There’s quite a collection of urban switching layouts on the blog now – here’s a few of them if switching is your thing:
“When a family member was remodeling a home office I was offered a 2×4 table, which became the foundation of my N scale switching layout.
Brian”
“Hello Al,
I’ve been busy still working on scenery for my small HO scale switching layout (4-1/2 X 14 feet) but took some time to make sure my other two layouts were cleaned and running.
Bill”
“What I have included today are a variety of pictures from both the HO switching layout and my N Scale layout as well. The past month or so I am enjoying running both layouts and also adding in new details.
I have picked up numerous automobile kits in both scales as well as different road construction equipment.
Bill”
It’s has three businesses that I can switch rolling stock in and out.
The backdrop is from Backdrop Junction of rolling Pennsylvania hills. I was very pleased with backdrop.
The HO switching layouts track plan is somewhat modified from one I found on the Model Railroad mag website.
Charles”
“This area is from Wilmington to Bellirica. A local is assigned to this area. There are 6 industries. Rake’s Rock Works, monuments. Swift Packing, Brenda’s Ice Cream, Knorr oil, Goins Lumber and supplies, and the Bellirica Freight Station.
This HO scale switcher has facing and trialing turnouts and must get clearance from the dispatcher to enter the mainline for a run around to get the cars in the correct position. We have over the line trains running while the locals work.
Dan”
I shall keep adding the urban switching layouts to this page, as and when they appear on the blog.
These plans are a great way to get started – and that’s what it’s all about, making a start!
You’ll also see that some of the plans below are better than others for different reasons. It’s all down to what you want out of your layout.
If you enjoy the scenery side of the hobby, you don’t want the track to take up all the 4×8 space, because you’ll want to put in buildings, perhaps roads, streams or rivers… or whatever.
Or perhaps you just want to run trains? There are quite a few track plans that are suited to that.
Then there’s the folk who like to drive themselves mad with shunting layouts.
Each to their own and that’s the great thing about this hobby.
On the layouts below, each square on the plans is 6 inches. They are all 4×8 HO track plans.
This 8×4 layout is a simple as they get – a single loop with sidings. I like it because there’s not much that can go wrong, so it’s a safe bet for your first layout.
The outside curves are a little too close to the edge for my liking – it’s easy to lose a loco over the side if you run it too fast.
Here’s a great example of a simple double loop. You just have to be mindful though, the more track you have, the less room there is for scenery like building and roads.
If want to see just how much scenery you can fit on a 4×8 layout, have a look at Cal’s: 4×8 HO train layout. It’s packed full of scenery, but doesn’t look too busy. He’s got it just right.
This single loop takes up a lot of the table – but I like it just because of its simplicity. You can run your trains and shunt freight around too.
Now this layout looks a little messy as a track plan, but if shunting is your thing, it’ll keep you busy. But again, very little room for scenery.
This one seems a little too simple, right? But that’s the point. Simple is still fun – especially if you are putting something together for the little people to enjoy.
There’s very little running to do with this track plan – it’s more of a shunter. But, there’s bags of rooms for scenery. You’ll be surprised just how many layouts are like this, almost like moving dioramas…
Now we’re back to my fave – the good old solid double loop with sidings. You can run your trains for as long as you like and park the freight up in the sidings too. What’s not to like? Also those sidings give you lots of opportunity to add scenery like engine sheds and industrial buildings. Have a look at the printable buildings and you’ll see what I mean.
Here’s another 4×8 HO track plans double loop that ticks all the boxes as far as I’m concerned. I know there are people out there that would tut at the immaculate straightness of these double loops, shaking their heads and saying, “Tracks aren’t straight in real life.”
Well do you know what? They are right, but they are soon humbled with the age old mantra of all model railroaders: “My layout, my rules.”
Turntable are the best fun. They do take up a lot of room on a 4×8 HO track plan, but I think you have a focus for the scenery which makes it just work.
A solid variation of the 4×8 HO track double loop.
Having a single loop with a turntable does find you a lot more room for scenery.
A figure of 8 is always a safe bet for a first layout. A turnout on an incline (just after on the bridge) is probably not the best idea, but it does break up the layout a little.
My fave figure of 8 on the layout is probably Barry’s from all those years ago: Figure of 8 model railroad.
Another good example of a double loop. The only thing with them, as I mentioned earlier, is that sometimes the outside loops are too near the edge of the table/bench, so you can lose a train over the side if you go too fast, or just derail.
This may sound like a small point, but when you start paying top dollar for your locos, you won’t want them to fly off the edge.
Another nice double loop. Sometimes, simple is best…
A single loop gives you more room around the edges, and for sidings on the inside too.
Another double loop variation – personally, I really like this layout.
Here’s a small version of a double loop. I like it because there’s very little risk of losing your trains over the side and you have lots of room for the scenery.
This double loop is also one of my faves. It’s busy, but simple, if that makes sense.
And lastly here’s another variation of a small double loop.
As these layouts show, it’s all about what you want out of your model railroad. With a 4×8 HO track plan, it’s a balance between running trains, scenery and getting your head around the wiring.
My advice is just go simple at first.
Put down some track, run some trains, then take it all up and do another one. You’ll soon get a feel of what’s right for you, and how comfortable you are with the wiring too.
But perhaps the best thing about playing with the track, is it’s a start!
Dan’s been back in touch with more of his model train Santa Fe scenery – I do love how he used the waterpaints to ‘weather’ the scenery:
“Diagram of the layout with the outlined part that will show constriction and finishing look of the ceiling tile rocks.
This is the are to be done in the before look. The unballasted track is an unseen loop to “Denver” that is a holding /staging track for two trains that come and go at an interchange that is physically behind me in this photograph.
A ground level look. The track along the wall represents the Old mainline. When the early Santa Fe was being built they wanted it done quickly. Later when they had more money, a more gentle grade and curvature was done.
In photo 2 you can see a straight piece of wood. That will be the bridge taking the old line over the new line. The old line was a 4% grade and 18 inch radius. This was done on purpose. This forces me to NOT take modern locos up to the resort to come later. Only B truck locos and the 2-6-2 steam loco can use the old line.
A look from the other side looking back toward “Bovine” in the distance. The junction of the old new line is in the far distance. The unfinished part in the near part of the photo will be the Chromite mine. Chromite is use to make chrome steel. This mine uses the old mainline.
There is a lot of info here. In the US we usually have a 2 week break for Christmas. (I taught school) The part that has already been colored, I did during that break. I learned how to do the rocks doing this part. It became much easier after that.
You can see the Chromite mine in the distance on the upper level. What doesn’t show is the 4% grade and sharp curve going up to the mine level. There are some low rocks hiding that. You just see the trains as they go up. The disguise of the rocks between you and the trains makes it look much better.
You can see how much cleaning will need to be done once the rocks are in place. You can also see the control panel for the mine area. The white lines are the block for the mine and the red and yellow lines are the new mainline.
A better, although slightly fuzzy, look at the mine.
A little jump ahead. The unballasted track is “Denver” and is hidden storage.
Here is an example of “Weathered” rocks. I never use wire brushes to do the weathering. As mentioned in my “clinic”, I dab on the watercolor paints and let it soak in.
If they are to be weathered, I go back over the rock face GENTLY rubbing the rock faces back and forth. If the brush is too stiff it wears away too much tile. The wet tile rubs away very easily.
To get a natural look of the rocks I use broken pieces to simulate falling rock.
Another example if broken or falling rock.
I made the camera from pieces of a KD coupler box.
I find perspective hard to do. For my road to come in and out of the scene I had the road curve around the rocks in what looks like a natural crack.
Exiting the scene.
Notice the natural erosion to the right of the bridge. I modeled the dry season.
The railroad built along a dry wash . The old mainline it just above the wash.
Let explain how I did the detritus and small rocks. You can spend money on this stuff. However, plain old kitty liter work just right. The fallen rock should be the color of the rocks above and around the base of the fall.
Use the same color you used for the rocks. I had some old large coffee cans. Put the paint mix in the can. (Remember we do not use the paints straight from the craft paint bottle. We diluted them.) My wife sacrificed a pair of old nylons. (She sacrifices a lot to put up with me.)
Put the litter in the nylon and dip it in the paint for about 15 seconds. I spread the wet litter on a piece of window screen and let it dry for a few days. Break up the clumps. If you want you can screen out for various sizes.
Once the rocks are in place. Lightly spray a mist of water over them. Next I use a 50-50 mix of white glue and water and slowly drizzle it over the rocks.
Here is the new main line in the gap in the rock and the old water channel. The old line is above.
My model train Santa Fe era is roughly 1958 to 1961. I do cheat a little as you will eventually see in a video to come. The Santa Fe had some active steam up to the end.
My Broadway Ltd. 4-8-4.
The whole shebang!
I hope you liked this set.
Dan”
A huge big thanks to Dan for taking the time to share his his model train Santa Fe scenery – the final pic really does show how effective his techniques are.
If you missed how he makes his scenery, it’s here:
