Model train curve radius

Some of you will remember Rob’s Farland Howe layout. He has some wise words on model train curve radius and inclines.

I really enjoyed his video because it shows how you’ve just got to roll your sleeves up and get stuck in to your layout:

Dear Al,

Your readers always are interested in track plans so I have attached one. It is fully up to date and accurate to the best of my knowledge.

I started this layout about 4 years ago. I had come into possession of a DCC locomotive with sound. I did not know what exactly that meant when I bought it. I brought it home and set up a circle of track on the dining table and tried it out. I was hooked.

I started dreaming of layouts and thinking of what I wanted in one. After 4 months of planning and thinking, I finally decided on a flipped over dog bone where at one end of the layout the loop would go over itself.

To illustrate this to yourself, just take a rubber band and twist one end. This I thought would give me an exciting place where trains could cross over each other. I saw one like this once and thought it looked fun.

During this early period before I started building the layout itself, I had a 1200 mm x 2400 mm (4-foot x 8-foot) sheet of plywood on legs in my basement with a loop of track. That way I had somewhere to run a train or two and dream.

Next I determined that 4 inches (100 mm or 25 scale feet in my case) was safe not knowing just exactly what to expect, to allow one track to cross over the other. In the end it turned out to be too much. I am modeling England and realized later I only really need 13- 17 feet or 70 mm maximum in my case.

My scale is 1:76 or about 4 mm to the foot. Originally the locomotives climbed this on a 3 in 100 slope and also went around a 180-degree curve during this climb. It was okay for diesels but steam locomotives struggled. With 2 coaches they were fine, but 3 was a struggle and 4 was impossible. Eventually I changed that but not yet.

I came up with a track plan after 3-4 months and started building. When I got the track laid, I started scenery. I did notice there were some problems with the model train curve radius incline – I talked about earlier – but kept moving forward.

In retrospect, that was a mistake. When I was quite far along on that part, I decided to make an extension and put a tunnel and mountain at the far end. The dog bone got much longer on one end.

This worked well, but the old original curves were just not up to par. I realized I needed larger curves. The large radius curves on the new part really worked well but I wanted some bigger ones. That was when the Big Curve project was born. They are still there and work marvelously.

The inside track of the Big Curves is a 40-inch radius or about 1000 mm. They slowly rise at 1.5 in 100 except where the platforms are. It worked great. I was also able to take out some short curves in an S turn by filling in a small area on one side. I now had smooth sweeping curves on four of the 90 degree curves making up parts of the model train curve radius dog bone.

When all this was working smoothly I found myself yearning for longer trains. Howe street Station was designed for 5 coach trains, but I could not run steam trains that long yet.

The next project was the Shell Hill extension. I extended another 5 feet (1500 mm) from where the original troublesome curves had been where they went around the hill and installed foam inclines at 2%. When that was done I had the layout I have now except for some fine tuning, which includes the addition of the Far Moor line, the camping siding, the steam shed and the diesel maintenance building.

That is the story of Farland Howe. It runs smoothly now and trains up to 7 coaches regularly round its spacious curves. The layout has grown to 22 ½ feet by 13 ½ in a U shape.

The most important thing I have learned with my experience is that model trains pulled by locomotives can only reasonably climb an incline at 1.5 in 100 to 2 in 100. Remember in the real world where they needed much more traction, they put more motors on more of the wheels like on subway car and tube trains or keep the inclines modest. Model trains don’t allow multiple motors throughout the train yet. If you cheat on this rule, you will be making compromises from that point on. Your layout will have problems. It is the basic physics of coefficients, weight to friction. It is nature and you just cannot cheat. The other thing is loading gauge. No time for that one now.

The attached video is a little old. Some time has passed since it was made, but I think there are several valuable nuggets in to for newer modelers, particularly with model train curve radius. It also explains the Farland Howe layout and how it evolved over time. It is my journey towards what exists now.

Thank you Al for all your good works and giving folks who are starting out a chance to hear from folks with experience and have already made a few mistakes. It is sharing at its best. My advice, if it doesn’t work as well as you want, tear it down and do it differently. No need to live with it.

All the best,

Rob”


model train curve radius track plan





A huge thank you to Rob for putting the video together and writing the narrative.

Who would have thought, one DCC loco would lead to all this?

Well, that’s what it’s all about: making a start and enjoying yourself.

Inspired? If so the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

PPS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





model train answers

Faller bridge HO scale

Glyn has been in touch again with his Faller bridge HO scale – and it left me speechless. It’s not hard to see why.

I hope you enjoy this as much as I did. All images are clickable by the way.

“Hi Al – I’ve been traveling a lot lately but was awaiting the arrival of my Faller bridge HO of the Bietschtal bridge to complete the double main line addition to the back of my layout.

The tracks crossed my river-waterfall feature at a higher level and I needed  the 43″ span of this bridge to make the project work.

It finally arrived and I spent most of last weekend building this highly detailed kit 43″ long and 15” high.

I also needed to re-route my logging road through a side tunnel alongside the ravine so, inspired by John’s amazing use of your stone wall printout, embarked on a scratch built tunnel portal replete with curved stone abutment at the entrance to add some character.

That printout is amazing and probably the best piece of modeling landscape material I’ve ever purchased – truly incredible what you can do with it and a little imagination!

So here goes with the project step by step.

The support spans were built first – incredibly tedious as the catwalks have to be constructed within the bridge spans after everything has been assembled, the handrails being the worst part.

Faller bridge HO

Faller bridge HO

The Faller bridge HO stone arch supports added – these were a strange beige colour and not very realistic so I sprayed them and the bridge with gray acrylic primer then weathered the stone. The centre of the bridge sagged a little without appropriate tensioning of the support stanchions so I built a wooden frame to stabilize everything. Being 43” long this bends easily when lifted!

Faller bridge HO

The bridge’s stone portal were re-inforced with vertical pine struts painted gray.

The support spans with their concrete bases were reinforced with transverse pine blockes glued to the horizontal wooden base at a point where they would provide vertical tension on the main bridge deck to prevent sagging as in real life. That worked pretty well and leveled the deck nicely.

Then it was time for a trial fit into the river’s ravine. I added some styrofoam between the stone portal arches as a prelude to wrapping with Woodland Scenics shaper sheet for landscaping.

Then it was time to lower the bridge construct into the ravine for a trial fit.

Faller bridge HO

railroad bridge 5

railroad bridge 6



Back out we came and I started the landscaping by wrapping the vertical supports and styrofoam with Woodland scenics shaper sheet. This stuff is amazing – so easy to use, no mess and it can be moulded and bent into shape and re-worked until you are happy.Then I stapled it firmly to the wooden frame inpreparation for plastering and painting using the leopard spotting technique described by Woodland scenics.

I’d marked where the river flowed underneath the Faller bridge HO and started laying down river boulders and sandbanks. Then I leopard spotted the plastered shaper sheet with yellow ochre, burnt umber and Payne’s grey acrylic wash, let it dry and added clumps of colored lichen for bushes and undergrowth using a glue gun.

Faller bridge HO

Close-up of the weathered base evolving.

railroad bridge 8

The entire Faller bridge HO on the workbench. Plaster moulded rocks were added and painted, slowly building up the scene and rapids were painted in with acrylic water texture paste and white acrylic paint.Next came another trial fit. This was the empty gap between the track ends:

Faller bridge HO

I needed to make sure the added landscaping did not impede my ability to seat the bridge within the fixed endpoints of the ravine –thankfully it fitted in perfectly.

railroad bridge 10

So now I had the basic bridge construct landscpaed, I needed to add the decking and handrails along the main pedestrian catwalks, out it came again for the handrails to be added.

Faller bridge HO

railroad bridge 12

Next, I lifted the old logging company road and changed its direction to run alingside the newly fashioned ravine edge, together with a quick re-do of the landscaping – playground sand, various woodland scenics turf colours, undergrowth and bushes.

Faller bridge HO

That all worked out well but I needed a scratch-built tunnel portal where the logging road passes through the mountains to my next town, which has yet to materialize on the right hand side of the layout! So I measured and cut out a tunnel portal from a plywood off-cut, coated it with PVA glue.

railroad bridge 14

Then I pasted on the stone wall printout from your website, cut to size and adapted as John described using bits and pieced glued together to make it look confluent,

railroad bridge 15

I bent the excess over the edges of the insides of the tunnel entrance to give the 3-D appearance that John describes.

railroad bridge 16

I needed a little extra support on one side so, for added interest , I added a curved support base as a bulwark and pasted a strip of wallpaper to give the appearance of a curved abutment.

railroad bridge 17

Then I sprinkled on some sand and glued bushes and foliage before gluing it in place and clamping it on. I used another piece of waste plywood covered in paper printout to achieve the interior tunnel wall appearance. So here is a close up of the tunnel entrance.

railroad bridge 18

And here is the final Faller bridge HO inset showing the overall effect with all the bridges spanning my waterfall /river feature.

railroad bridge 19

Quite a deamnding piece opf medling but well worth the effort and it was tremendous fun getting it all done. Now I have to start building the mountains over the double mainline tracks and set up my backdrop (which should have been done first!).


Well, what can I say? An absolutely stunning ‘how to’ from Glyn, on his stunning layout.

But it gets better, this is just part 1 of Glyn’s narrative – so there’s more to follow next time.

A HUGE thanks to Glyn for taking the time and effort to share his Faller bridge HO. I can’t thank him enough.

I absolutely love what he’s done with the printable buildings.

And if it’s inspired you, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

That’s all this time folks. Please do keep ’em coming.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.





N scale train door layout plans

There’s quite a few N scale train door layout plans on the blog – and here’s another from Erik’s son:

“Al,

This is n-gauge built on a hollow core door. It represents a part of Cleveland, Ohio, where the railroads cross the river. The river isn’t cut out yet.

Today was the day that a train ran on my new layout under computer control.

I have 14 servos controlling turnouts (I have 16 channels available and can inexpensively get even more expansion capability).

I have 4 separate DC motor controllers to operate up to 4 locomotives simultaneously.

The servos and motors/locos are controlled using pulse width modulation.

Servos can be turned to any of 4096 positions. They are limited to +-90 deg meaning that I have ~0.04 degree precision. My motor controllers feed up to 12v and 2 amps each with 255 speed settings in both forward and reverse. My test loco doesn’t start moving until about 25% power (pulse duty cycle) but has acceptable speed control with the remaining range.

It’s a golden time to be an electronics tinkerer. I built all this for under 200 dollars. I can even remotely log into the controller computer over wifi.

For comparison, a cheapish two channel Digital Command Control power system costs $200 or more and won’t even operate the turnouts. I have a better system, and I can leave programs running to provide hands off exhibition of complex operation on the layout.

It is cork roadbed. It’s glued and then sanded.

The bridges were fun to build. I still need to paint and weather them.

I don’t mind you passing on my message, but I can’t imagine who would be interested.

I’m in the process of arranging industrial buildings and multiple spurs to add visual interest and operational complexity. I am also planning road underpasses and overpasses as well as a kit-bashed factory building that spans over the main line as informal “scene edges”.

There is a river that runs across the layout and is not shown (was not cut yet) in the photographs.

N scale train door layout plans:

n scale train door layout plans

n scale train door layout plans

n scale train door layout plans

n scale train door layout plans



“Al,

Once again I see a train which appears to be a runaway, possibly without an engineer. If modellers had an easy way to determine a train’s speed, that might help. Well, here is a tip which should help.

I came upon this table a while back. To use it, you need to measure out three feet (or one meter) of track. You also need a timepiece with a second hand. If you run N scale, HO/OO scale or O scale, this table will work for you. Place a marker alongside your track, then a second marker three feet away. Run your train past the first marker and time how long it takes to reach the second marker. Use the table below to determine your train’s speed.

TIME TO TRAVEL 3 FEET AT SCALE SPEED
Prototype Speed N HO O
5 mph 65 sec 36 sec 19 sec
15 mph 22 sec 12 sec 6 1/2 sec
25 mph 13 sec 7 sec 3 1/2 sec
60 mph 5 1/2 sec 3 sec 1 1/2 sec
90 mph 3 1/2 sec 2 sec 1 sec

If you double the distance, then double the time. This will give you a more accurate speed. 1 1/2 seconds goes by pretty fast.

I hope this helps modellers to adjust their scale speeds.

Carl in Kansas”


And lastly Stephen has been in touch again (his last post is here). He’s finished!

engine shed

fiddling yard

railroad engine shed

railroad layout yard

Thanks to everyone for today’s post – it’s good to see some more N scale train door layout plans.

It’s wonderful to see your layouts, warts and all, transform in to the finished article. And who cares how long it takes? Pottering on your layout is half the fun.

Don’t forget the Beginner’s Guide if you want to get off the arm chair and get involved. Who knows, you may end in the Hall of Fame one day.

Please doo keep ’em coming.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.





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