Small gauge railroad

John’s been back in touch with an update on his small gauge railroad: the Breccia Light Tramway.

And my word, what a project!

“Some dreams take a while.

When I was 13 years of age I dreamed of having a railroad in my back yard. I did get about 20 feet down but that was as far as it got.

Five decades have passed now, half a century, and that childhood dream is coming true.

About two years ago I made the commitment to move from Southern California to Northern Nevada. I found a property that I could afford at the edge of nowhere and made the purchase.

The area was one my wife and I dreamed of retiring to when we found it on our honeymoon. Alas I lost her in January of 2020: That and other life events in early 2020 encouraged me to leave the stress filled urban life behind and retire early.

The purchase was completed in August of 2020 and I purchased some temporary panel track for my outdoor railroad that November of 2020.

The panel track was an important planning aid and I still use it when I need to test an idea or two.

mini gauge temporary track

digging for mini gauge temporary track

After the panel track had convinced me that my ideas were not quite as daft as one might think, I decided it was time for real track to replace the panel track.

Rail and ties/sleepers were purchased from Allen Models of Nevada. The manufacturer of the ties (also the switches/turnouts/points) is a company called Accu-Tie.

The ties are designed to hold the rail in gauge (7.5 inches). Their switch kits are precision engineered and go together very nicely — Yes, they do make things for 7.25 inch gauge as well.

The first purchases of the Accu-Tie products were made in January of 2021.

laying track

mini gauge switches

mini gauge laying track

One of the the challenges of building my railway has been that the “flat” piece of property that I purchased isn’t.

I was used to the California definition of “flat”. By Nevada standards my property is “flat” even though it slopes substantially from the upper Northeast corner to the lower Southwest corner.

The geography of my property has meant a lot of digging and fill work. This is all done by the work crew of me, myself, and I.

All the earth work has been done by pick, shovel, and wheelbarrow. No heavy machinery has been employed.

I might mention that the soil has a lot of rocks in it. Fortunately what I call “rocks” qualify as pebbles when compared to other rocks on properties nearby.

I also made a screen to separate the larger rocks from the dirt I use for ballast.

moving earth for mini railway

ballasting for ride on railway

From the beginning, one purpose for my tramway has been to help me maintain my property.

Although I use the wheelbarrow a lot, the railway has moved its fair share of rock and dirt as well.

The line is unique in that it will soon have three turning wyes but no “run arounds”. This odd arrangement has been driven by the slope of the property.

The first of the three turning wyes went in around March/April of 2021. It was put in specifically to turn carloads of dirt and rock as I was moving the stuff from an area with too much dirt to an area I needed to fill.

I have done my best to keep the grades at 1.5%. While on a small gauge layout that seems gentle, it is a remarkably stiff grade when real dirt is being hauled and the load can weigh over 200 pounds.

moving earth mini gauge

moving earth small gauge


Most of the early work was done in 2021 with me only visiting the property either one or two weekends a month.

Some ideas worked short term and some had their own season. I had planned to use one shed for equipment storage as an example. The door to that shed made using it difficult so that was very short term.

Also the shed began to be filled with stuff I had in storage down in California.

Another idea was a track through my carport. The slope of the floor of the carport made that spur a challenge after a while and it was rationalized once I had cleared a space for a yard. Even the yard has changed a bit over time.

laying mini gauge track

laying small gauge track

By September of 2021 I had about 300 feet of track on the ground. As part of that track there were eight switches.

One of my goals for the line was to be able to take my trash/rubbish to the front of the property. That was about 200 feet from the end of track at the time.

There is a mostly dry creek that runs through the middle of the property. It is a dry creek except when it isn’t. When the creek is running it can have a fair amount of water in it. A bridge was a necessity.

This was my first bridge and was constructed in September of 2021.

As of June 30, 2022 there are now seven bridges on my railroad.

bridge for mini gauge railroad

bridge for small gauge railroad

Once the bridge was in I could grade to the front of the property.

My second turning wye went in just past the bridge. With the second wye in place I could run wye to wye, fun.

While I had constructed a “locomotive”, it had some issues (I didn’t know it at the time but there was a warp in the frame.

Another issue was that I graded the line quickly and while it looked flat enough, there was a bit of 2% that I have since corrected.

I mention these little errors for two reasons, they happened and they are an opportunity to share a lesson in learning. We learn more from our errors than our successes.

In September of 2021 I also picked up a steam engine for my line. It needs some work but the price was right.

In October of 2021 I picked up an engine kit from Plum Cove. This became the motive power for the present.

mini gauge switches

small gauge laying track

A little more of the line to the front of the property.

This track was in by the end of November 2021. With the roadbed graded I did put down 100 feet of track in one day.

November 2021 was also when I began living at the Nevada home full time.

In December it snowed.

laying track small gauge

snow on the line mini gauge railroad

In February I ended up with the dreaded disease that shall not be named. All work slowed. As soon as I was out of quarantine I began on the railroad again.

I was able to cross the driveway and start working on “the big fill”.

This was the point that I could begin to see that the loop part of the line would be finished ahead of schedule.

I had originally thought the loop would take until September due to the amount of earth that needed to be moved and the bridge that needed to be built.

mini gauge railroad laying track

small gauge railroad laying track

I worked daily on the fill, I could only move about five wheelbarrow loads of dirt per day. I also raided the roadside for “a few” large rocks. The rocks meant less dirt to move.

This is what things looked like at the beginning of June 2022. One might notice that while the track may span the gap, something is clearly missing!

building bridge for mini gauge railroad

building bridge for small guage railroad

This is the highest bridge on the line and the one built with the heaviest timbers.

There is a lot of extra timber directly under the track as this is the longest unsupported span on the line.

bridge for mini gauge railroad

bridge for small gauge railroad

Presently I have two locomotives on the line that are worthy of being photographed.

The Plum Cove electric has a new body on it. I built this new body to fit my larger sized equipment.

My name for this locomotive is the Washoe Zephyr; It goes like the wind if I let it.

The video of the tine was shot from this unity with a GoPro camera clamped to the back of the roof.

The other locomotive is an Allen Models Chloe based on Ward Kimball’s locomotive of the same name that is now at the museum in Perris California.

I acquired the locomotive second hand and it does need some plumbing work done before it can be operated safely.

While I am doing the plumbing, I intend to replace the boiler jacket and the cab.

She will be renamed but I have not decided if she will be Nani (Beautiful) or Wahine (lady). Both names are Hawaiian.

small gauge loco

mini gauge loco

Some may be wondering what the trackplan of the Breccia Light Tramway looks like.

Well the railroad is not finished yet and a few changes are still taking place. All to the good.

Here is a trackplan of the railway as it currently is. The line in red is still under construction and already there is a revision.

In the plan I prepared about a month ago when someone asked me what the railroad looked like I planned a small yard on the north side of my Conex storage container. Because my planning was done with the panel track that has a 30 foot radius but the track I am laying has rail curved for 32 foot radius, changes happen.

The line that is on the north side of the container will now be on the south side.

There are several benefits to this change: the first benefit is that I do not need to go to a tighter radius!

The second benefit is that it will be easier to roof this over to provide storage protected from the snow.

The third benefit will be that this can be extended into creating a longer loop for operation.

Should I choose, the longer loop that is possible would give me several new choices to keep operation interesting.

It is all a work in progress.

mini gauge track plan

Hope you have enjoyed the story so far.

Best,

John”

A huge big thank you to John, and I hope you enjoyed his small gauge railroad as much as me.

If you missed his cab ride video, it’s here.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.


Making a Helix for your railroad

If you’ve ever pondered over making a helix for your layout, Lawrence has shared some good advice:

“Hi Al

I love to wake up each morning and receive an email that you pass on with some ones special layout, Thanks.

This email is basically about building my dual helix. I have added my track plan below showing the DCC section of my layout.

I have completed and tested all the runs (each run is at 4”, 7” and 10” off the table top) except for the two helixes and the bridge between them.

The idea is that all three tracks will enter one helix, cross the bridge and exit the other helix.

track plan for helix

The helix will connect to the three separate levels the trains run on.

I built the helix platform four inches above the rest of the HO layout to match the first DCC height run. My HO layout is directly above the O scale layout so I was not able to put a center hole in the helix platform.

On the platform I drew line corner to corner and side to side on card stock that covered the platform. With a ruler from the center (one inch on the ruler) I drew two circles.

The other holes on the ruler were one inch less than the 24” radius and one inch more then the 28” radius. Cutting out the one quarter of the circle on the card stock I have my pattern for making all the one quarter pieces for all the rings.

Displayed below in the next two pictures is the pattern and the first ring of wood cut out (P.S. the second picture shows the top of the O scale lift bridge). I was able to cut out eight, one quarter pieces from each one-half inch sheet of plywood, or two rings.

helix circle

helix template

To make the helix I decided to use upright stanchions with aluminum bases for the ring plywood.

From my ring diagram I labeled each stanchion and marked off how high the top of the bent one eight inch (just a hammer in a vice, easy) was to be. I used a seven inch inside width on the aluminum to ensure train clearance.

brackets for helix

As I have stated in a previous email all my DCC tracks run at three different levels. The DC track runs on the main base. This is displayed in the next picture.

levels for Helix

There are eight stanchion pairs per helix. The stanchion pairs assembled and mounted on the platforms are displayed in the next picture. The first ring and most of the second ring is also displayed.

Notice two tracks entering the helix. Because of that the 4-inch track enters the helix at the base of the platform.

The 7-inch track enters the helix enters at the second ring.

The 10-inch track enters the helix on the third ring.

The first ring only has one track so the extra space is treated as part of the layout and receives grass and trees.

The second ring has two tracks and had a small space that will receive grass and bushes.

The next picture displays the trains from the three levels entering one helix.

making a helix

I am not able to put a center hole in either helix as they are directly above the O scale track. What to do?

One helix center has a Ren Faire in progress with jousting. The other helix has two farms, one for cattle and one for crops.

making a helix

making a helix

The next picture shows how I move the bus wire around the layout. The connectors displayed are called Lever Nuts.

Three position lift up levers to accept wires from 14 to 26 awg. One lever nut for positive and one for negative.

When possible the bus wire is run between the uprights to where ever needed for connection to the tracks. Thus, all my wiring is on the table top and bending or crawling beneath the layout.

wiring for helix

Where I have to run the bus wire where it is not between standup, it is run next to a train track and covered with ballast.

The ballast I use is crushed walnut shells, it is course and has a brown color (I like the looks when it is in place and dried after the alcohol and Mode Podge (one to three mix with water).

I bought a 25-pound box walnut shells at Harbor Freight for $27 and have filled 30 of the standard size ballast containers and have not reached the bottom of the box yet.

The Mode Podge goes a lot further then the Scenic Cement and works just as well.

ballast for helix

At the present I am working on the third ring. The next picture displays the three rings with one track, two tracks, and three tracks.

The third ring through the seventh ring uses the complete width for the three tracks.

making a helix three layers

The last picture further displays the three rings and where I have gotten at this point.

On the far left of the picture the bus wires are raised up to the next ring for the feeder wire connection to the track.

As each ring is added track the trains are run back and forth. This is repeated a number of times after the ballasting.

Thanks

Lawrence of Madison Virginia”

A big thanks to Lawrence for sharing his experiences for making a helix.

There’s been a quite a few posts on the subject over the years.

Gary’s helix springs to mind.

And Doug’s Helix.

That’s all for today folks.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.


Detecting trains – Steve shows us how

Steve’s been in touch – have a look at his way for detecting trains:

“Hi Al,

Detecting trains on the layout can be very useful.

I Just thought I might share this little trick that I have developed. It is a simple, cheap, and very reliable method using just 3 resistors.

I use this method to:

    To operate a crossing

    A train position indicator

    Signalling

    To activate an announcement or sound

The advantages of this circuit are:

    Cheap and easy to build

    Works with any power mode, DC, DCC, battery etc

    Can work with any power supply

    Output can be adjusted to interwork with any other device

    Small current drain

Take two ‘light dependent resistors’.

One is placed under the track (r2), and the other (r1) is placed anywhere alongside the track. Connect the resistors together.

Connect voltage to the other side of r1. Connect the centre contact of a 50k variable resistor (trimpot, r3) the other side of r2.

Connect 0v to one side of r3. Adjust r3 to achieve the required output voltage from the centre connector.

All of these devices are simple, cheap, and can be obtained from any electronics retailer, or ebay.

The circuit is:

detecting trains block circuit

At normal, the three resistors make up a voltage divider, so that the output from r3 can be adjusted as required.

When a train passes over r1, its resistance goes much higher, reducing the output.

This output can then be used for almost any other circuit via transistor, microprocessor, LED etc.

detecting trains block voltage

The values of r1 and r2 were 2k at normal (4.5k when dark), but nearly any approximate value will work because r3 is used to obtain whatever value you require.

R2 is essential as it acts as a compensator for varying light conditions around the layout, or for night time running. If the light level alters, both r1 and r2 will change at a similar rate. This keeps the voltage divider ratios about equal.

For DC users, the voltage onto R1 could be taken from the NORTH rail (positive), and ov from SOUTH rail. But output will always depend on the input voltage. So a train moving slowly will not provide 12v (more like 6v). Also, a train moving in reverse will provide a different output.

Regards

Steve (Sydney)”

Clever stuff from Steve when it comes to detecting trains.

And now on to a subject I’m very keen on: making a start!

“Hello Al,

We finally made a start on the layout.

I love reading your post and your latest hall of fame inductees are well deserving, so congrats to the dynamic duo.

We decided to use RRinabox for the modules and then we have kit bashed it to redesign the extra track…our oldest son has gotten involved and he is way smarter than us. So it may get to suffisticated for Vicki and I to run.

There are 3 continuous loops that we can switch and run a train from outside upper loop all the way to inside lower loop and back out.

Its kind of cool and takes about 18 minutes with some operations of manually switching turnouts and crossovers.

The layout is currently 42″ x 96″ and we do have a plan to later add another module for the saw mill.

That’s all for now and we will send more pictures as we progress.

Your Texas fans,
Sid and Vicki”

model railroad track


“Hello Alastair,

The pictures show a load of lumber (HO) that I made from ice cream sticks. They are glued together and thin brown wires were used for tie-downs.

Guenter”

ho scale lumber

HO scale lumber

I kiked Guenter’s lumber trucks – simple but effective, like most of your wonderful tips and pics.

Lastly, a question from John which I thought worth posting, as I’m sure it would help others in the interest of making a start:

“Alastair, I have been a member so to speak for several years and I have finally acquired a room for a layout.

For me when I say “just starting out” I mean it.

Haven’t built a layout for several years due to lack of space. DCC, which is what I want, is new to me and my question to you is: what do I start with?

I am working on a 8X10 HO layout to begin with. Engines, cars, track, switches etc.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have really appreciated your work on the blog and all of the additional comments made by so many people.

Sincerely,

John “Red Label” Walker”

Please do leave a comment below if you can help.

A big thanks to Steve, Sid and Vicki.

All these years in and it’s still wonderful to see your solutions to specific problems.

And of course, it’s great to see those ‘starts’ because that’s where the magic is.

That’s all for the this time.

Please do keep ’em coming.

And if today is the day you get started on your layout, the Beginner’s Guide is here.

Best

Al

PS Latest ebay cheat sheet is here.