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O guage layouts – Steve’s

Steve’s added to the O guage layouts on the blog:

“Al,

Thought people might be interested in some progress pictures of my O gauge layout.

Each “section” has some family meaning, ie. the town replicates where my kids were born, a building like my first job, our ski vacations, my son the Fireman, etc.

I tried to incorporate some cool ideas I saw on various layouts you’ve show us:

Wooden Truss Bridge, Automatic Gateman, A Drive-In Theater using a photo frame, a Smoking BBQ Joint with BBQ scented smoke, and a Trolly.

Next there will be a building on Fire using a Seuthe smoke generator and fire lighting from Evan Designs.

In hindsight, my biggest recommendations regard wiring and initial track layout.

First, since I had both O and 027 I used both – don’t – use one of the other. Makes life easier, joints tighter, and computer design more accurate.

Second, use isolated bus lines for each Isolated Track Section and the Turnout Switches (which I did), BUT also run individual bus lines for: Static lighting like in Buildings, another for Operating Accessories, another for Smoke Units, and another for future expansion options.

And Absolutely use tape to color code each bus Line and their dropdowns from the accessory, turnout, etc

Anyway. here are some progress pictures

Steve”

“Hi Al, this is a reply to Tom’s post on using spray foam from a can. It works extremely well and very easy to use. I also used a wire brush to rough up the surface a bit. Trestle bridge removed for photo purposes.
Cheers

Brian”

A big thanks to Steve for adding to the O guage layouts on the blog. I do love hearing your tips and seeing the progress of a layout.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And don’t forget, the Beginner’s Guide is here and ready to help you every step of the way.

Best

PS More HO scale train layouts here if that’s your thing.

Need buildings for your layout? Have a look at the Silly Discount bundle.

John’s layout in the making

“I think the best thing I’ve found for creating varying ground levels is the insulating foam that comes in a can.

I’m not talking about large mountains here, but just easy undulating terrain. Just spray a glob of the stuff where you want a rise in the terrain, or a low ridge or a crevasse, and let it dry.

Now take a box knife or a sharp razor saw and carve the insulation into the general shape you want. Then fill the holes and gaps that appear with ordinary spackling or wallboard putty.

Again, let it dry, sand the surface to the smoothness you want, and paint with the color of your surrounding terrain. Before the paint dries, dribble on some sand or kitty litter to simulate loose turf or small gravel and rocks, add a little colored lichen or ground foam here and there as needed, and you’re done. And if you want to add trees, just stick the trunk support into the foam with a little Elmer’s glue.

Tom”

“I had a late friend, Jim Brennan who now is past. He owned a hobby and train store in Ohio. The one trick he used was to save all his old thinner from cleaning his brushes. He would use it to color the plaster rocks and scenery on his layout. No extra cost but the results were terrific. Keep up the good work. Your hints and ideas are great.

Bill”

“I have been constructing four track figure eight layout with separate morley controls for each track I run both DCC and DC engines and it give me a chance to give each engine a good long run either pulling a train ,double heading fast or the very slow running there is just track no points or crossings .The track base is particle board 20mm cut to 300mm wide covered with a black netting to lower the noise of running.

John”

I’m intrigued by John’s pics – there seems to be a lot of space and track going on in the background. His track reminded my of Barry’s impressive helix layout too. If you have the golden key have a look. Can’t wait to see it finished too.

Thanks to everyone. Please keep ’em coming.

Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.

Best

Andrew’s girder bridge

“Hi Al. I been trying to weather this old locomotive. Im new at weathering and need lot’s to learn. So only way is try it and then ask other’s for there opinion .

I did a brown acrylic crafter’s paint along time ago and found it was t0o brown. This is my learning stage of weathering. I noticed how coffee get’s when you leave a little on the bottom of your cup and air evaporates the water. The coffee thicken’s to a nasty brown sludge. I painted coffee in different area’s of the locomotive . Place’s where rust or corrosion would take more of a hold. Then I let dry and added more cold coffee to the same spot’s.

The coffee started to sort of layer on it. Then I took crushed brown chalk and went over all the area’s . I will add moss and such to crack’s and corner’s dirt as well. I will paint the wheels black as pure iron doesn’t rust like the rest. The locomotive will be set in a diorama of a swamp and very wet scene and almost sunk in it.

So just wanted your opion and if you think other’s would like to see and give there’s as well. It be a learning thing from other’s who know how to do weathering. so go ahead and put on the net. Unless you think it’s to crappy a job wont hurt my feeling’s. thank’s Al.

Kim”

“Hi Al

Do you remember the BIC razor Bridge some month ago? Well I though as I wanted to do an up and down rail I would redesign the Bridge, so I scratch built a new Bridge, as I was a Royal Engineer and put my skills to work.

It’s a fairly big Bridge, spanning 100mm width and Heigh with a massive 1 meter length.

So here are my pictures to show all. Can’t wait to redesign my layout now!

Andy”