John’s been back in touch with some very good model railroad tips:
You’ll remember him from his last post, which included a very impressive lift bridge.
Here’s a pic to jog your memory:
But perhaps you’ll remember him most from his previous mountain layout:
Well, he’s been kind enough to send in these tips after I posted things were a little thin on the ground this end:
“Al,
A couple of quick tips.
1) Tired of ballast sand going everywhere but in between the ties?
How about painting the cork roadbed to look like ballast – paint it all grey, then dry brush black.
Looks pretty good, and no sand in the points!
2) Need quick and easy tunnel liners?
I make mine from 2” dense insulation board, easy to punch a hole with a hole-saw, then trim with any saw.
Paint black and trim as needed, as an example on several on my tunnels, 2 sections cut in half (can’t see the side closest to the viewer), hot glue and done.
3) Need a quick way to carve in strata rock on a cliff?
I use a course wire brush, and try to time the drying of the plaster so it’s not super hard, but won’t clog the brush.
Works pretty well I think.
More later.
John From Baltimore”
A big thank to John – some very useful tips.
I have to agree as well, I think his rock faces look spot on. And so simple too.
Now on to Rob:
“Hi Al,
I’ve got another video for you.
This time I packaged up all the track laying wisdom I have learned over the last 12 years of building layouts and laying track.
In all I pass along 12 items of experience. It has proven very popular on my channel.
I hope your readers can find a nugget or two that will help them.
Rob”
Thanks to Rob and John for sharing his model railroad tips.
Jim’s been back in touch with his HO scale DCC layout.
It’s not an update – it’s a completely new build, but you’ll remember him from his HO scale Cedar Valley layout.
Here’s what he’s been up to:
“Hi Al.
Jim coming to you again from Ontario Canada.
This is the new layout after the tear down of the old Cedar Valley RR and move to the new apartment.
Cedar Valley Railroad HO with DCC
The room size is 10×12 feet with door and closet at one corner. This happens to be the perfect size for my 2x 4 foot modules. You may have to adjust one module to fit your specific space.
The layout is designed to fit along two walls. The only problem I had was to keep the height below one window. The height turned out to be 38 inches with a 4 inch rise on the long wall.
This turned out to be comfortable to either sitting or standing. Height is something one has to determine to suit one’s own needs.
The system is powered by DCC. This setup plan can also be used with DC. I found this plan to be very flexible with the placing of turnouts with regards to bench work and future buildings.
This plan suits my space as we have moved into a rented apartment. I did not want to attach anything to the walls. Thus, it is constructed to be free standing.
I designed the plan to be either left as is or, added on at the end of track A and go back down and join the main line at some place. Or, extend track A to be a return loop back on its self.
The plan is designed to be an operating layout. All turnouts have to be switched by hand. This means you have to be able to reach them. You could power them if you so desire.
All electrical work is done at the front of the layout. The buss wires and feeders all come to the front allowing me to do the wiring without going under the layout.
Chapter #1 Bench work
The bench work was constructed of 1”x3 “pine wood. The modules are 4 feet long by 2 feet wide. That is the outside dimensions. This is the size to accommodate the foam panels which are 2×8 feet cut in half to be laid on top.
The corners were braced with small diagonals. The center strip is 1 x 2”.
Make sure it is flat with the top to support the foam. I have found that we have a tendency to make bench work too heavy in most cases, especially if you do not have to move the layout. This way of construction allows you to work one or two modules at a time.
The legs were constructed of 2 x 2 inch posts. I put four legs on the first module then just added two more legs as I joined the modules together. Here you can use any leg system you choose. The modules were bolted together with 3/8” x 3”carriage bolts.
Basic module patern
The back drop is 1/8th Masonite attached to the frame work. You can use any height you wish. I used 16” strips. The Masonite I used had white on one side so, I used this as the clouds with blue painted on it to represent the sky.
Foam work
The foam bed is just your 1” blue foam board glued to the frame. I use two 1” boards glued together instead of one 2” board. I found this allows me to go down 1” in elevation and still have a flat solid base. I found it easier to carve this way than to carve out the 2” foam. The foam sheets are then glued on to the frame.
Remember the frame was made the same size as the foam. I used foam construction adhesive as per instructions.
I attached the back drop to the frame before placing the bench work in place. If this was a free standing unit with walk around, this step can be done later.
Two things that I discovered are:
1. Beware, all lumber is not the same size. This seems to be true if you buy from different sources. This can be a pain when you go to join pieces together.
2. Two pieces of 1” foam are not the same thickness as one 2” piece. This can be a problem when laying track.
That’s all for now. Stay safe and happy modeling. See you again with chapter #2 Laying track.
Again, thanks Al for your sight. I know it can be frustrating at times, but 99% of the time it is excellent. Keep up the good work, because I know you love it.
A big thanks to Jim for sharing his HO scale DCC layout.
Over the years there have been quite a few folks who have discovered that not all timber is cut the same size – and indeed the same with the foam height.
It’s useful info…
If you missed the link to Jim’s previous layout, it’s here. Well worth a look.
Georg from Sweden has added to the collection of Z scale train layouts:
“Hi Al!
These are my pics from my Z- Layout. I hope some builders may be inspired…
Started with an approximate layout made with a program (Scarm) in the computer. I printed it out in scale 1:220 (Z). The plate is made of two layers of styrofoam, one 50 mm and one 25 mm glued together. The whole plate is 1250 x 590 mm The hills are of same material. I use an electric cutter and a scalpel to form the landscape.
There are 9 separated blocks and 11 switches. The “underground” is filled with wires.
The hills are painted with acrylic, first a base color, black/white/red mix. Then several layers of black washes and then washes in different colors until it looks right! Go out and take photos of the real landscape – you learn how it really looks and you will get lots of fresh air to!
After painting I use Woodland Scenics stuff for grass and bushes.
The trees are made of copper wire of different dimensions, the leafs are again Woodland Scenics. You may spend lots of hours making the scenery, adding lots of small details will always improve. My choice is almost no time in front of the TV!
All running vehicles will be weathered.
In the future this layout will be extended with a harbour. (I hope!)
Georg”
A superb layout from Georg – his wiring pic made me go dizzy! But I’m very pleased to have added to the Z scale train layouts.
