Bob’s been back in touch – his last post is here.
Just have a look at his wiring!
The adage “necessity is the mother of invention” holds true.
In setting up my signaling on my new layout, I am using three-headed signal masts.
Telephone wire works great for these since each signal has a Black ground wire and Red, Green, and Yellow wires for the LEDs and that is what phone wire has.
That makes it easy to run wire from my signal control panels to the signals (first picture).
Now the IR sensors I am using only use three wires: positive, ground and data. I could use phone wire again band just not use the green wire, but I decided to use separate Red, Black, and Yellow wires.
It was going to be more work than using three different spools instead of one phone wire. Then the light came on.
I fashioned a spool rack using a ½ in dowel and some scrap wood(picture two).
It works great. I just tape the ends of the three wires together and pull the wires together from the control panel to each sensor.
The spool rack is also a great way to store wire and it is portable.
Here it is on the floor where I am working but I also use it on my workbench when I am putting together and wiring the dwarf lights for my turnouts.
Bob in Virginia”
I have been enjoying your posts for a couple of years now. So it’s probably time I contributed something. As well as the modelling and running a layout I enjoy working on the controls side of things.
With DCC loco’s the reading and changing CV’s becomes tedious if you have to remove the engine and put it on a programming track each time. So I devised a simple improvement.
I made a section of track isolated and wired it to a switch that can connect either to the running output or programming output of the controller.
I simply run the engine onto the isolated section ( switch set to run) then switch to programme, read and change CV’s. Then switch back to Run and check it out.
I never have to takethe engine from the track.
The diagram below shows a simple installation using a double pole double throw switch.
The second diagram shows how I added LED indicators. The resistor value depends on how bright you want the LED. between 270 Ohm and 1k Ohm will be ok.
As the track voltage is alternating the LEDs can be connected either way.
And now some pics from Cassio. His last post is here.
He’s a man of very few words, but we’ll make an exception again because of the language barrier:
That’s all for today folks.
Please do keep ’em coming – it’s all getting a bit thin on the ground again this end.
And if you want to your start, on your very own layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.