respect.
Please tell us what kind of wine your drinking John. It seems too add to the wonderful video.
Thanks again great stuff
This guy needs to be in Hollywood doing special effects background!!!!…….. GREAT!!!!
Does the Sherry come with the cut outs or is that part of the upgrade package? It might help me as at my age; my hands tremble a bit and sometimes holding a ruler while cutting is a challenge.
White glue does the job, but I prefer “rubber cement” for some applications. Rubber cement is what it is referred to over here and is found in most office supply stores like Office Depot, Costco etc. Paste the two pieces with the rubber cement, let them dry until it is tacky to the touch and then align and stick.
Make a mistake? Just gently peel the pieces apart and do it over again correctly.
The advantage with rubber cement is that it is a contact cement. It never completely dries and if you get a little sloppy, just rub the sloppy part with your finger and it balls up for easy removal.
Change your mind 6 months or so, what ever it is stuck together will come loose with gentle pressure. Want to move something somewhere else, in six months, a year etc. Apply gentle pressure and the pieces will come loose. Again, just rub your finger over the residue and it comes up clean.
Several words of caution. Don’t leave the cap off, as it will evaporate more and more; eventually it will become a useless ball of rubbery stuff.
Secondly, and most important, is that rubber cement is soluble in carbon tetrachloride (CCL4), which the Feds banned selling over here several decades ago as it is now considered a carcinogen.
Inhaling it for long periods is not necessarily dangerous, but will leave you with one hell of a headache. The vapors will not burn if you expose the vapors to an open flame; it used to be a part of some fire extinguishers decades ago.
Enough rambling from this side of the pond,
Barry
Chesterfield, Missouri, USA
Makes me want to build another layout just using printed buildings. Love the videos John
Hi John,
Great videos! keep them coming.
Dave. Taunton up the m5
Could you paste the model on the card stock first then cut out the windows? Then print a second side on thinner stock and glue the whole thing together. Everything would all line up at once rather than setting each window.
For those of you who might be sloppy with rubber cement, here is a simple tip. When you rub off those little balls, stick them together, and then use the ball to rub clean your overflow. In the commercial art field, a rubber cement ball is referred to as a “mouse”. At least that is what we called them in the ancient days before the computer mouse. Additionally, using a mouse is cleaner than using your fingers, as any dirt on your fingers could be transferred to your project.
When placing a small piece onto a larger piece, it is common practice to use extra rubber cement on the background piece, and then use the mouse to remove the excess.
Another tip – if you place two pieces of wax paper under the upper piece, you can see where the piece is being placed, then hold one side securely while sliding the wax paper from under the other side. Then remove the second piece of wax paper.
Carl in Kansas
Pro nice work will make a great background bldg.
Con needs a haircut
Very very entertaining and informative! Your enthusiasim is contageous!
It would be nice if you made these houses in other scales beside HO. I’m in O scale myself. Shouldn’t be a problem to scale up using a computer. Thanks.
I tried one of the small houses and you are right about them being easy to build .
Are the older bundles still in the store or are they dropped after so long ?
I could use some railway stations both types freight /passenger along with some platform ideas , I am coming back to model Rail Road /miniature village building
I got tired of model aircraft and mainly R.C. planes so I’m back from the clouds !
I like your buildings !
George
John has a style all to his own. His ability to keep you humored as he’s showing the process of building his wonderful works of art. You can’t help learning from him as you’re being amused.
Best regards, Tom.
Thank you for that wonderful video.
Really like John’s videos… especially the extra touches. Hey John do you have a instruction video for the “House” that was part of a download including Apartments?