Model railroad layouts plans

Kim’s been in touch – he shares how to replace your locomotive lights:

(Oh – and if the link in my previous email didn’t work for you, sorry about that, here’s the correct one: Harry’s layout.)

“Hi Al and modeler’s.This is to replace those 12 volt bulb’s in your locomotive.

To run realistic speeds i find the bulb doesn’t produce enough light.You have to run to fast to show it and normally looks a yellowish glow.

Ive replaced my locomotive lights with 1.5 volt Led’s. Less heat and more light at very low speed’s.

Photo 1 is the led and the 12 volt resistor.And next to it is the factory bulb lot’s of heat very little light.

Photo 2 is the light board in the locomotive.

Photo 3 is the already finished and installed front light with resistor and used shrink tubing to protect from heat and short.

Photo 4 is the factory bulb in the rear of the locomotive.

Photo 5 is the Led and the resistor soldered to the possitive lead of the Led.Dont over heat.

photo 6 is the finished light.

Photo 7 is the Led soldered in place.

Careful to make sure the 2 soldered point’s dont not touch and to use a object to scrap gently between to clear any unwanted stuff and make a clean connection.

Photo 8 is me holding the locomotive at super slow speed and show how bright during the day the Led’s work.

Now next time i am replacing the 2 mar’s light’s in front to real lights.

Basic soldering and a easy fix to spruce up your locomotive lighting. Going to love it at low light.

All Led’s and resistors come in a pack from ebay and cost .99 cents and free shipping for 20 colored led’s.

If any problem’s let me know.enjoy.

Kim”

Now on to Stuart:

“Hi Alastair,

Latest part of my 00 guage model town with the water park and the town pub.

I am really enjoying doing this, I made the pond from model water.

The pub has turned out better than I had hoped. more to come at a later date.

The stone wall I made from a length of cardboard and covered in PVA glue I then sprinkled fine pebbledash which I sived through a cheese grater; came out great.

Keep up the good work sending all these tips and great ideas from everyone.

Cheers

Stuart P”

(See more of Stuart’s layout from an earlier post here).

A big thanks to Stuart and Kim.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And don’t forget, the Beginner’s Guide is here if you want to stop dreaming and start doing.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

Greg’s been in touch with his 20×20 N scale:

“You guys have renewed my interest in working on my 20×10 L shaped N scale layout that I started years ago.

It models the Union Pacific Central Division Hub at Marysville, Kansas, about 1928.

I have a lot of work to do, as you can see from the pictures, but that’s the fun part!

Overview of the yards, which I simplified and shrunk to indoor size. That’s the “old” depot. A fancy Spanish style one was constructed in 1929.

Had to get in close to show my scratch built coaling crane and sand tower. The ash pit is dug in but not constructed yet.

I must have 40 more structures to build in the yards and industrial area nearby. More track to lay also.

Here’s the short leg of the L. You can see how I built the track base with three strips of 1/4” plywood curved and spaced apart.

I hand built the turnouts on the main line to a much gentler curve so my larger engines can take them easily.

I hope they come out with a 9000 series locomotive someday, I know they had trouble with the curves around here!

One turn around end is mostly done, needs weeds and finishing touches.

There are tracks! Everyone needs a tall bridge, even in Kansas!

The corn field lifts out for access.

The five story Pacific Hotel I built using DPM modular and scratch building techniques, it’s gone now so I had to do it from pictures.

A huge thanks to Greg for sharing his 20×10 N scale.

I do love it when the blog inspires people to start – and giving someone the enthusiam to carry on after a lull feels just as good.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More N scale layouts here if that’s your thing.

Bill’s been back in touch with his HO scale model railroad:

“Hello Al and fellow modelers

Been a while since I sent anything in but now that life has settled down a bit I’m focusing back on modeling again.

I do want to start off by saying a big thank you to Al and his blog. A few years ago I was an arm chair modeler but I happened across Al’s posts and it got me out of my chair and back into the hobby. I haven’t missed a post since and always enjoy the modeling shared by everyone.

My wife thinks I went a little overboard as now I have the 4X16 HO switching layout and the 3X15 N scale layout and I’m in the planning stage of a 4.5X12 O and ON3O layout.

For the HO layout I have scenery basically finished and now I’m going into detail mode and will be weathering cars and engines and finishing up a variety of small projects. While it’s mostly done it’s never done and Ive been enjoying operating the layout.

I’m addition to the pictures I have a link for a recent video where I do a walk through of the layout and talk about things I learned and things I’d do different if I did it over which I’m not going to do. I think I’ll get a lot more enjoyment switching before I make any changes.

Thanks!

Bill in Virginia”

Love seeing Bill’s HO scale model railroad updates. Hope you enjoyed it as much as me.

Now on to Frank. Thanks to everyone who helped him the other day.

If you missed it, he was having problems with a reverse loop.

Trevor also kindly sent in this:

“Hi Frank,

You actually have a simple problem seeing you are using DCC. Your module is a safe loop so no problem there. Unless I am badly mistaken you need the reverser on the module you are not showing with the insulated joiners on the turnout just by the edge of the board where the red lines are shown.

It will not matter then if the train comes off the other module wherever and which ever direction, the reverser will pick up a “short” and correct it for the next module
Make sure you insulate both rails in both directions at that one point.

Hope this helps,

Cheers from Australia

Trevor”

A huge thanks to Trevor and Bill.

It’s fab to see and Bill’s layout(s) becoming more and more detailed. Impressive stuff!

And to think, he was an armchair modeler, until he decided to bite the bullet.

So if that’s you, why let everybody else have all the fun? You can grab the Beginner’s Guide here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.