Bob’s been back in touch with a great tip on model train table legs.
He show’s how to get your table level.
“In my last post I said I was going to do things right this time around.
So I got out my Bosch Pro Laser Level and identified that my new L-girder framework to take into account the slope in the floor.
The room originally was going to be a screened in patio thus the slope. I tended up full-blown 16’ x 28’ addition to the house. There is a difference of ¾-in in 8’.
So I needed my model train table legs to accommodate this.
I started with building an 8’ section and a 6’ section of framework. The two sections highlighted in this picture:
The red line represents where I used the laser. I built four sets of legs, two sets for each section, and setup the laser at the high point.
I made the first set of legs so the top of the L-girder at 42” and lined up the lase with the top of that set of legs and then swung it to make that height on the 2x2s for the other legs of that framework and built that set of legs.
In the videos I watched about L-girder framework they recommend adjustable feet for the legs so you can avoid the use of shims as much as possible.
I looked up leveling feet and they are expensive to my way of thinking. One of the videos suggested tee nuts and hex bolts. I bought two 25 packs of tee nuts at $6.98 each and a box of 50 hex bolts for about $14.00. I put them on the legs:
This will allow about 1-in of adjustment once the framework is put together which should be adequate since the initial height of the leg sets has been set with the laser.
After patting myself for saving by using hex bolts and tree nuts, I looked at the legs and thought: All the weight of the frame is going to be resting on four ½-in wide hex bolts. I studied the situation and decided I need to create wider feet for the legs.
My solution was to take a piece of 1×2-in left from the cross bracing and mark off squares and then use a ½-in forstner bit to drill holes in the center of the squares. The holes were the depth of the hex nut head.
I drove the bolts into the holes with a hammer. The dark strip on the bottom is a strip of whiteboard that I glued with contact cement with the smooth side down to allow the feet to turn easy on the carpet. Next I cut each block to make individual feet.
The finished product adds about 1and 1/2-in to the height of the legs.
As I go along I will submit updates and discoveries.
Bob, Virginia”
A huge thanks to Bob for sharing his tip on Model train table legs.
Some of you may think this is a lot of effort to go to – but as Bob found out, getting your bench / table level is critical.
A table that is not level, uneven or wobbly table will slowly drive you insane and sap all of the enjoyment from you.
I’m with Bob: tables that aren’t level are the work of the devil.
Please do leave a comment below and share your own insights. I’d love to hear them on this.
Now on to Dave:
“Hi Al…
Well my new Loco came this week with sound fitted, the class 67 from Hornby, and what a great runner it is, well pleased with it, so just had to share my video of her.
Also showing from last week the different size of Peco Track can be used together, a small piece of transition track can be used to join the 2 types up on a layout, I have used blue tack just to hold it down so it looks a bit on the wobbly side, but this is just to show as a demonstration.
Regards
Dave”
Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.
That’s all for today folks.
Please do keep ’em coming.
And if today is the day you claim your spare room or basement in the pursuit of having fun with trains, the Beginner’s Guide is here.
Best
Al
