Well, I’ve had one of those weeks. You know how sometimes you think the whole world is against you?
But then I got this in from Ken, which put things in to perspective. Ken’s idea of patience, compared to mine, are wildly different.
The pics of the matchstick really does show how small this layout is. He must have the patience of a saint.
(His first post, by the way, is here.)
“G’day Al. Some time ago I sent in a few photos and a bit of a story on my T Gauge layout called “Briefleigh”, so called because it sits in a briefcase.
I built it purely as a novelty display item for model railway shows, and after several shows where it has run basically all day for two or three days straight, one of the HST locos developed a fault which required replacing the driven bogie with a new one. I’ve previously replaced wheel-sets, but not the whole bogie.
The bogie is attached to the power chassis by two small (very small) springs which also act as the power conduit from the wheel pick-ups to the motor. The springs have a loop at each end and these attach to hooks, one on each side of the bogie and then another on the top of the chassis.
You can just see one of the hooks at the top of the groove near the main gear.
I ruined one of the springs by stretching it slightly when I took it off, then it went “pinnggg”, never to be seen again. I have the new bogies and spare springs, now all I have to do is reassemble my loco.
If you’re are short on patience I would not recommend getting involved in T Gauge. (“T” stands for “three” because the track is 3mm wide. The scale is 1:450) Sorry if bits of the photos are a bit blurred. It was hard to get a complete focus so close, but you can see the size of the bits by comparison with a standard match. That tiny chassis contains the motor and the gearbox.
And now on to Carl. I love it when tips like this come in:
“I read about ‘paints to use on bare Styrofoam packing materials’. Apple Barrel, or other acrylic craft paint, works fine. To airbrush them can be a challenge – I have airbrushed them, but thinning with 90+% alcohol is a process that took a lot of trial and error.
To get to the consistency of milk it takes a multi-day procedure. I finally have my routine worked out, first I mix the color I want in a jar that can be tightly sealed, I use baby food jars mostly.
I then add about double the amount of alcohol as paint to the jar and stir for a few minutes, the paint is not going to thin readily. I add a half dozen or so BBs, tightly screw on the lid and shake vigorously for a few minutes, then I sit it on a shelf that I know I will pass several times daily, every time I pass the jar I agitate it for a minute or so. In 2-3 days it is thoroughly mixd and smooth enough to spray.
Here is a ’53 chevy I sprayed with paint not thoroughly mixed (the blue pic).
The keys are time and agitation. This rambler wagon is done in craft paint.
Laslty, some people have been asking how to leave comments. Just fill in the form below (you only need to leave your email address – which is not published – and a comment.
Then it’s held until the spam police approve it, then it’s published.
So go on, tell us what you think.
Please do keep ’em coming.
PS If you are new to the print out scenery – the video below pretty much shows what you can do with it.