Model railroad layouts plans

Ed has been in touch with some very clever model train wiring tips:

“Some Uses for old 9V batteries.

One of my favorite aspects of the Model Railroading community is the common desire to “Let nothing go to waste.”

I also love the fact that projects that are both innovative and money saving are made from items most people consider trash.

With that in mind, I offer a small tip.

Here is what I do with old 9V batteries (usually collected when I replace the batteries in my smoke alarms).

Note: Sorry for some of the blurry pics; but you should easily understand the concept.

Use needle-nosed pliers to start peeling the case.

Just peel back the case by rotating the pliers (sorry for blurry pic).

(Kind of reminds me how coffee cans were opened back when I was a kid)

Once the top portion is peeled back, the insides can be easily removed.

Of the four pieces, discard (recycle properly) the case and cells. Keep the connector & bottom insulator.

Different batteries use different techniques for their connectors. Below is one type of connector. At times, solder will not take to the metal strips.

Nevertheless, I have always been able to solder to the back of the connectors.

Note: solder quickly, as the plastic frame can easily melt.

Once wires have been soldered to the connectors, you can hot-glue the insulator (from the bottom of the 9V battery) to the back. You now have a connector suitable for 9V batteries.

Using these connectors, I have constructed several simple devices which serve as useful tools.

The best part is that these devices (tools) are powered by the 9V batteries that are too weak to power a normal device (such as a smoke alarm, or a multi-meter).

Some of these devices follow.

Below is a simple continuity checker. The light is an LED from an old Christmas light string. Underneath the top insulator is a low-watt resistor (1/6 or 1/8 W; most likely 220Ω). Make sure the polarity of the LED is correct before soldering & sealing the device.

Note: I put “white-out” on batteries that are at the end of their useful life (or, just write “LOW” in permanent marker). They are typically too low for the device from which I “rescue” them (the one in the picture is somewhere around 6V). Even so, the LED shines bright.

Here is a good reason for having a light vs beeping continuity checker. At times, I am up late working on a project. My wife, who has already gone to bed, does not take kindly to being woken by a beeping continuity checker.

I strongly believe the next device should be in every modeler’s tool box.

This is my version of a “track wiring checker”, which is no more than an audio continuity checker.

Having this checker saved me from making a track-wiring error that would have taken many hours to troubleshoot (story below the picture).

I made this by connecting a Piezo Electric Tone Buzzer Alarm and two alligator clip leads to a 9V connector (again, make sure the polarity is correct).

I had the alarm in my box of parts. Similar alarms are readily available from multiple interned outlets.

Use this device whenever you are soldering feeders from track to power bus. Once connected to the 9V battery, simply connect the alligator clips to the rails (one to each rail). If you happen to connect a track feed to the wrong power bus (opposite polarity), the alarm will immediately sound.

True story: Working way past my fatigue point, I pushed to finish soldering feeders to over 300 feet of track.

Sure enough, I connected the “A” track feeder to the “B” power bus. As soon as the feeder touched the bus, the alarm sounded. Of course I was startled; not so much by the alarm, but by the fact that I could make such a mistake on such a basic wiring job!

If not for the alarm, I would have soldered & insulated the connection. Of course, once I turned on power, my DCC command station breaker would have tripped & the alarm would be screaming “YOU BIG DUMMY” at me (my translation of the alarm sound). Fortunately, this simple device saved me from that indignation.

If I had made that error, I’m certain the subsequent procedure to find the “short” would have caused me to tear-up a large portion of my wiring project (perhaps even ruining some of my track-work as well). It would have been a frustrating few hours.

In the below device, I put the schematic on the cap (the insulating cap covers a small, low watt resistor). The resistor connects to the negative battery terminal clip, then to the green test lead.
The orange/yellow test lead connects to the positive battery terminal clip

Note: convention would have the resistor on the positive terminal; but electrons don’t care where the current limiting resistor is (I wired this up quickly many years ago).

I use this device to test an LED for both operation and polarity (especially for salvaged LED’s; something I love to do).

I also use this device to test LED modules I build (prior to connecting to permanent power). This device easily illuminates circuits containing several LEDs; even given the fact that power is supplied by a 9V battery at the end of its useful life.

Note: remember, for new LEDs, the longer lead connects to + side of power).

Ed”

A big thanks to Ed. Some very clever and resourceful stuff.

When it comes to wiring, I always think of Rob’s post:

Wiring your model railroad.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you send boredom packing and join in the fun, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

“Hi Alistair,

Here are some thoughts and pic’s on my N Gauge endeavours.

Having been 00 gauge in my youth and switched to N in my 20’s after marrying, I’ve now returned to modelling N in retirement.

I got ‘permission’ to have a fold-up 6’x4′ layout in a bedroom and started with a sketch of a twin figure of 8 folded back on itself with an inner ring and shunt yard.

I wanted to be able to run lots of loco’s as well as shunt, so I compromised on scenery to some extent.

I also chose to go DC as it was small and manageable. Having grandchildren, I wanted the station along the front edge for maximum ‘wow’.

I constructed a frame of 2x1s with a 5mm ply base covered in 8mm softboard (old school) as I love the ease with which it grips railway track nails! I’ve use Peco flex track everywhere other than points.

Build was going well until I got to testing track and realised a mega rooky mistake in choosing an incline which was too steep for some of my locomotives to pull long trains!

After carefully pulling up the inclines and extending them, I got something which worked fine and the rest is history as they say.

I’m now into scenery and telling the stories along the track, but I have a couple of tips which may be of use to others?

I encountered problems with the Peco linear motor surface levers jumping over the spigots on Peco points. I’ve used 2mm copper tubing cut to 4mm lengths and then slotted into the lever holes over the top of the point spigots.

I use Ultraviolet activated glue to fix collars in place, which also works very well to fill in small gaps in cut track (which is incredibly difficult to get exactly right lengths!) Just file gently any lumps – it works a treat.

Control is via Guagemaster 4 way controller and a points box also containing my 3v lighting supply for houses and all track lights.

Quick release connectors prevent me having to lift the controller up against the wall!”

Alan”

A big thank to Alan – he’s made a strong start there.

I know what he means when it comes to inclines, which is there are quite a few posts on the site about inclines. Bruce’s springs to mind:

How steep is too steep for your inclines

Also, I have no idea why but Alan’s layout reminded me of one of Bill’s posts simply because it’s all about making that start:

“Hi Al

I’ve taken some vacation and have been having fun adding more to my N scale layout.

Progress is being made and I’m having a lot of fun bringing it to life 😀 since my last submission I’ve gotten quite a bit more done.

I’ve added more trees and ground cover as well as taking some cheap eBay buildings I purchased and giving them new life with paint and weathering.

Take care and keep doing all the wonderful things you do for our hobby!

Bill

In Virginia”

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you make that start just like Alan, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Remember, it’s the start the stops most people… join in, you’ll have fun, I promise.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

Boyd’s been in touch. His retirement is going to consist of his model train hobby in the winter months, and my word, what a start:

“Hello Alastair,

Let me start by saying I enjoy your daily emails, and have drawn inspiration from the various layouts presented.

I have debated for a few months now whether to send in something from my own layout. There are 3 reasons really for my hesitation.

First, nothing I am doing is new, in fact some of it was picked up from your readers, some from reading anything could get my hands on, and much from watching countless YouTube videos.

Second, nothing I have done comes close to matching the many beautiful layouts I see in your daily mails.

And third, and this was the biggest stumbling block, despite how stunning many of the above mentioned layouts are, someone always has to find a reason to criticize them, and this really pisses me off.

The folks who submit their work are justifiably proud of it, I guess some people just aren’t happy unless they are miserable.

In the end though, I did decide to send you a note, because simply put, it is my railroad, I will do it as I like, and I really don’t care if someone finds it not to their liking.

More importantly, I know how you like to encourage folks to get a start, so if I, someone with no previous experience, can spur on even one person to give it a go, then it is worth it. Please see fit to use any, all or none of this correspondence.

The back story is pretty simple. Unlike many of your readers I did not have a model railroad as a kid, but I always had an interest.

As I approached retirement, I decided I needed a hobby for the Winter months, so decided it was a good time to get a start on a layout.

Since these questions always come up, I should have mentioned……HO scale, layout occupies a space 12X15 feet.

My layout is not prototypical, it is not meant to be, and never will be. It is a hobby that I can share with my grandkids, and can get enjoyment from as I progress and learn new things.

For now, they are of an age where they just enjoy watching the trains run, but there will be plenty of opportunities for operations as well for their and my enjoyment.

With the exception of a few kits and figures to get started, everything will be home made, trees, flock, buildings, etc.

Going into it I envisioned it to be an 8–10-year project to get the basics in, and as we all know, it will never be completely finished.

Because I wanted to fit in as much as I could in my designated space, and really had no idea how to best do this, I did get assistance with the track plan.

After several configurations, I settled on what is surely an ambitious plan for a novice, but full speed ahead. There will be a gravel company and logging industry on the upper layer, a port area, yard, industrial area and small town on the lower level.

I am 14 months into it now, working mostly in the winter months a few hours at a time.

Here are a few pics showing how I progressed.

Boyd”

Blank slate, track plan on the wall:

Mapping the track plan:

First piece of benchwork:

Getting there:

Starting scenery:

Gravel Company scene nearly complete.

Future logging area:

A huge big thanks to Boyd for sharing this.

I love what he has done, but I loved his narrative even more.

I totally subscribe to his point of view. As the saying goes, “If you can’t say anything nice, don’t saying anything at all”…

I do concede there is a place for constructive criticism, and I’m all for that.

Unfortunately though, every so often a comment that shouldn’t slip through, does.

For this I can only apologise, I do my best.

I manually approve the comments so the site doesn’t get overun with bots and other bad stuff.

I remember once a very ill worded comment got published one bleary eyed Sunday morning.

Fortunately one of you lovely lot mailed me and I was able to remove it.

Anyhow, back to Boyd.

I know what he means about the comments, and I hate to think it stops people sending their layouts in.

He words it perfectly:

“Simply put, it is my railroad, I will do it as I like, and I really don’t care if someone finds it not to their liking.”

Amen to that. Your layout. Your rules.

That’s all this time folks. Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.

Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the Silly Discount bundle.