Model railroad layouts plans

Rich has sent in this fab 4×8 HO scale:

“Here is a little background on this project.

One of the more unexpected things to happen to me has been the amount of interest shown in my 4×8 HO scale project.

This was originally started as an answer to a negative comment on cheap 4 x 8 layouts with sectional track.

I was in between railroads at the time with no room for anything larger than this. What started out as a crude drawing quickly turned into something more than what usually comes to mind when the terms cheap, 4 x 8 and sectional track are mentioned.

To be honest, I decided that I would go as far as the budget allowed while using items not in high regard today with some modelers.

The goal was to come up with something that might interest even the more advanced modelers.

The original budget was set at $500 including lumber but will likely total out at around $600 after trees and some misc. items are added in.

A first for me was that I started documenting the build with digital photos from the start to its current status.

My previous layouts were only documented with one or two photos.

I have found that the best thing about this project is that I have been able to use my photos to teach and show others how I did things.

This has made me happy and while I could go on working on this layout the time has come to go on to bigger and better things.

A couple of small things will be done to get it ready for the charity sale it was promised to.

In its place will be my 3rd Division project, a monster of a railroad that has been in the planning stages for several years.

Rich”

A big thanks to Rich for sharing his 4×8 HO scale.

Next, Dave has been back in touch:

“Hi Al,

All the very best for Easter… It is very cold up here so what better than to spend a bit of time indoors up in the loft and run a few trains, have used the mini camera as well as my Panasonic, showing a few different trains running…

Regards

Dave”

Now on to Wayne, who is still working on his layout at quite a pace:

“I have the mountains almost ready for some wire and plaster.

Now if honest Doug my geolegest critic could tell what he feels I am doing wrong, I will take it under consideration.

I don’t think my spelling is too bad, but I am losing some words due to parkinson.

Now if honest Doug could toss me some quick tips that would be good.

Oh yes Robert Brady it looks like the goverment has instaled the underground mine/base, but you didn’t hear that from me.

At night when everyone is sleeping I work on the small things that I can do quitely, like the cattle loading ramp that will go with the old barn.

Remember old man Johnson has to sell most of his cattle

Thank you all,

the old biker, Wayne”

(Wayne’s last post is here if you want to catch up.)

That’s all for today folks.

A big thanks to Rich and Wayne.

After all these years it’s still fabulous to see your work in progress and wonderful creations.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you join in the fun, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.

Don’s been in touch with some model train tips – ignore them at your peril.

It’s very good of him to share it. He’s not alone, I often get mails like his:

“Dear Alastair,

Five years ago I started a layout in the basement of our house. It was made of plywood table sections. After completing all the tables we decided to move to a condo.

I was able to use the loft with an attached bath. Now to share all my mistakes.

1. I was able to use the tables after I arranged them as a jigsaw puzzle. This forced me to make a track plan that fit the tables. The curves were too tight. So, I widened the tables. This caused tight isles. Starting over should begin with a clean sheet of paper.

2. I decided on a mountain railroad. This allowed tracks to pass over each other. It smoothed out the plan and lengthened runs. The elevation change was 18 inches. Wiring leeds to the track were over two feet to get under the plywood table. Most switch motors were above the plywood and hidden.

I cut five inch access holes in the plywood for future access after scenery would hide them. Disaster. Putting my hand through the hole limited my view. It was dark and required temporary lighting. While they were wired before scenery, Changing to DCC took advantage of the other terminals. Don’t make a layout with elevation changes more than four inches.

3. Not knowing about DCC I bought many nice switches off Ebay. Some were even brass. While they functioned fine mechanically, many were a nightmare electrically. Because of DCC I had to replace four switches after the scenery was in. Also, DCC required more electrical drops. This required 24 inch drill bits to get from the elevated track and through the plywood.

4. Before DCC I had to limit train length because of some four degree slopes. With DCC I figured I could add helpers. One problem, helpers of different types than the lead engine ran at slightly different speeds causing a tug of war. They can be speed matched with a recorder or an oval loop. I had neither. So, limit slopes to two degrees or less.

5. The last straw. Because of the elevated track, the two ends of the track didn’t match and made this a point to point railroad. I had a return loop at the low end and needed one at the high end.

I had planned for this. I was going to go through the wall into the bath and loop over the bathtub. The bathroom was not being used. We had others on the main floor. Last fall I mentioned my plan to my wife, proud of my solution. She mentioned, as a soon to be widow, she would turn the train room into a sewing room.

Plan B. I had a lift section to enter the space. I added two more to make a return loop. I am too old to duck under (76) so I was continuously moving them. Misalignments, derailments, and a lot of work. So, I am ripping it out and starting over. I wish I’d know these model train tips before!

Here are final picks of a pretty but non functional layout before I start over. I hope to save some scenes in a functional plan. I will use all new track and DCC switches. No tables, max 2% slopes, no lift sections,etc.

Don”

A huge thanks to Don for sharing his model train tips.

(There’s more here if that’s your thing: Model train layout tips.

It just goes to show a little planning can go a long way, but in Don’s defence, sometimes the only way to start is to jump in with both feet. You might go wrong, but you learn quick enough.

Others plan and plan, but never ‘execute’.

Please do share your comments and thoughts on this below – I’d love to hear them.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you poke boredom in the eye, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.

Rob’s been in touch with his O scale tunnel project:

“Hi Al,

I fired up the inkjet printer again recently for another project.

I’m modeling O gauge with 027 track and curves, due to my space limitations. In my last update I had redone the front right corner of my layout.

The next area to tackle was the back left corner. I have been procrastinating due to limited access. I’m 6’5″ but even my arms aren’t long enough to reach to the back of a 4X8 sheet of plywood. So just like Bob in Virginia, I had to build a platform first. I had a scrap of 3/4 plywood and cut a couple of blocks of 2X4 for legs. I balanced one end on my ladder and I was ready to go.

So, on to the good stuff. I used your wooden corner tunnel prints and developed my own O scale tunnel and retaining wall to fit the available space.

O gauge trains need a lot of space on 27″ curves so I’m always watching my clearances near the rails. Here’s the first mock up. The outer line is the elevated track and the inner is ground level.

As you can see I am working under the elevated line so I did a lot of test fitting as I went along.

I printed and cut the wall sections as desired. I use matte card-stock paper and mount the prints to thin cardboard. I added balsa wood to the wall sections to add some detail. Extra pieces of the prints were used as well.

Next was to build the terrain behind the walls. I cut and carved blocks of rigid foam board to develop the hills.

Another trip up onto the layout to do a clearance check

Once I had the overall shape I liked, I mounted the tunnel to a piece of 1/4″ plywood. This way I could build it as a diorama and place it on the layout when I was ready. I covered the foam with plaster cloth and began to add ground cover and detailing.

I have a Lionel Lighted American Flag that I wanted to use on top of the hill, but it was too big to fit. I took it apart and set the flagpole and three of the LED’s right into the foam.

Once the flag was done I also added a scratch built light pole and started to get the diorama set on the layout.

I also wanted the road to look like it went somewhere. I found a print of a gravel road online that fit the bill perfectly.

Here’s the mostly finished product (is any project ever really finished? )

The last step was to put the elevated track back in place. I had to remove one of the supports so I made a small bridge to span the gap.

So there you have it. This was a fun project during a very cold and snowy February here in New York.

Thanks for all you do Al.

Bob in L.I., NY, USA”

A huge thanks Bob for sharing his O scale tunnel project.

You all know how much I love an update, and I love the way Bob has done this.

Course, I’m biased, but I think it looks fabulous.

If you want to buy the print out Bob used for this, it’s here right at the bottom.

All the prints are HO scale. FOr N scale just reduce the print size to 54%.

Most people play around with the print sizes.

Take Bob, he’s O scale, so asked him about that and he said:

“Al,

I went up 125% to get the proper scale. I based it on the tunnel height which is 11 scale feet. O gauge is loosely based around 1:48 scale.

I say loosely due to the various sizes of equipment built over the years. Especially post-war Lionel that was typically bigger or smaller depending on the model.

O gaugers have grown accustomed to these issues.”

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

Also, some of you have asked about the back drops. You can find them at the bottom of this post.

I really must get round to putting them in the store.

And don’t forget the Beginner’s Guide is here if you want to get going on your own layout.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.