We’re going to start with a quick heads up today – and it’s also the reason why today is just a short post.
I’m drowning in the stuff life throws at you at the mo.
So if you’ve emailed me, and I haven’t replied, that’s why.
Please bear with me – I’m doing the best I can, and going as fast as I can…
I get a blizzard of emails everyday (very few of them are stuff I can use for posts).
Now back to business:
I was inspired by John’s recent “how to” on building with printed scenery.
I fired up the inkjet printer and got started on the tunnel walls using his techniques.
So far so good I think.
I made the first panel on the face removable with some velcro so I can access the wiring behind.
Wanted to share some pictures of the progress to date. I will send you some more updates when I get the top done.
A huge thank you to Bob – of course, I’m biased, but I think his tunnel looks great. So quick and easy too.
That’s all this time folks. Please do keep ’em coming.
And don’t forget if you’re still sitting on the side lines, there’s only way to get involved, and that’ by making a start. That’s why the Beginner’s Guide is here.
PS Latest ebay cheat sheet here. There’s a silly amount of HO stuff on it at the mo.
Bob’s railway tunnel was fantastic. I love to see people working with O gauge post their work. I too work with O gauge trains since that is the gauge I started with as a boy. Well done, indeed.
Always great to see stuff from fellow “high railers”
Amazing work.. Love it… Which print out did you start with?
This make me want to add a room to assemble my O and Standard gauge equipment on a real layout. Currently I have floor level modular trackage..
BZ to Bob
I opened the newsletter with a sigh because most often it concerns HO , sometimes N, and rarely O.
Today, I saw 3-rail track; hooray!
I made two quick and dirty layouts for Christmas in 2012 and 2013 using cardboard to build my risers and tunnels. First one was a 4X8 on plywood atop a pool table. 2013 was 4X7 built atop a permanent frame designed for my permanent layout I have been working on the last couple of years. I have a Marklin HO layout with one digital loco and two non. Hoping to convert the two to digital so operation and wiring will be simpler. I also have an N scale loco that I plan on creating another Christmas layout with.
I utilized some printed stone wall effects such as Bob’s above for my walls around tunnels and tunnel facing in addition to bridgework. Even had a Santa flying over first year.
That is certainly a quick way to add walls such as Bob did and looks great also.
I work at the other end of the scale – N scale – and am doing a tunnel with a similar built-up approach. It has a curve; keeping the clearances has been a challenge. Comments/observations from others who have done a tunnel with similar approaches would be appreciated. What technique did you use to maintain a uniform clearance going around the curve?
Pretty neat, it reminds me of the real huge stone construction in Europe
O gauge looks so toyish to me. The use of only a few ties on the sections of track. The engines and cars look so unrealilistic. Can you tell I’m an HO fan? Much more real-like and better to build layouts with. Sorry, HO for life for me.
great work nice detail.
Re: N scale tunnel. This will work for all scales. To find the minimum clearances around any curve, take the longest car that you are going to run through the tunnel, hold a pencil at the car’s mid point on the inside of the curve and trace a line all the way around the curve. For the out side clearance, place the pencil at the out side corner on either end of the car and draw a line around the curve. These lines will give you the minimum clearances plus a little extra (half the thickness of the pencil that you use). I hope this helps with your tunnel project. Tim
Looks fantastic!! I love tunnels, they give such realism. I model. ho scale . But have also liked O scale as well.!!!
Tommy, Boo to you. Stay off this site with your negative issue. A guy deals with the scale that is perhaps his only source.
I agree with BB.
I agree with Gerald. There’s no reason for negativity.
i agree i model in s scale……….still like to see 3 rail
Take it slow and easy Al. And thanks for all you do on the website.
Believe it or not. I don’t have a layout or room to build one living in a mobile home in Southern Florida. Back in the day, I did have and HO layout.
When I was a young boy, my farther had a Lionel layout in the basement. Which my two brothers and I destroyed using the train in the backyard sand pile.
I do like you site and looking at all the fine work people put into there layouts.
Many of us modelers cut our train teeth on 0 and 027 guage train sets, so it is nice to see it continuing, and Bob is certainly having fun and doing good things. Constructive criticism/recommendations are welcome, but negatively is best handled by just not posting.
I used the ✏ technique for my clearance design, and a removable Mt top to observe the clearance first hand. Best to give some leeway in case you get a longer piece of rolling stock or engine.
Take it easy Al, keep your sanity
Tommy Already did my job. I wouldn’t have been as course as he But i totally agree with his voice on the 3 rail tieless tracks. Replace with new style more ties and anodized black rails if you must stay with O scale
HO or no go!
Bob, Looking Good! Lets see the finished layout, I always had Lionel Trains and enjoy them! Grew up on Lionel Ho Think they are sharp, But enjoy Lionel O scale / 027. If you want to see some fantastic layouts take a look at OGR Forum its a great site! God Speed! (OGR Forum Sitka after our Husky)
Bob, stick with what YOU want in scale. I have both 027 and HO. I like my 027 more at this time. I like being able to “straighten out a curve” piece to “fit” whatever i need to fit into my track design. I run a steel wire thru inner rail then only partially straighten it in a 3 inch vice. Then the center and finally outside rail. Need to do this three times at least so you do not kink the rails. It allows track design like using flex track but cheaper. I also flipped the switch solenoid onto bottom of switch so top is clear of everything but 3 wiring posts. Have to build on a 1 inch foam base and need a pair of switches for this.
Bob, forgot to add this to previous comment. By putting switch gear underneath, you can run normal sized O scale engines and cars as there is no solenoid on top of switck to hit and cause derailment..
Looks good keep up the good work.
Like seeing other 0/027er,s postings. Your Tunnel and Wall construction and detailing looks great. After 20 years I finally have the time to make layout permanent not just for Christmas. Thanks for the post.